Here's a few shots (mileage = 44,640):
annoyed ! low miliage using oil ?
- Thread starter OtisBlkR1
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I understand the way you feel because my car is doing the same thing and also has a knock.I'm currently doing an oil
consumption test from the dealer,ill be bringing it back in a couple of weeks.My car is only 3-4 months old!!
Put some miles on it,do a couple of OC.Some time it takes a little time for the rings to seat in properly, and go from there.Good luck.
consumption test from the dealer,ill be bringing it back in a couple of weeks.My car is only 3-4 months old!!
Put some miles on it,do a couple of OC.Some time it takes a little time for the rings to seat in properly, and go from there.Good luck.
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GM used to tell it's dealers to feed scouring powder (BonAmi) into its engines to "rough up" the cylinder walls to ease oil consumption.
It was a not uncommon method for rapid ring seating. I'd probably place it out of vogue somewhere in the 60's. Home grown race engines were prepared this way where you could never get enough legal space to cycle the engine from pressure to vacuum to manage a planned break in.
GM used to tell it's dealers to feed scouring powder (BonAmi) into its engines to "rough up" the cylinder walls to ease oil consumption.
It was a not uncommon method for rapid ring seating. I'd probably place it out of vogue somewhere in the 60's. Home grown race engines were prepared this way where you could never get enough legal space to cycle the engine from pressure to vacuum to manage a planned break in.
Those pics look familiar! The 3.5L Honda engine should burn no oil in a standard OLM cycle. I just went an entire 18K (~3 OLM cycles on 0W-30) the oil on the stick move from full to just a hair off full on our 2006 Ody with ~65K.
I would say do a couple OLM's with the oil and see if it settles down.
Which engine in the Silverado?
I would say do a couple OLM's with the oil and see if it settles down.
Which engine in the Silverado?
Toss a quart of MMO in it next time it is down 3/4 of a quart. Keep toping off after that. MMO is super mild and if the consumption is a dirty ring issue then this should get it cleaned up enough to stop the consumption. I would try a different brand of synthetic as well. Maybe try M1 5W30 or PP 5W30 and see what we see?
THe only VS I have used is their 20W50 so I have no idea how their 5W30 is? I know that Castrol Syntec Blend 5W30 got eaten up like a fat kid in a room full of cup cakes in my Dodge Dakota and my 4Runner only oil that either of them used. In fact I went through 2 case's in about a month that included changing the oil on both vehicles and toping off for about a month. I still had one case left and I gave it away. I also changed the oil back to M1 in both vehicles and all oil consumption stoped and never returned again. Some oils are just weak in some area's and their nothing you can do about it besides learn from it and never use them again.
So try adding one quart of MMO if you like just add 1/2 a quart first since being a half quart over will not hurt anything. Then keep topping off with MMO until the bottle is empty. Keep driving and topping off with the Vavoline Synthetic until you run out. Then you can either drain and refill with a different oil or continue this OCI and start topping off with what ever brand you will use next. So if you where going to use PP 5W30 next and you still had 2000 miles to go on this oil change I would start topping off with PP.THis way whenyou make the switch your vschile has already seen some of this chemistry and will behave hopefully with no consumption.
Normally when someone decided to make the switch to Synthetic I normally recommend they do a 30 minute engine flush with B12 Chemtool. 9 out of 10 times when you do this it prevents any consumption issues especially on vehicles that have been on dino oil for a long long time. Since you already have to oil in a B12 Chemtool flush would be a tad late to the game. This is why I suggested the MMO in the sump as this will do some cleaning during the OCI which might stop the problem during the oil change interval itself!
If the Honda is not useing much I would leave it be and just keep useing synthetic. The Honda is a much cleaner running engine then what is in the Silverado. I think it will take car of itself if you continue to use synthetic. I do not think the GM engine though will take care of itself....It is going to need some form of cleaning be it with MMO,B12,Auto-Rx or Lube Control 20 it is not going to fix itself. THese are dirty engines.
