New hub, same noise

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Check this out thoroughly before committing to doing anything. Pull the plug first and check for metal.
If it needs a rebuild it can cost as little as $300 if you do it yourself, a garage is going to be a lot more, $1400 is possible.
If it needs one a good rebuilt unit can be had for about a grand and you install it (easy job) or a low mileage good used with the correct ratio for much less.

Call these guys for parts and info.

http://www.midwesttrans.com/chevy_gm_8.25_front_centersection.html
 
How critical is it to get this work done ASAP? We have an unexpected tax bill (poor record keeping and planning on our part) so cash is a bit tight for the next few months.
 
It depend on whats worn and how much damage you want to deal with. If its just bearing job then its not a huge deal, if you keep running it you could end up with a damaged housing, ring and pinion and an unusable core.
How much of this work can you do yourself? Once its out its not that bad to do a bearing job on. Get the tag numbers and look for a low mile used one, they are not big $$.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
It depend on whats worn and how much damage you want to deal with. If its just bearing job then its not a huge deal, if you keep running it you could end up with a damaged housing, ring and pinion and an unusable core.
How much of this work can you do yourself? Once its out its not that bad to do a bearing job on. Get the tag numbers and look for a low mile used one, they are not big $$.

I am not sure how much I can do myself but would love to give it a shot if I had the time and tools. I watched the entire video you posted and the biggest issue I have with doing the teardown is that I do not have a bench fixture to hold the diff or an air impact wrench. My 18v cordless impact isn't too useful as it couldn't even break loose the hub-to-knuckle bolts. But it is a good excuse to buy some air tools... (I have a compressor).

I am also concerned about possibly screwing something up by not adjusting things properly (I will watch the second part of the video to get a better idea of how involved that process is). Maybe it is worth picking up some air tools and taking a gamble. If I screw it all up, I could then try the low mileage used route.
 
Also try calling Zumbrota Bearing and Gear- they typically have very competitive prices on rebuilt assemblies with reasonable shipping. 1-800-658-2537
 
I don't know what tools you have or how well you know the dealers in where you live but if I was in that situation I would just ask a dealer mechanic if he wanted a small side job setting it up on the weekend.
Every mechanic I ever knew including myself was always up for a quick side job and tax free $$.
lol.gif


The only tool that is not common in most DIY tool boxes is the dial type torque wrench with a memory pointer. You can get them used on ebay cheap enough, 0-150Lb.In is the one like this.

http://www.eautotools.com/product-p/pred...=shoppingengine
 
We have a 1999 Jeep that had both bearings replaced at the same time because the mechanic said he would rather replace both at the same time because of them having a high probability of going bad at close to the same time.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't know what tools you have or how well you know the dealers in where you live but if I was in that situation I would just ask a dealer mechanic if he wanted a small side job setting it up on the weekend.
Every mechanic I ever knew including myself was always up for a quick side job and tax free $$.
lol.gif


The only tool that is not common in most DIY tool boxes is the dial type torque wrench with a memory pointer. You can get them used on ebay cheap enough, 0-150Lb.In is the one like this.

http://www.eautotools.com/product-p/pred...=shoppingengine

I don't know any dealer mechanics to do the work on the side. I will pull the plug Friday or Saturday and decide from there what to do.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Also try calling Zumbrota Bearing and Gear- they typically have very competitive prices on rebuilt assemblies with reasonable shipping. 1-800-658-2537

Thanks for that recommendation. I have been pulling out my hair trying to determine which rebuild kits from Rockauto, Amazon, or Autozone are the right ones.
 
I was able to drain the diff this evening. It came out pretty smooth and golden, not gray like in the video Trav posted. I did not see any metal flakes or shavings in the fluid but this is what the magnetic drain plug looked like:

9d507cf4-c831-438e-a774-3283534a53f4_zpsgq7go9id.jpg


There seemed to be a slight shimmer in the fluid but not like glittery metal all over the place. Here is the fluid in the drain pan after I wrapped everything up, which includes letting some of the overflow new fluid drain into it from the fill hole:

20160415_185231_zpsd1o6rghc.jpg
 
Resolution!

Preface: I guess I should have mentioned in my first post that a local shop that has done some brake work on the Burb replaced the axle, carrier, and ring and pinion bearings, axle shafts, and axle seals in the rear end in mid-February.

Short Story: The noise was caused by improper backlash in the rear differential gears and the shop responsible for that mistake has corrected it.

