Honda 5.5hp push mower / calls for 10-30

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I used to do a fair bit of computer and part-time work for a trailer park who had a number of Deere diesel mowers. They'd get upwards of 40 hours a week put on them during the summer (they were run pretty much non-stop every day). So we are dealing with roughly 160 hours a month, give or take.

One constant problem with them was that the rad screens in the front of 'em would get plugged up with clippings and the tractors would get hot, and go thermal, shutting it down until it cooled off.

If the operator was conscious of the temp gauge (and it took some work to get them to be), you could stop the tractor, pull the screen, knock the grass off, replace it, and the temp would come back down to a reasonable level shortly after the tractor was restarted.

This was UNLESS you were mowing VERY heavy grass, on a VERY hot day, and then the gauge would slowly head into the overheat zone no matter how bloody clean the screen was.

That was using whatever dino lube Deere recommended.

Since I was about the only mechanically inclined person working there (though really only part-time, as my job was IT and this was far from my area of employment), the manager (who was, and still is a good friend of mine) and I agreed that I'd setup and see to a maintenance regiment for the tractors. We sourced some AMSOIL grease, hydraulic fluid and oil for these things. Oil was 5w40, grease was their water resistant grease, since the tractors were hosed off after every run.

The switch to the synthetic oil immediately stopped the overheating issue in heavy grass. But not only that, it also made so that the rad screens had to be pretty much plugged solid before the tractors would start to overheat in regular use. This meant there was more time mowing and less time stopping, shutting it off, and cleaning the screen while in use. In fact, most of the time the screens would last the mow cycle and could be cleaned off when the person using it was stopping for a break, lunch...etc.

There was also REDUCED consumption with the synthetic lubricant. Very little oil had to be added between changes. We also extended the drains from 50 hours to 100 hours IIRC, which made the synthetic oil actually less expensive.

We did the same with the synthetic hydraulic fluid, doubling the change interval.

Now clarklawnscape, I'm not a lubricant, or even Mechanical Engineer (though my grandfather was a Hydro Electric Engineer, that holds no real relevance here other than he had a lot of equipment, a lot of land, and a lot to mow and we used synthetic oil in a variety of equipment cutting everything from hay to crabgrass), but I DO have a fair bit of experience with lawn equipment and maintaining it. Case, Kubota, Deere and Massey-Ferguson, I've never had any issues using synthetic lubricants in any of them. This was of course using an appropriate lubricant for the application in the same grade as was recommended/approved by the manufacturer.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I used to do a fair bit of computer and part-time work for a trailer park who had a number of Deere diesel mowers. They'd get upwards of 40 hours a week put on them during the summer (they were run pretty much non-stop every day). So we are dealing with roughly 160 hours a month, give or take.

One constant problem with them was that the rad screens in the front of 'em would get plugged up with clippings and the tractors would get hot, and go thermal, shutting it down until it cooled off.

If the operator was conscious of the temp gauge (and it took some work to get them to be), you could stop the tractor, pull the screen, knock the grass off, replace it, and the temp would come back down to a reasonable level shortly after the tractor was restarted.

This was UNLESS you were mowing VERY heavy grass, on a VERY hot day, and then the gauge would slowly head into the overheat zone no matter how bloody clean the screen was.

That was using whatever dino lube Deere recommended.

Since I was about the only mechanically inclined person working there (though really only part-time, as my job was IT and this was far from my area of employment), the manager (who was, and still is a good friend of mine) and I agreed that I'd setup and see to a maintenance regiment for the tractors. We sourced some AMSOIL grease, hydraulic fluid and oil for these things. Oil was 5w40, grease was their water resistant grease, since the tractors were hosed off after every run.

The switch to the synthetic oil immediately stopped the overheating issue in heavy grass. But not only that, it also made so that the rad screens had to be pretty much plugged solid before the tractors would start to overheat in regular use. This meant there was more time mowing and less time stopping, shutting it off, and cleaning the screen while in use. In fact, most of the time the screens would last the mow cycle and could be cleaned off when the person using it was stopping for a break, lunch...etc.

There was also REDUCED consumption with the synthetic lubricant. Very little oil had to be added between changes. We also extended the drains from 50 hours to 100 hours IIRC, which made the synthetic oil actually less expensive.

