F150 Ecoboost - 500 S vs. Purolator and others

[Coprolite]

After much research on Bitog, I am still a little torn on filter choice for my new Ecoboost engine. When I first read about the fuel dilution issues, I was a little sad that life wasn't perfect. Looking on the bright side, I hated waiting on the MM in the old Acura and it would call for an oil change every 8-10k. Waiting on the official OLM in the Ford for around 10,000 miles probably would have had me in fits.

On the filter front, I have three front runners but am open to suggestions.
Motorcraft 500S Purolator L22500 $3.27
PL 22500 $9.31

With my favorite PureOne being so high, I am leaning toward the cheaper ones for this "shorter" OCI.

I will probably stick to M1/PP/PU/QSUD, but will save that for another thread.

I like the efficiency of the Purolators, but the thread end bypass has me stymied.

I guess this is just a whole lot of (un)healthy BITOG obsessing over my new truck. After all, I could slap the cheapest filter and dino oil in the thing and still be fine....right?

What are you all running and why? Filter gurus, what is the best value?

Thanks

 

[EricF]

You'd be good with any of those filters.

However, when in doubt.. just use the Motorcraft.

Purolator makes filters for Motorcraft.

 

[ARB1977]

Never used Purolator in my life. Just bought their synthetic filter and PP 5W20 for the CRV.

A little off topic, sorry.

 

[Hallmark]

When it come to Ford & Hyundai vehicles, the OEM oil filters are excellent and great values.

 

[CarbonSteel]

It is VERY hard to beat the MC filter on price and performance and you would never have to worry about a warranty issue by using them. Although from a different engine family, I have used FL-820s filters for nearly 100K now on my 5.4L and OCIs have ranged from 5K to 8K and they looked just fine when I cut them open.

Use the MCs with confidence.

 

[KCJeep]

Motorcraft! The "S" series Motorcrafts are fantastic filters, there are a whole lot of them running around on non-Ford products for that reason.

Nothing wrong with the Puro's but I'd bet money you'll get better cold starts with the Motorcraft than either of the Purolators. While Puro makes the MCrafts for Ford they make them to Ford spec's so they are not the same, most Motorcrafts have thread end bypasses for one.

 

[hatt]

I'm thinking about using Wix/Napa 57502/7502 when I go to change oil in my new 5.0. Looks to be a little better construction for the same price as the MC.

 

[Sayjac]

Of those listed, I'd say stick with the Motorcraft for the oci you have in mind. Likely similar efficiency to the FL820S which tested ~94% @20um, very respectable.

The PL22500 is one the more expensive P1's. Big price discrepancy between it and the L22500 Classic. I'm assuming that would be the result of Walmart pricing for Classic.

If you wanted to spend $3 more, I'm thinking the Fram Ultra would be another option for a 10k oci. Wouldn't be too concerned with bypass location difference.

But, the FL500S good all around choice, imo.

 

[Hyde244]

With a Ford, you can never go wrong with Motorcraft. It is exactly what the engineers of your engine designed for your application.

 

[RF Overlord]

Motorcraft FTW.

 

[Coprolite]

Thanks for the feedback. I am currently thinking to change the filter as per OLM and the oil twice. When it comes to convenience, the classics, Frams and MC are about the same. NAPA is a bit far to go just for some filters.

 

[Coprolite]

Since I am taking advantage of some MIR and FAR offers, I will probably go ahead with the Oil 2x and filter 1x per 10k(OLM indicator) approach. I can either do it every 5k or just wait for 50% on the OLM and not bother resetting it until it is time to change the filter. Perhaps the MC and its lower efficiency will help the particles break in the engine faster during the first few changes.

The G37 had a nifty way to reset each individual item and even had an extra tracker that could be used as needed. So many different OEM have different approaches to options and implementations on their cars. I just wish I could combine them all.

 

[sopususer]

Another vote for Motorcraft on your Ford. Purolator makes very good filters and when they are made especially to Ford specs, it is tough to do better for the price. Walmart price on OEM filters make them hard to turn down.

I'm a GM guy and I run the AC PF48 on my truck because I like the OEM filter and I like the Walmart price.

Also as stated, in the unlikely event of a problem you won't have to deal with a third party filter being in question with a warranty issue.

 

[Coprolite]

The mention of Fram induced me to do some reading. The specs seem fine if the Tough Guard is not too pricy.

In any case, the filter is not coming off the vehicle until the second change since I plan to change the oil twice per one OLM cycle.

Currently, the only drawback is that the 500S is not carried at one of the two closest stores. I haven't had time to check the other. This simply means stopping by the local dealer to buy it, entailing another stop/trip. This might push me toward a substitute depending on convenience.

Overall, I am not so worried and enjoy exploring all the maintenance possibilities for the truck, not to mention the accessories!

Before yesterday, I was truthfully a little leery of Fram simply due to FUD. A little ironic, as my favorite oils are sludge making Pennzoils.

 

[AITG]

If you plan to keep the truck for a while - like 12 oil changes - check out buying Motorcrafts in a bulk pack case. They won't be individually wrapped but the case price ended up 4.32 each.

For that money I can stick each one in a Ziplock bag and they'll stay clean until I need them.

 

[danthaman1980]

Assuming OCIs between 5k and 10k miles, run the Motorcraft filter. Not because it is the OEM filter, but because it is a good filter for a good price.

For OCIs under 5k (if you just can't wait), save your money and buy the Purolator.

 

[KCJeep]

You don't have to buy in bulk either, if you buy on line at AAP and pick up in store using the P20 code, you can get a single Motorcraft for even less than what Wally's charges.

Much more convienent for me as well, depends on how close you are to Walmart.

 

[Coprolite]

No AAP in North Texas. 3-4(or more) Walmarts that are within normal driving patterns. That said, the cheapest dealer($5.83) is near some places that I sometimes visit for lunch.