THe only VS I have used is their 20W50 so I have no idea how their 5W30 is? I know that Castrol Syntec Blend 5W30 got eaten up like a fat kid in a room full of cup cakes in my Dodge Dakota and my 4Runner only oil that either of them used. In fact I went through 2 case's in about a month that included changing the oil on both vehicles and toping off for about a month. I still had one case left and I gave it away. I also changed the oil back to M1 in both vehicles and all oil consumption stoped and never returned again. Some oils are just weak in some area's and their nothing you can do about it besides learn from it and never use them again.
So try adding one quart of MMO if you like just add 1/2 a quart first since being a half quart over will not hurt anything. Then keep topping off with MMO until the bottle is empty. Keep driving and topping off with the Vavoline Synthetic until you run out. Then you can either drain and refill with a different oil or continue this OCI and start topping off with what ever brand you will use next. So if you where going to use PP 5W30 next and you still had 2000 miles to go on this oil change I would start topping off with PP.THis way whenyou make the switch your vschile has already seen some of this chemistry and will behave hopefully with no consumption.
Normally when someone decided to make the switch to Synthetic I normally recommend they do a 30 minute engine flush with B12 Chemtool. 9 out of 10 times when you do this it prevents any consumption issues especially on vehicles that have been on dino oil for a long long time. Since you already have to oil in a B12 Chemtool flush would be a tad late to the game. This is why I suggested the MMO in the sump as this will do some cleaning during the OCI which might stop the problem during the oil change interval itself!
If the Honda is not useing much I would leave it be and just keep useing synthetic. The Honda is a much cleaner running engine then what is in the Silverado. I think it will take car of itself if you continue to use synthetic. I do not think the GM engine though will take care of itself....It is going to need some form of cleaning be it with MMO,B12,Auto-Rx or Lube Control 20 it is not going to fix itself. THese are dirty engines.
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BonAMi was used before they did a good a good job cross hatching cylinders to control oil. Yes it works and many other makes did the same thing like Land Rover for instance. It would madness to do it today though as back when this was recomended most people got 3 year or about 60K miles on an engine before you had to trade the car in or rebuild the engine. Todays engines are a far cry from the days of adding a tablespoon of bonami through the intake.
On commercial dieseles especialy power unts that sit still and run at a constant rpm itis still common to blow graphite dust intot he intak tracr. Powdered graphite come in a huge can with a poited top like a bottle of gear lube. With the engine at RPM you shake the container to make sure it is free and you squirt a couple large puffs of graphite into the bore.....THis works nicely for power units that will sit in a basement and turn a generator. One diesels going into tractor units it makes more sense to load them up and do planed breakin that way. You basicaly put them throughtheir paces on short runs with lots of moderate hills and a trailer that is loaded. You keep increase the load and increases the engine braking until those rings are properly seated. Even better would be to have an engine dyno to use for break in.
So please no one try putting bonami in their intak we have more stuff tat can easily be damged inthe valve train today.
On commercial dieseles especialy power unts that sit still and run at a constant rpm itis still common to blow graphite dust intot he intak tracr. Powdered graphite come in a huge can with a poited top like a bottle of gear lube. With the engine at RPM you shake the container to make sure it is free and you squirt a couple large puffs of graphite into the bore.....THis works nicely for power units that will sit in a basement and turn a generator. One diesels going into tractor units it makes more sense to load them up and do planed breakin that way. You basicaly put them throughtheir paces on short runs with lots of moderate hills and a trailer that is loaded. You keep increase the load and increases the engine braking until those rings are properly seated. Even better would be to have an engine dyno to use for break in.
So please no one try putting bonami in their intak we have more stuff tat can easily be damged inthe valve train today.
Originally Posted By: Jim 5
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I heard about the BonAmi, but then again look where GM's attitude got them today.
I wonder two things about this:
1. Does it work?
2. How did they find out? (who's car got to be the guinea pig?)
Sands the rings to break them in.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I heard about the BonAmi, but then again look where GM's attitude got them today.
I wonder two things about this:
1. Does it work?
2. How did they find out? (who's car got to be the guinea pig?)
Sands the rings to break them in.
