Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40

[galaxy333]

I have been using Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 in my DW10 BTED4 140bhp, My car has the cat removed and has been mapped to 175bhp.
I notice this engine in Ford and Volvo should use this oil Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30
But in Peugeot this should be used Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30
I can buy this: Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40 at a really good price so I would like opinions on using this oil in the above engine considering I have no emission devices in the exhaust and the engine power has been increased moderately.
I am thinking that it would be a better choice because not requiring reduced ash content or nothing to protect the DPF or CAT that are normally fitted to these vehicles that the make up of the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40 would give more protection to the engine?

 

[bigjl]

I don't msny on here will be familiar with the engine designation you hsve given.

I assume it is the diesel 2.0 from your description of the power output.

In the Ford and Volvo you need to use a low HTHS oil. A5,B5 is what i use usually either Castrol Magnatec 5w30 A5/Bt or Mobil Super 3000 X1 FE 5w30 A/B5.

For better protection Volvo advise using a 0w30 oil meeting A5/B5.

The advantage of Mobil Super 3000 is that the saps are 0.8 which is inline with lots of low saps oil.

One reason why i used it this time in my Pathfinder. I have a workshop manual and founf out that it is fine to use A3/B3/B4 aswell as A5/B5 but i used the Mobil as mine has a dpf.

I hsve found the mpg has increased very slightly.

For last year or so it has sat at 22.3mpg day in and day out doing the same journys every day in ssme trsffic conditions.

Since the change to A5/B5 it is now giving 22.8mpg not miraculous but better thsn nothing.

I would think the only differencd you will have is a very slight reduction in fuel economy.

Though personally i would stick to low HTHS and lowish saps.

 

[Clevy]

If you've got all the emissions equipment removed then I see no reason to keep using a low saps oil. As far as going thicker is concerned it may affect fuel economy as already mentioned.
Can you find devlac where you are. The 0w-30 elite 222 is some great stuff. If you can acquire that you get the benefits of no potential fuel economy loss and long drain capable. Not to mention excellent below freezing cold start ability.
I don't see any problem with the oil you're inquiring about though other than potential fuel economy loss,but considering the mods you've mentioned I assume fuel economy isn't tops of your list.

 

[galaxy333]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
If you've got all the emissions equipment removed then I see no reason to keep using a low saps oil. As far as going thicker is concerned it may affect fuel economy as already mentioned.
Can you find devlac where you are. The 0w-30 elite 222 is some great stuff. If you can acquire that you get the benefits of no potential fuel economy loss and long drain capable. Not to mention excellent below freezing cold start ability.
I don't see any problem with the oil you're inquiring about though other than potential fuel economy loss,but considering the mods you've mentioned I assume fuel economy isn't tops of your list.


I can only get the 0W 40 as a friend with a garage is buying a bulk order and getting it cheap for me, I think he is buying a 225 litre container that is how he usually gets it.
As you have noticed not too worried about MPG, as for cold starts the coldest on record is only -9.2c

normally is only -2c -3c.
I tow with the car and it gets some heavy use so was looking for that bit more protection and cheaper than I was paying for the ESP 5W 30

I change oil and filter every 5-6,000 miles instead of the 12.500 that it can go to, I call it buying peace of mind, and suppose that is why I'm asking on here as it's world renowned as THE place to ask about lubrication.
I know there is massive chemistry that goes into making these wonderful lubes and normally I follow manufacturers advise but when the mods I have had done are taken into account maybe Ford themselves would recommend a different oil.

If you could pick from the Mobil UK site which would you have if you could for my vehicle?
http://www.mobil1.co.uk/synthetic-engine-oils.aspx

 

[Quattro Pete]

I think it would be fine in your application.

Also wanted to note that M1 TD 0w-40 is the exact same product as M1 NewLife 0w-40, just with a different label on the bottle. Not sure if there is any price difference in the UK between the two.

 

[fdcg27]

I'd use it, especially since you can get it at a friendly price.
You no longer have anything to worry about that would require a low SAPS oil.
It certainly won't hurt your engine and even if the cold specs aren't all that great (and they may be), you live in a moderate climate.

 

[bigjl]

As i mentioned above.

But incase it got lost in my rather long winded post.

My Pathfinder can use low HTHS or normal HTHS.

This would infer that low HTHS B1/B5 is purely an economy thing.

My wifes Clio dci runs well after nearly 110k. Most of that on Mobil 1 0w40 in either New Life or Turbo Diesel (they are apparently identical though can't confirm)

My Black Cab ran the best it ever did when i put in New Life 0w40. Felt smoother and never need any top ups, used a tiny bit but not enough to need any added.

Wish i had put it in sooner.

 

[galaxy333]

Well guys my delivery comes today.

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
galaxy333 - You made a wise choice!

 

[galaxy333]

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
galaxy333 - You made a wise choice!


Thank you I appreciate your comments, would you be kind enough to look over my first UOA here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3166922#Post3166922

I had a problem Blackstone originally put my car down as a Gasser but then the new figures were sent to me which are different for the Diesel engine, I put it on the same topic and didn't get any extra looks because maybe most people had looked at the Gasser UOA.
I have always used genuine Ford filters as I don't know of any that are better if I did I would use that make, I also have always changed oil at a max of 6,000 miles instead of the 12,500 that Ford say can be done because I tow a large caravan (trailer) and also do many trips of less than 5 miles.
When I first got the car with 42,000 miles on it the engine used a litre every 900 miles but since I've had it after the 2nd change it now uses none, doesn't move from the high mark even when I did a 1,500 mile trip with the caravan on really thrashing it at times, (going up an incline and changing between the gears to get maximum speed all the way up to the red line at times) so some thing has changed for the better since I've had it.

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
galaxy333 - As a single pass UOA it looks very good, but as Charlie suggests it is wise to get a TBN (and perhaps TAN) too

UOAs really become meaningful when they are trended over time/distance

 

[galaxy333]

Hi thanks for that

I was short of money this time but maybe next time I can do it, I will continue as I think this could be better than the dealer service book when I come to sell it.

 

[galaxy333]

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
galaxy333 - As a single pass UOA it looks very good, but as Charlie suggests it is wise to get a TBN (and perhaps TAN) too

UOAs really become meaningful when they are trended over time/distance


What is TAN?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: galaxy333
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
galaxy333 - As a single pass UOA it looks very good, but as Charlie suggests it is wise to get a TBN (and perhaps TAN) too

UOAs really become meaningful when they are trended over time/distance


What is TAN?


Total Acid Number, which contrasts TBN, which is Total Base Number.