Conventional oil vs Synthetic oil for break-in

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Hi all,

I have been reading this forum for some time and there are alot of useful info. However I also find some very contradicting views.

It has been stated that doing 3k miles oci on conventional oil is as good as doing 10k miles oci on premium 100% synthetic oil. Both will protect the engine very well.

There are also views that doing 3k miles oci on synthetic may not have any extra protection over 3k miles oci on conventional.

That above being said, why is it that most people/manufacturers insist that synthetic is more slippery than conventional and thus not suitable for break-in of new engine? If this is true, it will only mean that conventional oils doing 3k miles oci causes more wear & tear than synthetic oils... And it contradicts with the above mentioned points.


Golden question? Do synthetic oils or convention oils have lower wear & tear rate over 3k mile oci?
If money is not an issue, can I use synthetic for break-in and drain after 1k miles?

Pls advise.
 
If it is his money let him do what he please.

I drained out my FF at 300 miles, another change at 500 miles, another change at 1600 miles, now I am doing 5K intervals as per the warranty.
-All drain/refills were penzoil dino. I am doing my 5K runs on 3qrts pen dino, 1.5qrts PP 5W30
 
I've been dumping my FF within 1,500 Miles. Then I get into the extended syn swings.
 
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That above being said, why is it that most people/manufacturers insist that synthetic is more slippery than conventional and thus not suitable for break-in of new engine? If this is true, it will only mean that conventional oils doing 3k miles oci causes more wear & tear than synthetic oils... And it contradicts with the above mentioned points.




Not sure, since lots of new cars come filled with synthetic oil right from the manufacturer.
 
Why your just wasting money...i went 5K on manufacture oil and changed it again at 9K for synthetic change.

+1
 
The issue is that you WANT wear while breaking in an engine, but you want engineered wear - hence the use of dino oil. You want the cylinder walls to wear just a touch, as the rings need to wear-into them to seat properly. Other parts need to wear off any casting imperfections as well, which dino oil will help with better than syn. Last thing you want is an engine that smokes like a chimney from worn valve guides and rings on a brand new motor.
 
Quote:


The issue is that you WANT wear while breaking in an engine, but you want engineered wear - hence the use of dino oil. You want the cylinder walls to wear just a touch, as the rings need to wear-into them to seat properly. Other parts need to wear off any casting imperfections as well, which dino oil will help with better than syn. Last thing you want is an engine that smokes like a chimney from worn valve guides and rings on a brand new motor.



Absolute hogwash. Show me any data to support anything you said. You cannot because it is total hogwash.
fruit.gif
 
If you have an engine that is perfectly designed, built, torqued, etc. you can go straight to synthetic, but that is rarely the real world, especially on rebuilds. When assembling an engine, you torque the rod and main bolts to where it is calculated that bearings will be perfectly round without turbulence in the oil flow. Breakin wears any of the non-round surfaces to eliminate whatever turbulence there would be.
Breakin also seats the sharp/thin edges of the cylinder honing against the new rings that are probably not perfect, especially in a rebuild.
I wish I had kept track of the number of people who have come to me with rebuilt engines that consumed oil but stopped after going to dino.
 
Quote:


If you have an engine that is perfectly designed, built, torqued, etc. you can go straight to synthetic, but that is rarely the real world, especially on rebuilds. When assembling an engine, you torque the rod and main bolts to where it is calculated that bearings will be perfectly round without turbulence in the oil flow.

Breakin wears any of the non-round surfaces to eliminate whatever turbulence there would be. Breakin also seats the sharp/thin edges of the cylinder honing against the new rings that are probably not perfect, especially in a rebuild.

I wish I had kept track of the number of people who have come to me with rebuilt engines that consumed oil but stopped after going to dino.




That's the sort of stuff I was taught, and it sounds so very logical and plausible. I wonder if this sort of issue can really be settled here.
 
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Quote:


The issue is that you WANT wear while breaking in an engine, but you want engineered wear - hence the use of dino oil. You want the cylinder walls to wear just a touch, as the rings need to wear-into them to seat properly. Other parts need to wear off any casting imperfections as well, which dino oil will help with better than syn. Last thing you want is an engine that smokes like a chimney from worn valve guides and rings on a brand new motor.



Absolute hogwash. Show me any data to support anything you said. You cannot because it is total hogwash.
fruit.gif





Show me that it's NOT hogwash. Seems to be the approved method from manufacturers EXCEPT those whose engines come with syn pre-filled from the factory. I'm not certain on those, but I would assume some different tolerances were engineered into the design, and the engines were well broken in from the factory. Which makes sense, as you see this type of engine mostly in higher-priced sports cars more often than anything else.
 
Quote:


If you have an engine that is perfectly designed, built, torqued, etc. you can go straight to synthetic, but that is rarely the real world, especially on rebuilds. When assembling an engine, you torque the rod and main bolts to where it is calculated that bearings will be perfectly round without turbulence in the oil flow. Breakin wears any of the non-round surfaces to eliminate whatever turbulence there would be.
Breakin also seats the sharp/thin edges of the cylinder honing against the new rings that are probably not perfect, especially in a rebuild.
I wish I had kept track of the number of people who have come to me with rebuilt engines that consumed oil but stopped after going to dino.



I'm speechless.
 
Quote:


Quote:


Quote:


The issue is that you WANT wear while breaking in an engine, but you want engineered wear - hence the use of dino oil. You want the cylinder walls to wear just a touch, as the rings need to wear-into them to seat properly. Other parts need to wear off any casting imperfections as well, which dino oil will help with better than syn. Last thing you want is an engine that smokes like a chimney from worn valve guides and rings on a brand new motor.



Absolute hogwash. Show me any data to support anything you said. You cannot because it is total hogwash.
fruit.gif





Show me that it's NOT hogwash. Seems to be the approved method from manufacturers EXCEPT those whose engines come with syn pre-filled from the factory. I'm not certain on those, but I would assume some different tolerances were engineered into the design, and the engines were well broken in from the factory. Which makes sense, as you see this type of engine mostly in higher-priced sports cars more often than anything else.



Broken in from the factory? Like the Vettes? Up on rollers for 30 seconds and that is "broken in at the factory"? Let me ask this of you.....what is the difference between conventionals and synthetics ...lets say a 5-30....that makes conventionals better for break in in your mind?
 
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