Door / door hinge adjustment - 2000 GMC Sierra.

[mrsilv04]

On Dad's Sierra, at about 75,000 miles, the hinges on the driver's door were beginning to slop out. He took it to a local body shop (who advertises that they stand behind all of their work as long as you own the vehicle).

The body shop put what I'll call a 'pin kit' in both the upper and lower hinges.

Now, after about a year, the door leaks air at highway speeds when there are strong cross winds, and we're seeing evidence that there's water getting inside the cab, from around that door.

The fit of the door appears to be good, except where the door fits up at the roof line. Up there, it simply isn't fitting tight enough. The passenger side door (which has never been adjusted) does a really good job of compressing the weatherstripping at the top (nearly smashing it flat). The driver's side door is barely compressing it. There is so much difference in the two, it is visually apparent.

This truck has not been in an accident in the past. It is a 3 door model, so there is not a half door on the driver's side that opens.

Is there any adjusting that the body shop can do that would allow this door to fit and seal better at the top? Or did they botch the job of replacing the pins?

I thought this would have been an easy job for a body shop to not screw up.

 

[SLJ2137694]

I would think it would be difficult to screw up a hinge pin kit install. The door hinges are probably welded on so adjustment is difficult. The sealing of the door was apparently OK for many miles so I suggest it may be a weatherstrip that has deteriorated or maybe it just needs to be repositioned or shimmed a little. I would think a dealer would be able to fix this and they could even search the technical data base for any information on revised and improved parts or any service tips that would assist in making a satisfactory repair.

 

[mrsilv04]

Originally Posted By: SLJ2137694
I would think it would be difficult to screw up a hinge pin kit install. The door hinges are probably welded on so adjustment is difficult. The sealing of the door was apparently OK for many miles so I suggest it may be a weatherstrip that has deteriorated or maybe it just needs to be repositioned or shimmed a little. I would think a dealer would be able to fix this and they could even search the technical data base for any information on revised and improved parts or any service tips that would assist in making a satisfactory repair.


The dealer for this truck won't be any help, since they were axed by GM earlier this year...

It isn't an issue with the weatherstripping, it is still soft and pliable, and is not damaged or worn. This is on a vehicle that is garaged when it not being used. Its main use is pulling a travel trailer in the summer... not a daily driver.

The problem appears to be that the top edge of the door is tipped away (out) from the roof of the cab.

I discovered this when washing the truck today, and washing the roof of the cab. The top edge of the driver's side door does not fit up to the roof of the cab like the passenger side door does. We're talking about 1/4 to 3/8" of difference between the two doors.

The weatherstrip on the top edge driver's side door is barely compressed, while on the passenger side, it is smashed flat on the top edge.

 

[punisher]

I feel a bit guilty about telling how we fixed wind leaks/water leaks on some new cars, but................

Verify door/panel gaps. Assuming gaps are even, does any part of the door stand proud of the front fender or B pillar? If something has slipped, the door won't be level with other body panels. If the door is even and level, with consistent gaps, it is likely the upper part of the door has bent outward away from the body at the roofline. If it has, roll window down, put a piece of wood between rear of door and B pillar, and apply pressure inward on the upper part of the door's window frame to bend it in. It can sometimes take considerable persuasion. Fixed a lot of Towncars like that.

 

[Chris142]

Has he ever locked the keys in the truck and had to call somebody to open it? What they do is shove a wedge in the top of the door and that wedge pushes the top of the door out enough so that they can stick a rod in and push the lock button to unlock the car.
Maybe the locksmith went overboard with the wedge?

I bet that you could put a knee against the middle of the open door and pull the top back to get it back where it goes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P82nlvqdy...PL&index=43

 

[mechtech2]

The lock plate can often be adjusted.
This is on the other side of the door, and is the normal means of adjustment.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: punisher
I feel a bit guilty about telling how we fixed wind leaks/water leaks on some new cars, but................

Verify door/panel gaps. Assuming gaps are even, does any part of the door stand proud of the front fender or B pillar? If something has slipped, the door won't be level with other body panels. If the door is even and level, with consistent gaps, it is likely the upper part of the door has bent outward away from the body at the roofline. If it has, roll window down, put a piece of wood between rear of door and B pillar, and apply pressure inward on the upper part of the door's window frame to bend it in. It can sometimes take considerable persuasion. Fixed a lot of Towncars like that.



That funny because my friends dad worked at a Chrysler dealer in the early 70's and he said new cars would come off the assembly line and the doors would not close right. Dealer would use wood blocks as you describe to fix the door(s) before the car could go out on the lot for sale.

 

[mechtech2]

Punisher has good advice.
This technique works well for stronger people.