Anything I should know before bleeding.....

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
40,490
Location
NY
I want to bleed the brakes on my 08 Jeep to replace with fresh fluid. I was going to do the traditional 2 man method. Do I have to be concerned with the ABS system? I don't want to trigger a brake light.

Or can I just attach a hose to the bleeder, submerge it into a container with clean fluid and just open the bleeder and gravity bleed each wheel w/o stepping on the brake? I don't mind if it takes longer to do.

The last thing I want to do is create a problem I don't have. Go easy this is the first vehicle I've owned with this type of ABS system.

As always TIA!
 
That's the way i would do it.I would remove as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir beforehand and refill before opening any bleeder.
Don't worry about the hose being covered if your just going to let it drip.

Do one at a time and just before closing the bleeder have someone push the pedal down very slowly before locking the bleeder down.Lock the bleeder down when the pedal hits about half way down.
 
Thanks! I'm not looking for problems I just want to replace fluid.

I have fluid from a caliper I replaced about 6 months ago in my Aerostar, the container was opened then sealed up. Can that be used up, or is it best to start with a fresh quart? I figure about 2 qts +/- is needed for the job, I have a pint remaining from that caliper job.
 
Either way will work. Basically, as long as the ABS system is not active, such as when you have the engine off and are just bleeding brakes, the secondary (ABS) circuit inside the ABS valve body is isolated from the primary circuit and it is just the same as bleeding a non-ABS vehicle. So 2-man or ole gravity bleed...take your pick. The fluid just goes straight through the ABS valve block during bleeding. There will remain a tiny bit of old brake fluid trapped inside the ABS unit secondary circuit until the first time it activates and mixes with the new fluid in the primary circuit- no big deal. At least you are getting mostly new fluid in the system!

I have a customer with a low mileage 95 840i, and we had never done any brake work on it since I started working on his cars a few years ago. He was out driving one day sort of pushing things a bit from traffic light to traffic light, trying to get to Fed-Ex before they closed to pick up his new phone, when he completely lost his brakes and nearly rear-ended another car. He called me all upset and asked me if he was going to need a master cyl or something. I asked him when he had flushed the brake fluid last and he said it never been done. Well, I told him to let things cool down and his brake pedal pressure eventually came back and he drove it home carefully. I guess it had so much moisture in the fluid that the boiling point had been reduced a lot. We flushed the brake system soon after when he brought it in for an oil change.

He had previously questioned a few weeks before when we did pads and rotors on his 98 325i, when I said that the brake system needed a complete flush to renew the fluid. He told me he did not know that was ever needed and had never had anyone mention that before. I guess he forgot that we had also bled the fluid on the 98 740i a couple years ago when all the brakes were replaced. After his close call, he had no doubt that the fluid should be replaced at least every time the brake pads are changed.
 
Since the can was sealed, I would not hesitate to use it up. Sounds like you are replacing the fluid regularly anyway. If it was from 5 or 10 years ago, then I would start with a fresh can.
 
Because you do not have the bottle full, there is air in it. It had moisture which is now in the remaining fluid. A new bottle costs $1.99 Why do you want to use the opened bottle? In an emergency, it would be OK but not for preventive maintainance.

Have you noticed how an opened and half finished tub of ice cream in your freezer have icicles in it?

By the way, gravity bleeding is the best method. My mechanic did on my older car and the pedal feel became the best I had ever experienced.

- Vikas
 
Last edited:
I have no problem tossing the open bottle, I have 2 sealed quarts. I thought it would be OK to flush the open bottle through first, I'll toss it instead. Thanks
 
First, make sure you have the correct fluid for you ABS system. Sometimes they need a thin type - something special.
Then soak the bleeders a day before you try to loosen them [PB Blaster, etc].

Your biggest fear should be the other person in the two man bleed!
By far the biggest cause of screw ups.

Honest to goodness, go get a vacuum Mity Vac or a cheap knock off. Useful for all sorts of things - not just bleeding.
It is so easy it it ridiculous - just keep your reservoir full!

Back to the ABS. Sometimes you need to stomp on the brakes 50 times to allow bleeding, or a special dealer tool may be needed.
You can 'trick' the system by having the key on and rotating one wheel [in the air] to activate the ABS.

