Bardahl 1 ingredient.....what is it and what does it do?

[XtremeLeO]

thank you for the info sir, the information on the can does tell its for old engines. now i know y they r as thick as.. honey?

anybody tested the engine oil? iam testing the 15w-50, and iam impressed by the performance. feels better then the last 15w-40 imo, especially when the hydraulic lifters' tick is gone for good now.

i dont know where to perform a uoa here, so sounds coming from the engine is one of the ways i use to determine the quality of engine oil, another is by checking the oil after an oil change. reading info in here, makes me think dat my method is inadequate..

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: Porkchopx
Bargain brand oil and a cheap additive package are no replacement for a quality motor oil(In my humble opinion). Thick motor oil with extra detergent, thickening agents, lubricity additives etc. and especially chlorine and PTFE used in many OTC additives are just plain bad. Motor oils are specially blended by the oil manufacturers adding more additive can really impedede an oils job. I remember an infomercial where an additive was put into a big block motor on a dino run and tested. Then the oil was supposedly completely drained and the motor preformed as well as before.
What a joke, my brother and I did this on a car we were taking to the scrap yard. It seized solid in under five minutes just idling.

That was the old ZMax commercial!

And if you recall, they had the Fire Department standing next to the engine, then drove the car around suppposedly with "No Oil" in it because the ZMAX was ON the CYLINDER WALL!!!

Needless to say, Being a Chemist to combat Auto company LIES is Awesome. Im still trying to figure out if Lucas thick honey is any good.

Anyone have the link to the BITOG Test where it looked like lucas caused Oil to Foam?

Also, how do they get those people watching the Engine that has Oilpumped into it somehow when it has "No Oil" to not say anything.....

 

[kr_bitog]

I dont know what the exact ingredient but I know what it does to my motorbike.
Around 10 years ago I have 85cc Honda air-cooled motorbike with 3 speed that will run around 9000 rpm while doing 95 km/h (full-throttle).
During that time I only use dino 20w-50 oil. Without the Bardahl, after race the bike for more half an hour and I quickly accelerate full-throttle, the bike will have lag (it happened when the engine kind of overheated) before it accelerate. There was one time, the oil breakdwn causing high pitch noise that force me to shutdown the engine to cool down.

With the Bardahal 1 added to the oil, I never have those lags, and oil breakdown during long high rpm ride.

However, I am not sure if the same SM oil can do the same now

 

[Spyder7]

I got curious about this stuff after reading about it in this thread. A google search on Bardahal 1 didn't turn up much useful, beyond a PDF put out by Bardahal.

It doesn't provide a whole lot of meat, beyond showing how in tests with Bardahal 1 treated oils against untreated (and un-named) oils, that it reduced friction and wear, helped to control deposits and oxidation, and inhibit corrosion and attack on bearings.

I've seen this stuff everywhere and its pretty cheap. I doubt it'd do anything harmful, but combined with a good oil, its claims seem to be the type that are difficult to verify.

Could be useful, could be snakeoil. Seems hard to tell either way.

-Spyder

 

[ueberooo]

Wow, ~5% lead diluted to on the order of 5000 ppm's once in the oil?? That can't be good for the catalitic converter, much less, for handling the spent oil, etc.


Originally Posted By: addyguy
To address a couple of the issues raised in this post:

Porkchopx - Bardahl 1 has 1350 ppm of zinc (ZDDP), not of the lead compound. The lead compound in the product is 3-7% for the Bardahl 1 Supplement; and 0-5% for the Bardahl 2 Supplement. You are prolly right that this still indicates it has much more lead than zinc.

I agree with unDummy that with modern quality oils and reasonable OCI's, sludging should not be an issue, even with this add, as the concentration of lead is fairly low.

The characteristic of this product that intrigues me is the absorption into metal surfaces. A lot of oil adds claim to do this to prevent 'dry starts', but this compound seems to be proven to do it, by a non-automotive test. (ie, not trying to sell some 'miracle' add) If it does really absorb into bearinf surfaces, then on engines with lead-compound bearings, would this not protect and slightly 'build them up', almost guaranteeing they will never wear out? As I said in my original post, if you mixed this with a high-moly and zinc oil, you would have a mix that would resist wear very well....

 

[XtremeLeO]

sum more info i found on bardahl

bardahl info

have anybody heard of the "world's longest no oil run" test? it was conducted so many years ago, this was the test dat boosted bardahl's oil treatment brand here

 

[Spyder7]

Your link is slightly broken. Corrected link:

http://www.cycar.com.my/bardahl/

 

[XtremeLeO]

thank you sir

 

[XtremeLeO]

another information dat i found out about bardahl motor oil is dat they are produced from a highly refined GROUP II base stocks. ive read about a group III being able to perform good, is the group II as good as well?