lawnmower winter storage
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Generally, it's best to change the oil before storage.
Stabil in the gas, make sure the treated gas gets to the carb.
Then drain tank and run carb dry.
If you have a shut-off for the tank, it's usually best to keep a metal tank full of fuel to avoid rust.
Plastic tank can be drained.
Stabil in the gas, make sure the treated gas gets to the carb.
Then drain tank and run carb dry.
If you have a shut-off for the tank, it's usually best to keep a metal tank full of fuel to avoid rust.
Plastic tank can be drained.
Down here we live with the fact (and worry/dread the effort) that we have to cut the grass 12 months out of the year. Up there you (and probably I would be if I lived in the same place) worry about the problem of storing your lawn mower. I guess we all have to worry about something.
Fill it up with treated gas...., change the oil, this is the time to change the air filter and plug as well.
Clean it up and spray wd-40/liquid wrench (any good moisture displacer) on any bare metal (and the underside) Little 2 cycle oil or fogging oil down the plug hole and turn the engine over a few times then put the plug back in...
If its left outside, tarp under it, tarp over it and make sure it can vent...
If it has a battery, take it out and put it in a warmer place. (but I never have, never had problems either)
Weedeater..clean the air filter, clean/gap the plug, put fresh treated gas in it, and a little 2 cycle oil down the plug hole doesn't hurt, but won't help... make sure to run everything a while to make sure the treated gas is in the carb good. I never run em out, being that theres always a little gas left, and that will dry up/gum even with a stablizer.. leaves the carb seals to dry up.
Clean it up and spray wd-40/liquid wrench (any good moisture displacer) on any bare metal (and the underside) Little 2 cycle oil or fogging oil down the plug hole and turn the engine over a few times then put the plug back in...
If its left outside, tarp under it, tarp over it and make sure it can vent...
If it has a battery, take it out and put it in a warmer place. (but I never have, never had problems either)
Weedeater..clean the air filter, clean/gap the plug, put fresh treated gas in it, and a little 2 cycle oil down the plug hole doesn't hurt, but won't help... make sure to run everything a while to make sure the treated gas is in the carb good. I never run em out, being that theres always a little gas left, and that will dry up/gum even with a stablizer.. leaves the carb seals to dry up.
Add stabil to fresh gas run it till it gets to the carb then shut down,
leave gas in thank and carb, been
doing this for 10 years not one carb problem ever.
i change oil in the spring not fall..
leave gas in thank and carb, been
doing this for 10 years not one carb problem ever.
i change oil in the spring not fall..
Surprised that no one has mentioned WD-40...
It is well known for rust prevention...
Good for the lawnmower deck and also "down the
hatch" inside the cylinder...
It is well known for rust prevention...
Good for the lawnmower deck and also "down the
hatch" inside the cylinder...
In 25 yrs I never done anything but leave it alone. No fuel stablizer or anything else. Shut of the gas and run the carb out of fuel, park and forget it. Change the oil (synthetic) when I feel like it which is at min 2 yrs or more. So far in 30 yrs I am on my 2nd one, the first one (1980+/- Sears) I gave away when I got a new one back in 02.
Triple_Se7en
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Run it out of gas - park it & do the maintanaence like tune-up, lubrication and oil change in the spring.
Mix Sta-Bil with some fresh gas and fill the tank, run it until it gets hot, change the oil, replace spark plug and air filter. Turn the engine over a few times to distribute the fresh oil. Spray off the engine with Nitro-Clean (similar to brake-parts cleaner, used to clean gas-powered R/C cars and is safe for plastic and paint) and park it. It's ready to roll when spring arrives.
I learned the hard way that running the tank dry to sit untouched for several months can cause gumming in the carb. My snowblower didn't appreciate this method.
I learned the hard way that running the tank dry to sit untouched for several months can cause gumming in the carb. My snowblower didn't appreciate this method.
With ours we just park them. In the spring the oil gets changed, air filters cleaned etc. Don't even drain the gas just mix in some new sometimes. Never had a problem with any lawnmower.
I bought a new John Deere in 1985 when I mow for the last time I drive it into the shed and shut it off. When warm weather returns I start it and mow. Done nothing other than change the oil every two years. After 21 years it still don't use oil runs fine. If it makes you fell good to do all the things mentioned thats fine but I just park mine.
I use SHELL ROTELLA-T 15w-40 diesel oil
I use SHELL ROTELLA-T 15w-40 diesel oil
Park it and forget it. Been doing this for 35 years on all my indoor stored equipment. Never had a problem. Spend your free time doing more important things like spending time with your family.
Seems to me those that do all this preventive maintenance are the same ones who have nothing but problems with them. My neighbor is a prime example. He is always fooling with it, more than mowing it would semm. I know he changes oil 2x a year, once in spring and again in fall. I have seen him haul to the dealer on several occassions over the years. He even bought a small trailer to do just that. Its a Husqavarna 18hp and he buys all his stuff from the dealer.
That may be due to the difference between performing preventative maintenance and unscrewing / unbolting things he has no business messing with. Changing the oil and treating the gas won't cause a trip to the repair shop unless you're a real dork...in which case he should be letting the shop do ALL his maintenance.
I find it best to stabilize the gas, make sure you run the stabilized gas into the carb. Fill the tank to the top as it helps prevent moisture condensing into the gas. Change the oil in the fall to get the acidic old oil out to help prevent corrosion and then fog the engine really good. This is basically the same procedure as you do for marine engines except you have freezing/water to deal with there. Oh, I also sharpen my blades because I like to be able to just fire up and go in the spring.
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