Usually, you can just bleed them normally with no regard. But it is worth it to check up on your specific system.
 
With the 2 man bleed you just have to make sure he does not kill the master cyl by pushing the pedal too far down. also he needs to wait you to tell him to release the pedal after you close the bleeder. My wife knows the " press.. Hold ....Release " instructions all too well!!!
 
I've done it many times with my wife, on non ABS systems, or rear ABS systems vintage 1993. This 08 will be the newest. I don't think I want to tempt fate here. I might just crack open one bleeder at a time and let gravity do the bleeding while I watch the MC fluid level. I'll have a block of wood under the brake pedal. When I see about a pint of fluid in the collection jar, have my assistant press the brake pedal down, hold it when it bottoms out on the block of wood lock the bleeder down and move to the next wheel. I don't think I'm going to trigger an ABS light doing it this way. I hope:)

I plan on getting a Mity Vac fluid extractor with the brake bleeder, but at the moment money is tight again. Being self-employed sucks at times.

Last time I looked I was unable to locate a shop manual for an 08 Jeep Liberty.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2

Honest to goodness, go get a vacuum Mity Vac or a cheap knock off. Useful for all sorts of things - not just bleeding. It is so easy it it ridiculous - just keep your reservoir full!

I agree, I used both MityVac and Motive Bleeder and MityVac is so easy to use without the brake bleeder adapter, I sold the Motive Bleeder and keep the MityVac for changing oil, PSF, ATF ... and bleed the brake.

demarpaint, when you buy MityVac don't buy the brake bleeder adapter, there is no need to spend $20-25 for it. All you need is a flexible tube that can be connected to the bleeder screw without leak, connect that tube to the main tube of the MityVac then you're in business to do the bleeding. You should have that flexible tube already when you do the gravity bleeding.
 
I have a mityvac but rarely use it for brakes,not that it isnt a great tool but i like it for other things.I either gravity bleed or use my scan tool on cars than can be triggered.The way you intend doing it sounds optimal to me,you wont have any problems at all.
Ditch the opened brake fluid,it has moisture from the air already in it.
 
Thanks for saving me the cash on the bleeder kit HTSS_TR! Trav I'll ditch the opened container of brake fluid.
thumbsup2.gif


Any idea what size tubing I'll need? I plan on picking it up tomorrow, I have 1/4" clear fuel line ~ 1.5' of it will that do?
 
1'8" is more like it [internal]. 1/4 will leak if you are pressure/vacuum bleeding.
For gravity bleeding, you are only directing fluid away from parts and into the jar.
Gravity bleeding IS pressure bleeding, just with less pressure!
If you can, suck out the old fluid in the reservoir first, and refill with fresh before you start your bleeding.
And make sure to keep open the reservoir to aid the flow.
 
Well my wife is busy tomorrow, and my buddy is not available. I want to take advantage of the good weather, and the fact that I'm off.

I'm going to just suck as much fluid as I can from the MC w/o allowing any air into the brake lines. Pump the pedal a few times, and crack open the RR bleeder, let a pint run out, and close it. Got the the LR, RF, LF, and to the same thing. I can keep the MC topped up myself, I just won't be stepping on the brake. I have all day so time isn't a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
With the 2 man bleed you just have to make sure he does not kill the master cyl by pushing the pedal too far down.


What does this do? I've always had the person hold the pedal to the floor then close the bleeder.
 
Over travel of the seals is a possible problem.
They can go farther than they ever have or should, wearing them or disrupting particulate matter.
A block of wood or whatever under the pedal is an old standard.

I rarely use anything with a pedal pump bleed..
 
go to harbor freight and purchase a vacuum bleeder. best and safest way to bleed brakes. the 2 man method could be dangerous because you can blow the seals on the brake master cylinder if you push the brakes too far in..
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Over travel of the seals is a possible problem.
They can go farther than they ever have or should, wearing them or disrupting particulate matter.
A block of wood or whatever under the pedal is an old standard.

I rarely use anything with a pedal pump bleed..


I just drained 'some' fluid for basically an 'air out of lines' bleeding, not too long ago. I had a 2nd person hold the pedal and push it gently to the floor(careful not to let it raise back up) as I bled the line to each wheel. Did the same thing for the clutch, but had to perform the task by hand.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top