I guess I'm lucky. The second shop.that I've previously used also works on alot of classic cars. They had two 60's impalas an AMC Javelin and I think a couple older mercury's.In my experience, I've seen up-charges for older cars. Many places around here will not work on vehicles older than 10 years.
Too much liability, too many opportunities for something else to go wrong. It's even on their paperwork.
I hear your pain on this, but the shop gave you THEIR price based on what they know, and also what they don't know. It's up to you to decide if it's worth it or not to move ahead with that.
Some of the shops will work on older cars, but you sign their work order with a huge disclaimer that they "assume no responsibility for ancillary breakage or parts needed due to age".
Part of the issues with having older cars.
Classic car customers are an entirely different customer base than the owners of 20 year old economy cars.I guess I'm lucky. The second shop.that I've previously used also works on alot of classic cars. They had two 60's impalas an AMC Javelin and I think a couple older mercury's.
This is absolutely true and not always considered. I'm working on a '97 Outback right now. At a minimum it needs three wheel bearings, front struts and a new rear d/s or some way to replace one of the staked u-joints.I’d imagine nearly everything needs to be replaced back there, if its in the rustbelt. and what will break in the process?
There is a reason cheap(er) cars depreciate. At some point, if you don’t diy, it’s time to move on.
The Ford dealer near me is $185/hr on customer pay. My indie is $65/hr and will happily use whatever parts I take him.Honestly, $500 for labor is probably about right.
Most shops are getting $100 per hour or more.
Standard brake job is 2 hours labor, add an extra hour for wheel cylinders and bleed brakes.
Ebrake cables can easily take 3 hours or more.
A shops going to markup the parts some, anywhere from 40%-100% depending on the shop.
They also aren't getting economy stuff off rock auto. They are going through a local trusted parts store.
Shops have to warranty their work so most will shy away from off brand parts that may fail and cause a come back repair.
Last economy car drum brake job I sourced parts for, shop retail parts prices for good quality name brand parts were around about:
Drums $90-100 x2
Shoes $80
Hardware kit $40
Figure $50-75 for wheel cylinders x2
Ebrake cables $100 each x2
I also assume the 70's and older cars are simpler to work on, and have nearly no vehicle specific plastic parts to break on most repairs?Classic car customers are an entirely different customer base than the owners of 20 year old economy cars.
I'm not challenging you and I hope I'm wrong but I have to question how long an indy can maintain $65/hr in today's economy? Obviously there are other factors like location, and maybe he doesn't really need the $ and just enjoys keeping busy.The Ford dealer near me is $185/hr on customer pay. My indie is $65/hr and will happily use whatever parts I take him.
He might be a bit "slow" on some jobs? But even if he bills time like a lawyer, $90-100/hr is still pretty good.I'm not challenging you and I hope I'm wrong but I have to question how long an indy can maintain $65/hr in today's economy? Obviously there are other factors like location, and maybe he doesn't really need the $ and just enjoys keeping busy.
I'm not even that good and I'm not lifting a finger at $65/hr.
Agreed. Even if he only has two lifts in a decapitated building, $65/hr doesn’t add up.I'm not challenging you and I hope I'm wrong but I have to question how long an indy can maintain $65/hr in today's economy? Obviously there are other factors like location, and maybe he doesn't really need the $ and just enjoys keeping busy.
I'm not even that good and I'm not lifting a finger at $65/hr.
A quality front and rear brake job will take a lot longer than an hour.Firestone just quoted my friend with an 07 Expedition $1200 for brake pads and rotors all the way around. He brought it in for a suspension noise, nothing to do with the brakes...
Those brakes are nothing special, we did them a while back, fresh pads and rotors are like $149/axle at the parts store. So that's $900 for an hour of work. Insane! Obviously he told them no thanks, just figure out the noise.
A quality front and rear brake job will take a lot longer than an hour.
If you didn’t clean the hub flange and caliper bracket down to shiny metal and impacted every fasteners to factory spec, then an hour is definitely possible.Maybe an hour is pushing it but I think it took us 2-3 hours last time? And that's casual DIYers jacking up one corner at a time and hunting for tools in a mess. I suspect we could have knocked it out in an hour if we were professionals in a shop with a lift.
If you didn’t clean the hub flange and caliper bracket down to shiny metal and impacted every fasteners to factory spec, then an hour is definitely possible.
I just did an '06 Expy so I knew this sounded a little off -- although it looks like things changed in '07.Firestone just quoted my friend with an 07 Expedition $1200 for brake pads and rotors all the way around. He brought it in for a suspension noise, nothing to do with the brakes...
Those brakes are nothing special, we did them a while back, fresh pads and rotors are like $149/axle at the parts store. So that's $900 for an hour of work. Insane! Obviously he told them no thanks, just figure out the noise.
He's been open for probably 30 years. The shop charges actual hours, not book hours, but are very honest about the time taken. When he was at $55/hr, he changed both halfshafts on my '06 Odyssey for 2 hours billed. Would have taken at least 4-6 doing it with hand tools and jack stands.I'm not challenging you and I hope I'm wrong but I have to question how long an indy can maintain $65/hr in today's economy? Obviously there are other factors like location, and maybe he doesn't really need the $ and just enjoys keeping busy.
I'm not even that good and I'm not lifting a finger at $65/hr.
Wonder if he has everything paid off and is doing it more for fun? Beats me, bucks the tread TBH--but what the heck, if you have this option, by all means, run with it.He's been open for probably 30 years.
On a lift and if I rushed, I would be willing to bet I could slap new rotors and pads on all 4 wheels of either Nissan in my signature (brakes are the same for either) in an hour. - I don't work that way so no matter, but there likely the easiest brakes I have ever touched. No rust here either. Wheel off, 2 bolts and the caliper is off, one whack and the disk if off, compress caliper, slap on new pads and the coat hanger spring thingy - back together. Maybe have to adjust the e-brakes on the back and that takes a little more, depends. IA quality front and rear brake job will take a lot longer than an hour.
DYI is the way to go on breaks. There easy but can be time consuming with bleeding and all.
Time is money