2014 N1k - 10w40 Maxima Maxum Premium 4 Non-Syn

[2wheellove]

Hey Guys!

First time poster here. Just wanted to share my blackstone report with you guys since I haven't really seen any other MC reports for this kind of oil. I have seen a couple for the MaximaExtra4 but nothing about there "premium" non synthetic oil.

I purchased this bike new almost a year ago and I currently have more then 7k mi on her. I've done oil changes at 250mi, 1250mi, ~3300mi, and of course at 7000mi. I will now be sticking to the reg 3500mi oil change intervals from here on out.

The report states that most of the break-in contaminants are almost non-existant, which I believe is from the frequent early oil changes. I think its worthy to note that I did not use maxima the whole time though. For the first oil change (250mi) I used Valvoline MC oil, and then I switched to the Maxima after that. (1250mi+)

Anyways, what do you guys think about the viscosity change? I have to admit, I think I ran this oil a bit more then 3500mi....I think it was more like 3800-4000. But for that kind of mileage on a non-syth, I would say that it performed pretty good in the end. Should I be worried at all?

BTW, I do not think I will be going to full SYN...as I feel that the frequency of my oil change intervals don't warrant the extra money spent. What do you all think? Thanks in advance!

~Dan

 

[alarmguy]

I dont know much about the Z1000. I guess if it was me I would be looking to beat the "universal averages". BUT the engine was still breaking in when you put this oil in, so I guess it looks pretty good.

I wouldnt worry about the viscosity if your changing at or before the recommended change, the manufacturer knows the gear box shears the oil and that is taken into account.
Some gearboxes in shared sumps might get more notchy as the oil thins a little. If this bothers you you can always try a slightly higher low number oil like Rotella 15/40 (or any of the 15/40s and if your manual allows a 20/50), it may shear a little less.
If your manual allows a 20/50 and your in a warm climate, it will shear even less. Again, if your happy with the shifting, dont think about it.

As far as 3,500 changes and using conventional oil, that works for me, dont know why but Im not much of a synthetic guy for motorcycles and have always used conventionals mainly because I too change at or before 3,500. Most complaints about noisy valve trains OR notchy shifting are with some synthetics, you wont have that with (most) conventionals.

I change before and right around the start of winter, though I do get some riding time in over the winter the shorter trips would be considered severe usage, so right at late spring/early summer I do another change, no matter the mileage. If I get in the amount of riding I want, then I also do a mid summer change.

Pretty much 3 times a year, there was a year without much riding I did it two times and will always, no matter how little mileage, change at the start of summer and before winter. Taking into account what I wrote below, I think this is far better then choosing a synthetic and changing only once a year. If I was a road warrior, syn might be a choice. Im not against them, just feel better about what I do.

Conventional oil is fine, changing on time is the key. Their are good conventionals out there and good synthetics, some conventionals, when it comes to wear will beat some synthetics when it comes to wear.

But with that in mind is a select few, Amsoil and Mobile 1 seem to beat everything, after those two you can have a conventional oil like Valvoline Motorcycle (possibly Rotella and the other 15/40 diesel oils) oil be in the middle of the pack when it comes to wear with the other synthetics. I only mention Valvoline because it was the only one of two conventionals tested against a whole pack of synthetics in Amsoils Study of Motorcycle Oils Part II back in 2009.
Also some Harley people use Valvolines Racing Oil VR1 in conventional and syn with great results.

Since I just wrote all the above about conventionals, only fair to point out that right now, for the first time on my still sort of new 14 Road King, I am using Mystic 15/50 semi syn, not because I think the semi is so superior but more so that only a small amount of oils, 15/50 or 20/50 carry a diesel rating (or claim) of CH4 or higher required by Harley. Amsoil does make a full synthetic Diesel oil I could use in that weight but at almost 4 times the cost, not worth it for me, however if I rode so much and piled on so many miles I would consider the Amsoil but again, i would still change 2 times a year. I already ran 2 UOAs on the Mystic oil and a VOA and looking good for me. I was nervous using this oil, not well known and inexpensive yet says it meets diesel cj4 which is good for Harley. Ill be doing another UOA at the start of winter which will be my final change for the year.

