1999 Silverado starting issue

[tstep]

1999 Silverado (newer style). Has worked fine barring a intermittent short in the steering column easily remedied by adjusting the wheel slightly. Went to start truck after work and wont start. Dash lights functioning properly Voltage around the 12 mark. No response from the starter, no solenoid clicking nor any other noise other than listening to the normal relays in the side fuse box. Checked and swapped all fuses and relays that involve starter or ignition. Tore the top cover off steering wheel to wiggle the connection on the ignition switch that is a common failure point.

Any ideas? Truck is in a horrible spot to work on. I'd like to get it started and limp it to a garage somewhere. Can the key be turned to the "on" position, connect jumper cables to the starter, and then connect to battery until running?

Thanks in advance

 

[mmavet]

Does the security light flash when you turn the ignition to the on position?

 

[NHGUY]

The starting circuit on those trucks are computer controlled.It decides if it stops cranking or continues to crank....even if you let off the key to cease cranking.Scary isn't it.

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
The starting circuit on those trucks are computer controlled.It decides if it stops cranking or continues to crank....even if you let off the key to cease cranking.Scary isn't it.

Where do come up with this stuff sometimes? It does go through the computer but the key has to be to the crank position for it turn over...Go back your hall effect in your K-Car.

OP how many miles? 1/2 ton? 5.3? Sounds like your ignition harness is bad. You already said you had a short.
Really need to know what drivetrain.

 

[tstep]

yes, I did notice the security light at least once.

Truck is 1999 1/2 ton 1500(1999-2003 style), 210k miles, 5.3 v8 with 4L60E transmission. I think there is a pinched wire in the steering column that has been an intermittent problem, but not frequent enough to tear the dash down. The thing is, when I turn the key to the "on" position, all the lights, radio, dash, heater, etc. all function normally. Nothing happens though when I turn the ignition to the "start" position.

Will disconnecting the battery reset any of the electronics that may have gone haywire? Is it harmful to anything to connect jumper cables from the starter terminals to the battery direct to get it to turn over or at least check starrter functionality?

 

[mmavet]

If you was able to move those 2 wires that come off the ignition cylinder its possible one is broken. They are transponder wires that go through the steering column and down to your wiring block at the bottom of your steering column. Usually they are 2 really small white wires but some have 1 yellow and 1 black wire. They are your vehicle anti theft system wires and they do break from constant movement of the steering wheel. Those 2 wires send a ohm resistance value from your key to your computer, if it's the correct value your starter engages if the wires are broken no value will be sent and no starter engagement. You can find your ohm value on your key by using an ohm meter set on 2K ohm then get a resistor about the same resistance as your key ohm value at your local Radio Shack. GM has 15 choices. Find where those 2 wires go into your wiring block then bend the wires on the resistor and put 1 end into one side and the other into the other wire end. It's a little more complicated then this, but check on the internet for GM VATS bypass and you can get a better idea of trouble shooting this VATS problem.............If it is a broken wire up by the ignition switch maybe you could just fix the broken wire there instead of adding a resistor at the wiring block. I suspect the broken wire, quite common since the wire was engineered to be finer then frogs hair instead of a wire that will be able to not break with all the constant movement in the steering column.

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: mmavet
If you was able to move those 2 wires that come off the ignition cylinder its possible one is broken. They are transponder wires that go through the steering column and down to your wiring block at the bottom of your steering column. Usually they are 2 really small white wires but some have 1 yellow and 1 black wire. They are your vehicle anti theft system wires and they do break from constant movement of the steering wheel. Those 2 wires send a ohm resistance value from your key to your computer, if it's the correct value your starter engages if the wires are broken no value will be sent and no starter engagement. You can find your ohm value on your key by using an ohm meter set on 2K ohm then get a resistor about the same resistance as your key ohm value at your local Radio Shack. GM has 15 choices. Find where those 2 wires go into your wiring block then bend the wires on the resistor and put 1 end into one side and the other into the other wire end. It's a little more complicated then this, but check on the internet for GM VATS bypass and you can get a better idea of trouble shooting this VATS problem.............If it is a broken wire up by the ignition switch maybe you could just fix the broken wire there instead of adding a resistor at the wiring block. I suspect the broken wire, quite common since the wire was engineered to be finer then frogs hair instead of a wire that will be able to not break with all the constant movement in the steering column.

This.

 

[tstep]

Much appreciated guys for the direction. I'll report back when fixed.

 

[another Todd]

Are you positive it is fully into park? Try starting it in neutral. If neither of those work, have someone turn the key to "start" while you lightly smack the bottom (non plastic area) of the starter with a hammer or other solid object (Be aware the engine may turn over immediately when you do this so stay clear of any moving parts like the fan and belts). Sometimes, as the solenoid contacts wear they get sticky. The rap on the starter jars the solenoid into working. Sometimes even slamming the tailgate while the key is held in the start position is enough of a jolt to cause the solenoid to work again. IF THIS WORKS, I highly recommend replacing the starter and solenoid because it is likely to keep doing this occasionally and eventually rapping it will not work.

 

[tstep]

Yeah, I beat on everything. Rocked the truck, slammed the doors, everything a caveman would do. Cycled the shifter thru all the gears. Tried an "in neutral" start. Moved the truck a bit. I'm pretty sure since the "security" light is on and I had a sporadic short somewhere in the steering column, the problem lies in the wiring harness.

 

[George7941]

On my truck I can pull the starter relay off in the fuse box and use a jumper wire on the relay socket terminals 30 and 87 to operate the starter and fire up the engine.