Differential Shop for Pinion Seal Replacement?

[Nick1994]

I looked under my Jeep and noticed my front (Dana 30) pinion seal is leaking. I had a differential shop replace the bearings and axle tube seals almost 3 years and 7k miles ago. I can't remember if they did the pinion or not, they probably did.

Wondering if this is more of a specialty job that I should take it to a differential shop or if any regular mechanic shop could do it? I know there's crush sleeves and stuff, not sure I want to do it myself and either get stuck or mess it up and have problems later on down the road.

 

[atikovi]

Guess they used a $2 Chinese seal? If it can be popped out without removing the pinion, it should be a DIY job.

 

[benjy]

depending on how good or NOT your mechanic is! just had a complete clutch job on my 2011 Nissan Frontier by my good + fair priced indy, $400 labor + i bought the single mass flywheel etc from a specialty shop!

 

[Gimpy1]

Diffs required specialty tools and people that know what they are doing. IMHO I think you will be better served going to a diif place. They will know which seals work andwhich are junk. Look in some of the jeep forums and see what places they use/recommend

 

[mk378]

Is there any side play in the shaft? That would mean more than just seal replacement.

 

[2EHA]

it's not hard as long as you don't crush the already crushed crush sleeve. this is what blue loctite is for

 

[sloinker]

Pull the yoke, pry out the seal, clean with emery cloth until mirror smooth all sealing surfaces, lube with white grease, install new seal, re-install yoke, torque to spec's. The worst that can happen is another leaking seal and the $5-$30 cost. You didn't mention any odd noises or vibrations so it may be a cheap fix. The crush sleeve, if used, has already been crushed and created the proper space, if they are using spacers it amounts to the same thing. Getting the proper torque may present a challenge in keeping the front end from rotating.

 

[Lubener]

Not too difficult to change the seal. You will need a precision (w/dial gauge)1/4 inch drive torque wrench to verify/set the preload, around 8-16 inch lbs with drums or calipers removed. A 1/2 drive torque wrench to torque the pinion nut to specs ( around 150 -175 ft lbs) so that you can begin tweeking the nut until you get the preload set. I would measure the preload first before you loosen the pinion nut. A shop manual will help so you can know exactly what the preload and torque specs are. Depending where it originally was set, you may not have to worry about a new crush washer. Hopefully your pinion bearing is ok.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

If you have the correct tools and knowledge, by all means do it yourself.
If you have the money to have it done let a differential ONLY shop do it.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I’d try to do it on your own. Just take the yoke off and get a seal puller or even a flat head screwdriver or pick and pop the seal out and put the new one in.

 

[Lyman]

Not too difficult to change the seal. You will need a precision (w/dial gauge)1/4 inch drive torque wrench to verify/set the preload, around 8-16 inch lbs with drums or calipers removed. A 1/2 drive torque wrench to torque the pinion nut to specs ( around 150 -175 ft lbs) so that you can begin tweeking the nut until you get the preload set. I would measure the preload first before you loosen the pinion nut. A shop manual will help so you can know exactly what the preload and torque specs are. Depending where it originally was set, you may not have to worry about a new crush washer. Hopefully your pinion bearing is ok.

This is the correct method.

 

[dfarr67]

I had the seal changed on a Toyota- a month later the diff was making funny noises. Should have just kept on top of the leak. Car was scraped.

 

[Fattylocks]

I did a Ford 8.8" not to long ago. Very tricky to tap in straight. For me anyway. Still leaked. Did it a second time, this time I bought the expensive and hard to find Rotunda seal driver. Seal went in like it was buttered. Still leaked. Took it to the dealer. They found the pinion bearing was shot and kept taking out the seal.

 

[MCompact]

I went to my dealer to have the pinion seal on the 318ti replaced. It wasn’t that expensive and I know the seal used wasn’t a cheap knockoff.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

I would just take it to a shop if you don’t have the correct tools. I replaced a leaker on my Toyota, fixed the leak but made noise and very slight vibration after. Probably the crush spacer not wanting to be reused.

 

[Nick1994]

I called the differential shop that did it, I'll take it in next week. But this time I'm buying the seal at the dealership for them to use.

 

[Lubener]

I called the differential shop that did it, I'll take it in next week. But this time I'm buying the seal at the dealership for them to use.

Atleast you know you are using a good seal. Problem is if it starts leaking again, the shop will probably not have a warranty and you are on your own if you supply part.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I know you said the shop that set it up originally is going to fix it ...


You can DIY. Technically if you want to do it right, yes, you'll have to pay a shop to pull the entire differential apart then set up the preload, shim the pinion ... you're looking at $500 at least in labor.

The high pinion dana 30 does not use a crush sleeve. I've had a few of these break the yoke or shear the bolts off in the yoke and have had to replace the yoke entirely. While it's not "proper" , count the threads and back it off. It's going to be a real BEAR to get that off.

Once the nut is off, a few tippy taps with a small hammer and the yoke will come off. Then you can pull and replace that seal.

Putting back on, apply some RTV to the back and slide it on, also make sure you get it in as far as it was when it came out and tighten as much as you can with a 1' ratchet. You won't be able to overighten it, and if you get the threads exactly where they were when it came off, it'll be fine.

 

[Nick1994]

I know you said the shop that set it up originally is going to fix it ...


You can DIY. Technically if you want to do it right, yes, you'll have to pay a shop to pull the entire differential apart then set up the preload, shim the pinion ... you're looking at $500 at least in labor.

The high pinion dana 30 does not use a crush sleeve. I've had a few of these break the yoke or shear the bolts off in the yoke and have had to replace the yoke entirely. While it's not "proper" , count the threads and back it off. It's going to be a real BEAR to get that off.

Once the nut is off, a few tippy taps with a small hammer and the yoke will come off. Then you can pull and replace that seal.

Putting back on, apply some RTV to the back and slide it on, also make sure you get it in as far as it was when it came out and tighten as much as you can with a 1' ratchet. You won't be able to overighten it, and if you get the threads exactly where they were when it came off, it'll be fine.

They told me $145 to replace the seal. 3 years ago it was $660 for all new bearings and seals.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

If they're only charging $145 then they're just doing what I listed above and not checking preload / lash , depth. Which is fine, I've done it a bunch of times without issue