Gates Belt Squeak

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I installed a Gates belt on a Yaris two months ago. Since then, the owner has put on a few thousand miles. The belt drive on the system is manually tensionered.

Recently, the belt has developed an awful squeal. I presume this is because the belt stretched. When I installed the belt, I noticed it was a hair longer than the OE Toyota belt but was OK. At the time, I was able to tightened it to a reasonable tightness-- but it was as tight as it'd go.

Should I try tightening the belt more, or should I just replace the belt? Is it normal for aftermarket belts to require constant readjustment? I've never had this issue before with OE belts-- as in I've never needed to retension them after some use.

Thanks.
 
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You're saying that the tensioner had no more travel and was as tight as it would go? If it was sufficiently long enough to require that much adjustment, I'd say it's the wrong belt or defective. Replace it if so.
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
You're saying that the tensioner had no more travel and was as tight as it would go? If it was sufficiently long enough to require that much adjustment, I'd say it's the wrong belt or defective. Replace it if so.



It isn’t exactly “at the max.” The belt tension on this car is adjusted by moving the alternator along a rail with a prybar. Before removing the original belt I marked the location of the securing bolts on the “rail.” When I was tensioning the new belt, I pryed as hard as I reasonably could and the bolts ended up in the same spot as before, so I thought I was good. The belt did seem a hair looser than I normally prefer but at the time it didn’t squeak and it worked fine so I didn’t think much of it.

So should I try tightening first? I can’t decide because I have a feeling that if I loosen the top bolt and tried prying it won’t get any tighter anyway.
 
Usually on a belt system that is manually adjusted, you'll need a bit of extra tension on a new belt because it will break in and stretch a bit (that's why repair manuals give a higher tension amount for new belts compared to used ones), or you need to go back and re tension it. I like doing the latter so the extra initial tension doesn't stress out accessory drive bearings.

You can try re tensioning it, but I've found that once a belt sequels a lot, it will glaze the belt and pulleys and it will no longer get traction with the correct amount of tension. Remembner, you don't want to over tension belts because you can damage accessory bearings.
 
Are you sure there isn't a jack bolt on the alternator bracket? That's usually how Toyota's are. You don't need a pry bar - you tighten the jack bolt and it moves the alternator forward in the slot on the bracket, applying tension to the belt.
 
I put a Napa belt on my VQ35 once (manual tensioner) and I ended up having to get an OE Nissan belt to stop the squeal under load. Roughly the same tension as used on the Napa belt. I believe the Napa belt was actually a Gates part if memory serves. I think you can get the moral of my story
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I read this tip here on Bitog and tried it for myself with success. Get some Silicone Di-Electric Grease, blob it on both sides of the belt the size of a quarter and start up the engine. I did it to my E-150 probably 2 years ago and still not a peep. If a pulley is bad it won't help.

If I could get the search function to work I'd link you to it. Maybe you'll have better luck trying yourself.
 
same with a little silicone spray . use sparingly.
My buddy the toyota tech told me yesterday of a sequoia that his stall mate put on the belt and had a squeal on start up. It was possible to put the belt on wrong but it still worked fine except the start up squeal.
Personally not fond of gates belts. I like gator backs or o.e.m. matshuoushi or however they are spelled.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Are you sure there isn't a jack bolt on the alternator bracket? That's usually how Toyota's are. You don't need a pry bar - you tighten the jack bolt and it moves the alternator forward in the slot on the bracket, applying tension to the belt.


Most of them do, but not this one.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
The belt tension on this car is adjusted by moving the alternator along a rail with a prybar.


My 1978 Cadillac was like that, but I didn't think modern cars used that method anymore.
 
Interesting responses.

I actually looked at the car after work today and the belt was on the looser side, obviously due to stretching. The smooth side of the belt did seem a bit glazed with a bunch of pulley groove marks on it.

Should I still be able to tighten and reuse this belt, or is it done?
 
I did buy a new, overpriced Toyota belt just in case. If I have to use it, I will (and eat the cost of it), just to fix this embarrassment.

But I'll try tightening first.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I did buy a new, overpriced Toyota belt just in case. If I have to use it, I will (and eat the cost of it), just to fix this embarrassment.

But I'll try tightening first.


I certainly agree with Drew's recommendation in general about not trying to be 'spot' on with a new belt needing to 'break-in' initially. Over-tension set on a new belt could hurt the bearings at the pulleys over time. Get it 'close' initially and 're-check' for proper tension per the 'worn belt' range tension and try to hit someone in the middle or slightly closer to the tighter side of the 'range' of set tension on a 'broken in' belt.

Come to think of it, I think I heard the Civic's A/C compressor pulley making noise this summer as some point. Ugh!
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I used to use a 4 foot section of 2x4 for leverage when sliding an alternator down the bracket if that gives you an idea on how much tension I liked on my drive belt. Never had one squeal!
 
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