MMO full oci?

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
That stinks, if it was dirt stopping a leak, then anything added that is supposed to clean could possibly have triggered it (unless it swells gaskets and seals). Maybe next OC switch to a HM oil and see what happens, or just use your favorite oil alone.


I had done an Auto RX clean and rinse on the car before, so there shouldn't have been much in there as far as dirt. Looking up through the drain hole everything was very clean.

I was planning on starting her car on my large stash of Quaker State Torque Power 5W-30, but I put in my last jug of Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage instead. I am using that same oil in my car right now, and it is slowing the oil consumption fairly significantly, it just took a while for it to do it.


Well then it seems you did have positive results, I'd say stick with the same oil for a while and the leak might just stop.

 

[chevrofreak]

I wouldn't say I had positive results. The engine was clean and leak free after the Auto RX clean and rinse, before I ever added the MMO. There was just a small amount of varnish in an area of the timing chain cover that gets little oil flow. That's why I added the MMO.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak

I was planning on starting her car on my large stash of Quaker State Torque Power 5W-30, but I put in my last jug of Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage instead. I am using that same oil in my car right now, and it is slowing the oil consumption fairly significantly, it just took a while for it to do it.


The success I was referring to was the oil you're using now has "slowed consumption fairly significantly". I'd say that, and a clean engine is success.

 

[chevrofreak]

It worked in my car, but it's way too early to tell if it's going to work in hers. My car never had any leaks that were as visible as the ones her car now has. When I was under her car inspecting it, there were big drops of oil hanging onto several of the rear oil pan bolt heads, and I saw a big one from the right side cylinder head. On my car, the side of the block was wet with oil, but no visible drops.

The way the oil pan is deigned, the gasket always has oil above it, so any leak in the gasket is going to be an issue.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd be interested in reading about the outcome. Sounds like a poor design. Do you think running it a pint of half qt low would help? I'd hate to do that but I guess it is worth considering.

 

[chevrofreak]

The car has been run slightly overfull its entire life. Every time it came back from the dealer it was about 3/16" over full. When I would put 6 quarts in, I would get the same result. The oil level had never gone down, ever, in the previous 95+ thousand miles.

I didn't change the filter this time since it was a Mobil 1 filter that only had 4200 miles on it. It took exactly 5 quarts to get it to the full dot on the stick, so monitoring oil consumption will be easy.

Even half a quart won't matter. The oil pan is very, very shallow.

 

[Greggy_D]

Originally Posted By: Greggy_D
Just changed the oil in the 2002 Taurus. MMO is going to be in there for a 3000 OCI.

1 qt MMO
4.5 qts Trop Artic 10w-30
Supertech ST-2 e-core filter
106,000 miles on the car
3.0L 24v DOHC

I've run LC20 in the engine for a couple years now and can still see some stubborn sludge? or carbon? deposits through the filler hole. I'm also interested to see is there is any perceived performance improvement from possible ring cleaning.



Small update......

About 600 miles into the OCI. I've always had a very, very small oil leak with this engine. I can see where the oil drips down on the outside of the oil pan, but it never ever dripped on the ground...........until now.

I have a few drops on the driveway, but this may be due to the lesser viscosity of the oil combo with MMO. Don't know yet. The carbon/sludge deposit I can see thru the filler hole looks unchanged.

We're taking a road trip this weekend so that will give the engine a nice long hot run.

 

[ADFD1]

Stubborn sludge and varnish in the top of an engine will take a little time to clean up. The same goes for any of the other slow cleaners. MMO is actually pretty good at cleaning up splash fed areas in an engine. It could take a couple of normal OCI's to get things real clean. Hang in there. Enjoy the trip!

AD

 

[Falcon_LS]

I've used MMO to top off my crankcase not too long ago in my truck. I'll be solving the oil burning from its roots soon, and I wanted to try MMO whilst its burning oil just to experiment. I added about 300 ml and the engine immediately felt much lighter and wants to go. It also gave me an additional 0.5 km/L, albeit it smokes a bit more. Currently considering running a full quart with 4 litres of Lexus full synthetic 5W-40 at my next OCI once the head is sorted.