My 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan (purchased new) used about 3/4ths of a quart in 1200 miles using Havoline conventional. Switching to Penn. Platinum, the usage was about a half quart in 3k miles. Dodge claims that this is normal usage and withing specs. This is why I continue to use synthetics in my application.
well, im revisiting this post, my supply of Valve syn is depleated, and i have PEN ULTRA in it now, my consumption has decreased but i still have consumption 1/3 to 1/2 a qrt every 1,200 to 1,500 miles this is better.. but its still consumption
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Ok, a few months back the Silverado and the Honda went from Dino, to "valv-Syn". The Honda seems to be doing very well with little to no consumption. The Silverado on the other hand after me checking and adding today with less than 2000 miles on this OCI, ive now added almost a total of 3/4 + QRTt 1,000 mi it was between a third and a half low. today added about 1/4 qrt to bring it back to full.
Q. Chevy claims its in tolerance if it uses up to a full qrt every 1000 mi. do you think thre full of it ? it was NOT drinking white bottle valve 5-30 like this before the switch, and if it was i sure didnt notice. and no its not leaking. possable blow-by maybee ? ? ?
It may just be me but I never had any positive results using Valvoline products.
Ok, a few months back the Silverado and the Honda went from Dino, to "valv-Syn". The Honda seems to be doing very well with little to no consumption. The Silverado on the other hand after me checking and adding today with less than 2000 miles on this OCI, ive now added almost a total of 3/4 + QRTt 1,000 mi it was between a third and a half low. today added about 1/4 qrt to bring it back to full.
Q. Chevy claims its in tolerance if it uses up to a full qrt every 1000 mi. do you think thre full of it ? it was NOT drinking white bottle valve 5-30 like this before the switch, and if it was i sure didnt notice. and no its not leaking. possable blow-by maybee ? ? ?
It may just be me but I never had any positive results using Valvoline products.
I use oil from all the big names like Pennzoil, Quaker State, Chevron, Valvoline, Mobil, ect, generally which ever is the best deal at the time, and I have never had an issue with any of these major brands in any of my cars.
If there is a problem with consumption generally the problem lies not with the oil used but with a mechanical issue unrelated to the oil. If you use the correct spec oil for the car there will never be a problem.
If there is a problem with consumption generally the problem lies not with the oil used but with a mechanical issue unrelated to the oil. If you use the correct spec oil for the car there will never be a problem.
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Originally Posted By: Viggen
If you use the correct spec oil for the car there will never be a problem.
"I've never had a problem, therefore problems don't exist."
Brilliant.
Do a search for: Honda VCM oil consumption' and learn something.
If you use the correct spec oil for the car there will never be a problem.
"I've never had a problem, therefore problems don't exist."
Brilliant.
Do a search for: Honda VCM oil consumption' and learn something.
Originally Posted By: Viggen
I use oil from all the big names like Pennzoil, Quaker State, Chevron, Valvoline, Mobil, ect, generally which ever is the best deal at the time, and I have never had an issue with any of these major brands in any of my cars.
If there is a problem with consumption generally the problem lies not with the oil used but with a mechanical issue unrelated to the oil. If you use the correct spec oil for the car there will never be a problem.
did you read this whole thread ? if you did you would know that when Dino is used in this truck there is no noticable consumption, when syn is used there is a noticeable consumption.. and if you read the whole thread you would also know that only the correct weight/spec has been used.
I use oil from all the big names like Pennzoil, Quaker State, Chevron, Valvoline, Mobil, ect, generally which ever is the best deal at the time, and I have never had an issue with any of these major brands in any of my cars.
If there is a problem with consumption generally the problem lies not with the oil used but with a mechanical issue unrelated to the oil. If you use the correct spec oil for the car there will never be a problem.
did you read this whole thread ? if you did you would know that when Dino is used in this truck there is no noticable consumption, when syn is used there is a noticeable consumption.. and if you read the whole thread you would also know that only the correct weight/spec has been used.
My brother had a similar experience with his '07 Sierra, 5.3. He bought it with 52,000 miles and made the change to Mobil 1 5W30, which is the correct viscosity the manual calls for. He began to notice consumption. He took it to the dealer before the 3 year warranty was up and they did a consumption test on their dino oil and of course said it was within "spec". He ran that oil with neglible consumption and then tried Amsoil OE 5W30. He has gone a full 5,000 mile OCI on the Amsoil OE with little to no consumption. He plans on sticking with Amsoil. Go figure...
