My next door neighbor bought a 2005 Honda Accord with 60k miles on the clock in excellent condition and the owner said he used O'Reilly full synthetic oil and Bosch filters and there was right now a deal for $21.99 for a 5 quart jug and filter and changed the oil every 5-7.5k miles and this is Southern California where weather has been cancelled by popular demand. Now the adventure begins. The service writer at the dealer where he took the car for service told him that oil would ruin his motor and the filter was no good. They recommend (demand?) Castrol Edge and Honda brand oil filters. I told him to find service somewhere else. The next place told him again that O'Reilly oil was junk and he recommended Mobil 1 and an M1 filter. On top of that he was told he would have to change the oil at a thousand miles or so a couple of times to clean out everything that was left behind by a cheap inferior oil. I told the neighbor to keep looking. What do you think?
O'Reilly oil deal
- Thread starter OneEyeJack
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sounds like a service writer needing extra commissions by using the bullying & scare tactic.
I'd simply reply: "PROVE IT!"
And.... they can't!
I'd like to know who rebottles their oil for o'reilly, we know Napa's branded oil is from Ashland oil, the guys who sell Valvoline, given, it may not be from the same vat, but it's good enough for gov't work.
I'd simply reply: "PROVE IT!"
And.... they can't!
I'd like to know who rebottles their oil for o'reilly, we know Napa's branded oil is from Ashland oil, the guys who sell Valvoline, given, it may not be from the same vat, but it's good enough for gov't work.
It's difficult to believe that there's something inherently wrong with O'Reilly brand synthetic engine oil. In the business of making and marketing such a product there can't be too many secrets and the additive packages are available to anyone and the warranty standards for better or worse are know by everyone in the business. Of all the oils out there once you've confirmed compliance with your car's manufacturer how can there be much difference in actual use of one oil over another. I understand detail differences but not the idea that there's enough difference to notice. If you're on top of the oil changes it might just mean that the body of the car might just fall apart long before the engine gives up so that the difference in oils that meet the same spec if of no importance.
have him bring the dealer service writer a copy of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, that you have printed out for him, and then he can split all of the free Honda oil filters and Castrol Edge with you that the dealer is required to supply if they don't want to recognize the OEM spec O'Reilly/Bosch parts!
If he wants to argue the issue, he could do that using the exact requirements from the owner's manual. It probably says something like API SM or later is required, and some viscosity.
Then show that the oil being used is the correct viscosity and has the correct API certification.
If available, find a PQIA report, that would really leave them with nothing to argue about as far as it meeting the spec.
I'm assuming warranty isn't a factor, so maybe it doesn't have to be argued.
As far as what's most ideal, everybody has different opinions about oil, there's no getting away from that. The store brand might not be their favorite but these shops' paranoid reaction to it is absurd.
It sounds like they don't know the difference between a reputable store-brand, which are high profile and I assume API certified, versus actual garbage no-names like Bullseye and so forth.
As long as they're capable of being reasoned with, then I could forgive them for their misconception of the store brands. Not everybody spends a lot of time reading about this stuff. It doesn't have to be their favorite but they ought to be capable of accepting it as safe and legitimate.
If they can't accept that, then keep looking as you said.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
If you're on top of the oil changes it might just mean that the body of the car might just fall apart long before the engine gives up so that the difference in oils that meet the same spec if of no importance.
In that climate, the body should still be good in 50 years. 100 with some effort.
Then show that the oil being used is the correct viscosity and has the correct API certification.
If available, find a PQIA report, that would really leave them with nothing to argue about as far as it meeting the spec.
I'm assuming warranty isn't a factor, so maybe it doesn't have to be argued.
As far as what's most ideal, everybody has different opinions about oil, there's no getting away from that. The store brand might not be their favorite but these shops' paranoid reaction to it is absurd.
It sounds like they don't know the difference between a reputable store-brand, which are high profile and I assume API certified, versus actual garbage no-names like Bullseye and so forth.
As long as they're capable of being reasoned with, then I could forgive them for their misconception of the store brands. Not everybody spends a lot of time reading about this stuff. It doesn't have to be their favorite but they ought to be capable of accepting it as safe and legitimate.
If they can't accept that, then keep looking as you said.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
If you're on top of the oil changes it might just mean that the body of the car might just fall apart long before the engine gives up so that the difference in oils that meet the same spec if of no importance.
In that climate, the body should still be good in 50 years. 100 with some effort.
Points well taken. And I don't think a major auto parts chain is going to mess with specs or risk selling an engine oil that would put them in court.
http://oreillylubetech.com/faq.html#Q1
Sounds like it's decent stuff.About the only house brand I've heard negative things about is AZ Coastal, something about a recall.
Sounds like it's decent stuff.About the only house brand I've heard negative things about is AZ Coastal, something about a recall.
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I'm surprised to hear that around here there are some do it yourself people that are switching from Mobil 1, PP and other name brand synthetics to O'Reilly's synthetic oil. I was asked by someone in the store, which one was better. My answer. I don't know. All are good and all of them will do the job. The answer might be that the cheapest one is better unless you're talking about some really extreme situation and even then how would you decide without a lot of very expensive testing? You can look at a VOA and spec sheets for differences but its the complete package that does the job and I'm not smart enough to argue the merits of one detail against another.
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