If that UOA isnt spectacular I may change to something else next year. For my bike, the Conventional Harley oil is also a good oil, have nothing against it but if that was the case I might be tempted to go to the Amsoil Diesel oil and just change twice a year as the Harley oil is only a few $ cheaper then the Amsoil.

Before anyone flames my post ) Im giving the reasons of what I do and why I do it. Bottom line? Change your oil on time and in my opinion, even a low mileage bike should have 2 changes per year.

 

[sunruh]

the stoners dont seem able to come up with 375 flash being more than a trace.

out of all my tests i only have a handfull at 375 or less.
of those 3 show 1.0% or more fuel

fuel really kill the flash.

overall it is a decent report for this early in its life.

alum is clutchbasket
copper and tin is the brass bushings
nickle, chrome and mangan are all probably scatter. surprised no stoner silver! lol
iron of course is tranny

you have several choices for your nija:
1) expensive synth that gives you a few hp you can never feel nor use anyway
2) cheaper synth that may not even be better than cheap conv
3) expensive conv that you will dump at the same time you will dump less expensive conv
4) cheap conv that you dump at the same time you dump the 3 above, but for a whole lot less money.

if you are not racing and dont have a sponsor, there is really only 1 choice. welcome to white jug 15w40 shell rotella t club. enjoy the savings.

steve

 

[CT8]

1) expensive synth that gives you a few hp you can never feel nor use anyway
2) cheaper synth that may not even be better than cheap conv
3) expensive conv that you will dump at the same time you will dump less expensive conv
4) cheap conv that you dump at the same time you dump the 3 above, but for a whole lot less money.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
...

overall it is a decent report for this early in its life

you have several choices for your nija:
1) expensive synth that gives you a few hp you can never feel nor use anyway
2) cheaper synth that may not even be better than cheap conv
3) expensive conv that you will dump at the same time you will dump less expensive conv
4) cheap conv that you dump at the same time you dump the 3 above, but for a whole lot less money.

if you are not racing and dont have a sponsor, there is really only 1 choice. welcome to white jug 15w40 shell rotella t club. enjoy the savings.

steve


What Steve (sunruh) said with a lot less words then I used.

 

[Spur]

I vote for Chevron Delo 15-40. I think it has a better add pac than Rotella. But, SRT is a good choice.

 

[2wheellove]

Thanks for all the reply's guys.

I think I am pretty happy with my decision to stick with this oil. At around 20$-22$/Gal(online) I think its worth it. The additive package that maxima uses (from what I understand) if fairly good. And since the TBN came back good, I think I will be sticking with this oil unless I see a change in future reports. The thing that worried me a little bit, was the change in shear. But as some of you have mentioned, the drop in shear is more then likely accounted for in these bikes by the manuf. I mean, the book calls for 7.5k mile service intervals on these bikes!

I have used the Rotella t in the past...and to sum it up...I didn't care for it. I ran it in my BMW k1200s and after a few thousand miles the tranny felt really notchy. I never got an oil report done, but I just felt like it wasn't doing its job. And then I ran across a guy who ran it in his Ninja250 and it basically destroyed itself. If the tranny felt good I probably would of ran it a few more times and got an oil report done, but I just didn't care for it. And lets face it, when you come across a report like that...its a bit off-putting. With that being said, I am sure its a great oil...just not in my experience.

~Dan

 

[2wheellove]

Sorry guys, wrote that kind of fast. Change in viscosity due to shear***

 

[sunruh]

different engine different experiences.

that price for maxima is cheap. enjoy it!

 

[2wheellove]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
different engine different experiences.

that price for maxima is cheap. enjoy it!


Exactly! As long as I can keep getting this oil at that price, I'a happy camper.

~Dan