Thing is as long as the manufacturer allows for certain consumption rates as normal then there is no problem "officially".
It is quite common for many cars today to consume some oil before the OC interval, it is normal. That is why you will see that almost every manufacturer instructs owners to make sure they check the oil level in their car at almost every fuel fill up. Actually many car makers have been instructing customers to do this for decades now.
It is quite common for many cars today to consume some oil before the OC interval, it is normal. That is why you will see that almost every manufacturer instructs owners to make sure they check the oil level in their car at almost every fuel fill up. Actually many car makers have been instructing customers to do this for decades now.
Shocking isn't it? Some engines burn a bit of oil.
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Shocking isn't it? Some engines burn a bit of oil.
exactly what part of your responce is suppose to be helpfull or informative ? did you take the time to read the thread ? if you want to be clever, by all means.. but atleast add something meaningfull/helpfull to your reply while doing so..
Shocking isn't it? Some engines burn a bit of oil.
exactly what part of your responce is suppose to be helpfull or informative ? did you take the time to read the thread ? if you want to be clever, by all means.. but atleast add something meaningfull/helpfull to your reply while doing so..
Originally Posted By: cancov
My brother had a similar experience with his '07 Sierra, 5.3. He bought it with 52,000 miles and made the change to Mobil 1 5W30, which is the correct viscosity the manual calls for. He began to notice consumption. He took it to the dealer before the 3 year warranty was up and they did a consumption test on their dino oil and of course said it was within "spec". He ran that oil with neglible consumption and then tried Amsoil OE 5W30. He has gone a full 5,000 mile OCI on the Amsoil OE with little to no consumption. He plans on sticking with Amsoil. Go figure...
Thank for this information, im pretty brand loyal but im going to have to explore more options if i want to continue using syn. I would prefer not to have to add oil mid OCI.
My brother had a similar experience with his '07 Sierra, 5.3. He bought it with 52,000 miles and made the change to Mobil 1 5W30, which is the correct viscosity the manual calls for. He began to notice consumption. He took it to the dealer before the 3 year warranty was up and they did a consumption test on their dino oil and of course said it was within "spec". He ran that oil with neglible consumption and then tried Amsoil OE 5W30. He has gone a full 5,000 mile OCI on the Amsoil OE with little to no consumption. He plans on sticking with Amsoil. Go figure...
Thank for this information, im pretty brand loyal but im going to have to explore more options if i want to continue using syn. I would prefer not to have to add oil mid OCI.
FWIW Synpower 5-30 has been in my wife's 5.3 for almost all of its 93K miles. Consumprion is about a quart in 5 K miles. 2004 Tahoe
Originally Posted By: steve20
FWIW Synpower 5-30 has been in my wife's 5.3 for almost all of its 93K miles. Consumprion is about a quart in 5 K miles. 2004 Tahoe
thats wild, i purchased the truck in 08 with less than 40,000 on the clock. immediately did my own oil change valve white bottle 5-30 and then started paying attention ZERO consumption in 3,000 miles. then i switched to valve SYN 5-30 and within the first 1,000 miles noticed consumption. 4 OCI'S later ive switched to Penzoil ultra, Ive noticed less consumption with it in the sump. Im getting ready for a 1,200 mile round trip vacation. Im going to put penzoil YB or valve WB (prob WB) and see if there is any consumption back on Conventional oil.
FWIW Synpower 5-30 has been in my wife's 5.3 for almost all of its 93K miles. Consumprion is about a quart in 5 K miles. 2004 Tahoe
thats wild, i purchased the truck in 08 with less than 40,000 on the clock. immediately did my own oil change valve white bottle 5-30 and then started paying attention ZERO consumption in 3,000 miles. then i switched to valve SYN 5-30 and within the first 1,000 miles noticed consumption. 4 OCI'S later ive switched to Penzoil ultra, Ive noticed less consumption with it in the sump. Im getting ready for a 1,200 mile round trip vacation. Im going to put penzoil YB or valve WB (prob WB) and see if there is any consumption back on Conventional oil.
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