We did the same with the synthetic hydraulic fluid, doubling the change interval.

Now clarklawnscape, I'm not a lubricant, or even Mechanical Engineer (though my grandfather was a Hydro Electric Engineer, that holds no real relevance here other than he had a lot of equipment, a lot of land, and a lot to mow and we used synthetic oil in a variety of equipment cutting everything from hay to crabgrass), but I DO have a fair bit of experience with lawn equipment and maintaining it. Case, Kubota, Deere and Massey-Ferguson, I've never had any issues using synthetic lubricants in any of them. This was of course using an appropriate lubricant for the application in the same grade as was recommended/approved by the manufacturer.


eingineers dont impress me much, if you were so smart you wouldnt think much about small engines, but flunkys do and will do anything to feel smart, as in....my ford specs 5w20 but youre way smarter than that, so did they mean 20w50? lol, im about to laugh myself to sleep old bright engineer. i was the only engineer mechanically inclined.........lol
 
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Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape

eingineers dont impress me much, if you were so smart you wouldnt think much about small engines, but flunkys do and will do anything to feel smart, as in....my ford specs 5w20 but youre way smarter than that, so did they mean 20w50? lol, im about to laugh myself to sleep old bright engineer. i was the only engineer mechanically inclined.........lol


I don't follow you (not surprising here).

You berate Quest for NOT being an Engineer:

Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape

But most I read from on here, have their own ideas as if they were engineers, but have very little to base their findings on, such as most of what i read in this section here.


Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape
its a joke, but everyone is an engineer whom knows best, such as you q or j as in joke.


But the moment somebody chimes in who actually has some experience, and you berate them too?

So Mr. "holier than thou", if everything spoken of by those without experience lacks substance and has you splitting your sides in hilarity. And everything spoken of by those WITH experience is also funny because "engineers don't impress me much", then why do you waste your time visiting this site?

I mean, obviously you aren't here to help anybody. You seem to get off on berating and belittling. You obviously aren't here to LEARN anything, since you quite obviously know everything there is to know.

So why ARE you here?

And I'm going to point out, since apparently pot-shots are par for the course with you, that reading comprehension obviously isn't your strong suite. Since you seem to have completely misunderstood my post in every possible way.
 
So it seems your the man with experience you tell us why sae 30 is so much better than 15w40 or is your expert opinion on sae 30 only.
 
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Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape
...now im just waiting on jtk to chime in with internet pics saying i put one hour on a mower and this is a beast so i should know! meanwhile i laugh myself to sleep


Nice.

You're the man Clark. Keep your wealth of information coming.
 
Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape
And if you talk to dealers or daily users such as me, we will sware by sae30, as it wworks and works wonders.


I worked for an "authorized service center" for many brands including B&S, Kohler, Kawasaki, Honda, and Robin and was responsible for buying the oil. I bought pallet loads of HD30 cases because it was cheap from the parts distributor. We got discounts to buy a whole bunch of it at the beginning of the season, so that's what we used. It really didn't have anything to do with it working better than any other oil. We offered "genuine" B&S synthetic oil too, but nobody ever bought it because most people are cheap [censored] with power equipment and it wasn't advertised very well. I kept K-Tech 5W30 and 10W30 on hand because Kawasaki specified it when doing warranty work that required an oil change.

30 weight works fine in most small four cycle engines. I don't think it's some kind of wonder oil though. On most of my stuff at home, I dump in whatever is laying around in the garage. I think my Honda GC160 pressure washer has 5W30 synthetic Pennzoil Platinum in it right now because it way laying around in the garage. It runs fine, just as it would if I put 30 weight in it.
 
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On most of my stuff at home, I dump in whatever is laying around in the garage.


I do the same thing. I have even been known to mix different vicosities and brands in order to get rid of something. However in my last two oil changes for a Honda and a Tecumseh I used M1 EP 5w 30w because I had some left over so its not like I cheaped out.
 