Long Story: Following my last post above, Trav and I exchanged PMs, he told me it looked like it could be a bad carrier bearing in the front diff on the driver's side. Doing some reading up on the intricacies of a GM 8.25 IFS bearing job, I decided that was way over my head to do myself so I would have to have a local shop do it, send it out for a rebuild, or swap it out with a junkyard unit. I called the local shop that has worked on the Burb before and initially diagnosed the noise as a bad wheel bearing/hub assembly (which I replaced on my own) and they gave me a quote of $1,000 for a front diff bearing job. I called a drivetrain and differential specialty shop a bit farther from me and they quoted $750 for the same work and $950 if the ring and pinion gears were damaged and needed replacing, but was told that they replace the R&P only as a last resort because they prefer reusing the original gearset. So I used some free rental days with National to rent a Suburban for two days for $4(!), dropped off the Burb at the diff shop on a Wednesday, and promptly left for a business trip.

I got a call from the diff shop the next day and they said the front diff was fine but that the bearing caps in the rear diff were reversed and the gear backlash was way too loose, which was the cause of the noise I thought was coming from the front end. They said I needed new bearings and new ring and pinion gears, which would run me $1,100. I called the local shop and they said that they would fix the rear diff under warranty if they concurred with the diff shop's diagnosis but would not reimburse me for the work if I had the diff shop do it. So I picked up the Burb on Friday (it was a short business trip), paid the diff shop $85 for "servicing" the rear diff, and dropped off the Burb at the local shop the following Monday.

Got a call on Tuesday and the shop's owner confirmed that the bearing caps were reversed and the backlash was loose, both of which he said were absolutely the mechanic's fault, but he said that the bearings and R&P gears were not damaged and could be reused with no issue. To help set me at ease, he reset the warranty for everything in the rear end and extended it from their normal 24 month/24,000 miles to 48 months/unlimited mileage. Also, it is a nationwide warranty, which is good because I may be moving 450 miles away in the coming weeks.

The car was finally ready for pickup on Thursday, with the long lag being because they had to order a crush washer and pinion gear seal from the dealer and they test drove it multiple times to make sure they got the backlash seat dead-on (put on 22 miles while they had it). I headed over but had to wait a bit because the rear diff was leaking so they were pulling the cover and re-sealing it. Since the cover was off, the shop owner invited me back to show me the open diff. He pointed to the bearing caps that had been reversed and gave me a good look a the ring and pinion gears so I could see that there was no scuffing or other damage to indicate that they needed to be replaced. As a gesture of goodwill, the shop owner gave me a $100 gift card to use for my next service there. They sealed it back up (using "premium" synthetic fluids, per the shop owner), gave me the keys, and off I went, with the Burb running quieter than it had in quite some time (I was driving on bad carrier bearings in the rear for several months)!

I have very mixed feelings about the whole ordeal. I am not too happy about having spent about $150 to do the wheel bearing/hub assembly replacement myself (although having an excuse to do some car work that is within my skill set was nice), using two free rental days so my family of 6 could still get around without the Burb, spending quite a lot of time shuttling vehicles around, being without the Burb for 4 days, or the $85 spent for the diff shop's diagnosis, but I am happy to have our primary family vehicle back on the road and running as strong as ever, appreciate the goodwill gesture of $100 off my next service, and thankful that the local shop offered to pay for a rental car if needed (I didn't take him up on the offer because it would have been more hassle than it was worth). My wife was ready to dump the Burb and replace it with something newer, but we are not exactly in a financial position to do so right now.

However, with not having to have spent the $750-1,100 we thought we would have to lay out to get things straightened out, it looks like it may be time to upgrade the Burb's stereo head unit and upgrade to Amsoil SVG for both diffs!
 
Boy, that was an ordeal!

But what about the looseness in the front diff that you posted a video of?
 
By the way, I am super appreciative of the help Trav gave me and thought he steered me pretty darn well for relying only on my descriptions, videos, and photos!

Nick, not sure! The diff shop said it was fine and I am not getting any noise now that the rear end is all in order so I assume it is going strong. Wasn't too happy about the metal on the front diff drain plug but am wondering if the original rear end bearing problems and the front diff metal shavings all trace back to me filling both diffs with Renewable Lubricants Bio-SynXtra™ 75W-90 GL-5 LS Gear oil 2 years ago...
 
The Specialty driveline shop that originally quoted $750 sounds very good. Might want to take the cars there in the future for repairs.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
The Specialty driveline shop that originally quoted $750 sounds very good. Might want to take the cars there in the future for repairs.

They only do drivelines and differentials, with their specialties being rebuilds (they do a lot of work for local shops) and gear ratio changes. They are a little ways from me and it would be a headache to drop the vehicle off there. Maybe if/when I need a front diff rebuild, I will pull it and drop it off with them but dropping off the Burb doesn't really work unless I want to pay out the nose for a rental. Also, I'm not too happy that they wanted to charge me for new bearings and R&P gears when the local shop said they are all good and the R&P gears looked good to me.
 
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