can't bleed clutch cylinder saab 9-3 2008 2.0t

[tookien]

I installed a new clutch with the slave cylinder.

Slave cylinder looks like this, the bottom right is where the bleed pipe goes.

I am trying to two-man method to bleed the clutch cylinder.

Initially after trying a few times it bleeds correctly (fluid and air come out), the clutch pedal gets harder after a few rounds then goes back down to the floor.

I saw that fluid was leaky through the transmission housing so remove it again to confirm, and there was fluid inside but could be incidental from some of the fluid during bleeding dripping through the disconnection valve.

The line that attaches to the slave cylinder (bottom right port) is installed securely, I reinstalled the bleed pipe again securely to the slave cylinder.

Not sure but there is a tiny port (relief valve?) on the other side of the slave cylinder that might have something to do with it, but I don't think so.
I didn't do anything with it, I just installed the part as it came.

Anyways, the bleed pipe looks like this

The other end goes to the disconnection valve that is on the outside of the transmission housing.

There is also the clutch hydraulic line. The o-ring initially looks fine, but I should I still replace it to confirm?

The two man bleeding method does seem to work but then fails later on, and clutch pedal becomes floppy again.


So either the two man bleeding just won't work in this case or there is really a leaky at the slave cylinder, or somewhere.


Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you

 

[Passport1]

My 2006 9-3 is an auto so I've never done this. Assuming all the connections are tight you might try to purge the system with a pressure bleeder.

 

[Trav]

You may need to vacuum bleed or reverse bleed the system, these things are notorious for being difficult to bleed. This is one reverse bleeder. Do not replace the o ring unless it is visibly damaged.

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[tookien]

Thanks. I will definitely look into those bleeder tools.


Does anyone know if I am able to bleed the slave cylinder without the bell housing being installed?

I want to do it that way to look inside while the bleeding is done to make sure it's not coming from the inside.

 

[Trav]

I don't believe you can other than possible putting it together to check for leaks then reinstall the sleeve back into the transmission housing. What parts other than the slave cylinder and clutch it self did you replace?
Are you bleeding it with no hose on the bleed nipple just cracking it open, it will spill down into the bell housing doing that.

 

[SHOZ]

I have one like that on my Gen Coupe. Pipe in but no exit, bleeder screw before it. I pre filled mine with brake fluid the last time before installing. Then it takes a lot of pedal pumping.

 

[14Accent]

The best way I found to bleed a those is to run a rubber line from the bleeder on the LF caliper to the bleeder on the clutch. Open both bleeders and SLOWLY press down the BRAKE pedal to the floor, which will push clean brake fluid back through the clutch slave sending the air bubbles up the the reservoir.

Once your helpers foot is on the floor, close the caliper bleeder then the clutch bleeder. Test for good clutch action and repeat as necessary.

 

[D60]

In a pinch I've reverse bled clutches with the syringes for my mtn bike disc brakes. "Not a joke. Not a joke."

On an '88 Ranger with internal slave the thing that worked best was JUST gravity bleed - no pumping at all.

Point is don't be afraid to try different techniques. Push fluid up (reverse bleed), gravity bleed (if it'll flow), vacuum bleed. You could also place a vacuum on it AND pump the pedal -- but watch the fluid level as it may drop quickly. One method will likely work better than the others.

 

[Kruse]

On an '88 Ranger with internal slave the thing that worked best was JUST gravity bleed - no pumping at all.

Possibly not able to be done with the subject vehicle , but sometimes with a Ranger, it’s best to do it hanging on the wall…before installing. Some Rangers can be tough to bleed.

 

[tookien]

it seems that the problem isn't the bleeding process itself, but the clutch master cylinder that has failed.

 

[tookien]

I don't believe you can other than possible putting it together to check for leaks then reinstall the sleeve back into the transmission housing. What parts other than the slave cylinder and clutch it self did you replace?
Are you bleeding it with no hose on the bleed nipple just cracking it open, it will spill down into the bell housing doing that.

I replaced the clutch and slave cylinder, that's it.

I double checked, everything is installed correctly at the slave cylinder, no leaks there.

And yes you're right it did spill down through the housing as I wasn't using a hose, it dripped a bit through the disconnection valve so this made it seem like it was leaking at the slave cylinder when it was not.

I cleaned all that up and reinstalled housing.

It seems the problem all along has been the clutch master cylinder, not the bleeding process.
I am 99% sure now but still going to diagnose it to confirm when I take it off.

The clutch was never replaced before the vehicle has about 180k on it, so the clutch was assumed as the culprit.

But when I took the old clutch out it didn't look too bad, definitely worn down but not completely.

The first time bleeding the slave cylinder the pedal was getting harder then it just fell down again.

This leads me to believe the seal on the inside of the clutch master cylinder slowly but surely failed completely especially with the demands of the new clutch.

Now when trying to bleed through various other bleeding methods not much fluid comes out it's just never ending air.

 

[someonesomewhere]

Honestly, it's best (imo) to replace all the clutch hydraulics at once. Especially on a vehicle with that age and mileage.