Take a look at this:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/support/frequently-asked-questions/Engine Oil Recommendations/

2 points worth noting:

(1 ) muilt-visc oil used to cost more than monivisc (such as SAC30, etc.) well into the late 70s. But then due to increased popularity and demand, multi-visc oil comes down in price and the reverse begins to show as demand for monovisc price goes up (due to decreased demand).

(2 ) even B&S, which long holds (in their operators manual) to use monovisc oil, now lists on their website that multi-visc oils are acceptable.

Q.
 
There is a lot of good information in this thread but one member chose to insult others and their professions. I have contacted that member. I will not lock the thread at this time.

Helen
 
Think about this, I've measured head temp on a flathead '81 B&S 3.5Hp engine at 308*... No there isn't any oil exposed to this area but I've also measured 276* at the valve cover on the side of the block, that does having oil flowing... Some of the cooling fins were plugged with clippings so it was no doubt hotter than normal, but at those temps a synthetic would have been a good choice...

Unfortunately that engine kicked out the rod shortly thereafter, so never got a "cleaned" reading but I have two other running 3.5Hp Briggs.. Maybe next time I use one of those I'll measure temps again...

Originally Posted By: Tim H.
My Manual says use 10w-30 because it is the oil that governs motor speed (my guess being its pressure or viscosity-controlled)


While I'm not familiar with that many small engines I have my doubts about engine speed governed by oil vis(It isn't in the older Briggs or Tecumseh)... If that were the case seems it would barely run, or at a high speed when the oil was thick at "cold" start up temp...
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


So Mr. "holier than thou", if everything spoken of by those without experience lacks substance and has you splitting your sides in hilarity. And everything spoken of by those WITH experience is also funny because "engineers don't impress me much", then why do you waste your time visiting this site?

I mean, obviously you aren't here to help anybody. You seem to get off on berating and belittling. You obviously aren't here to LEARN anything, since you quite obviously know everything there is to know.

So why ARE you here?


I am here to help, but the book/manual/engineer says sae 30, so im gonna use 5w20, theres no helping the helpless. And to all of the "almighty knowin it alls" explain to me again why it is that sae30 stays in grade longer than 10w30.....again i am here to help......but since you brought it up "so and so" helps those whom help themselves" but what do i know? i just keep people mowing daily, and like i said....these engines will work on anything.............but LAST is another matter. And i dont know why im here, i thought it was to help, but most here "know" so much about lawnmowers, i cant explain it. But when i cant sleep, i come on here and laugh myself to sleep most nights....as ive forgotten more about small engines than most will.............well you get the point. and before you say it, no thats not a bragging point by any means
 
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i dont know it all, but in the small engine world, im not here to learn either, just grease it (if its avalible) and feed it sae 30 and you should be fine. but in the event that i wish to learn, i look to those smarter/more expiernced than i...........
 
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Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape

I am here to help, but the book/manual/engineer says sae 30, so im gonna use 5w20, theres no helping the helpless.

Agreed, stick around you may learn something...

b&s5w20.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1

Agreed, stick around you may learn something...



Or right out of the manual for my 1979 model year Case 220 mower, powered by a 10hp Kohler K-series:

CaseManual.jpg


I only cut grass about an hour a week at this point in my life though.. I couldn't possibly know any better.

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape

I am here to help, but the book/manual/engineer says sae 30, so im gonna use 5w20, theres no helping the helpless.

Agreed, stick around you may learn something...

b&s5w20.jpg


thanks for proving my point, sae 30 for lawnmowers, 5w20 for winter, i can READ..............can you??????
 
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Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: TFB1

Agreed, stick around you may learn something...



Or right out of the manual for my 1979 model year Case 220 mower, powered by a 10hp Kohler K-series:

CaseManual.jpg


I only cut grass about an hour a week at this point in my life though.. I couldn't possibly know any better.

Joel

first of all this manual says sae30 OR.........and this is a case manual.............kohler (not case) made the engine...NEXT
 
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What year is this lawnmower in the photo. looks like my old 1978 .
Dated just like the sae 30 recommendation.
 
Originally Posted By: hemitom

Dated just like the sae 30 recommendation.

do you have a better recomendation? sae30 works and works well, synthetic xxw30 doesent work so well speaking from experience.............do you have any experience past an hour per week? or am i as youd say "dated"
 
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