 

[ADFD1]

Glad you saw some positive results! If you have any doubts, and you shouldn't, add a pint and run it the full OCI. Then next OC do the full quart. If there is any junk in the bottom end of the engine you will slowly break it down. Either way you will be fine!

AD

 

[Falcon_LS]

Funny you mention that, because at my next oil change I am planning on running a full quart with the Lexus 5W-40. At that point, the oil burning will have been sorted too. So far this has been the best oil for my engine, especially where consumption control is concerned. With all other oils (including full synthetics), I'd have to add a full litre every 2,500 km (1,560 miles). With this oil, it wasn't until 5,138 km (3,212 miles) that I needed to add a litre.

Having said that, I'm generally easy on the truck. But it now feels so much lighter with MMO in the crankcase and TC-W3 in the fuel. It also had quite an impact on acceleration - it still wanted to go when I hit 170 km/h (107 MPH) @ 4,100 rpm the other day.

 

[ADFD1]

Nice results, and a lot of others see almost instant results when they add MMO to the oil. My suggestion is after you sort things out, use your favorite oil and add nothing to it. Then once a year, winter months in the USA, you can add a full qt for the entire OCI, or if you like add a pint for the last 1000 miles of the OCI. We've done it for years with fantastic results! That pint added at the end of the OCI will keep a clean engine clean, and help slowly clean a dirty engine.

AD

 

[Falcon_LS]

Thanks, AD!

 

[demarpaint]

Another satisfied MMO user! Glad you got good results. Once everything is nice and clean you can add it toward the end of the OCI and that engine will remain nice and clean. A few guys I chat with via PM have the same observations! Good stuff!

 

[Greggy_D]

Originally Posted By: Greggy_D
Originally Posted By: Greggy_D
Just changed the oil in the 2002 Taurus. MMO is going to be in there for a 3000 OCI.

1 qt MMO
4.5 qts Trop Artic 10w-30
Supertech ST-2 e-core filter
106,000 miles on the car
3.0L 24v DOHC

I've run LC20 in the engine for a couple years now and can still see some stubborn sludge? or carbon? deposits through the filler hole. I'm also interested to see is there is any perceived performance improvement from possible ring cleaning.



Small update......

About 600 miles into the OCI. I've always had a very, very small oil leak with this engine. I can see where the oil drips down on the outside of the oil pan, but it never ever dripped on the ground...........until now.

I have a few drops on the driveway, but this may be due to the lesser viscosity of the oil combo with MMO. Don't know yet. The carbon/sludge deposit I can see thru the filler hole looks unchanged.

We're taking a road trip this weekend so that will give the engine a nice long hot run.


Another update......put on about 1600 miles total so far for this OCI. That road trip must have done wonders because the sludgy/carbon deposit area is significantly reduced. I just about dropped a load in my pants because I haven't seen that area change in about 3 years, even with LC20 and Amsoil Engine Flush. The oil is still a nice medium honey color. The other internals that I can see through the filler hole look absolutely immaculate. Also, the drips on the driveway have ceased.

For the heck of it, I'm going to change the oil out this weekend and add another quart of MMO.....before my early December change to syn for the winter. This will give a fresh MMO dose about 2 months to work some additional magic.

 

[ADFD1]

Nice report, my father swears by the stuff, and I've grown to love it too. It works! Cleans things up nicely, and many people notice improvements in how their engines run. Good to see the fan club growing! This is the kind of testimony I believe!

Keep us informed!

 

[JohnBrowning]

I have never used it in oil for longer then the last 500-1000 miles of an oil change except in one car I bought that was sitting in a field for years and sludged up more then anything Ihave ever seen on hear or in my time as a Mechanic. In that one application I ran Castrol Syntec 5W50 and MMO at each oil change and when I drained I ran a pint of B12 Chemtool each time. This was on a car with so much sludge that Ihad to use a shop vac, pencial and putty knife to clean the sludge out of the head and valve cover. That car lasted me another 10 years doing that and was cleana s could be inside. It was an 1982 Toyota Starlet. When the transmission finaly went in 2007 I could still light the tires up and it did not burn or leak any oil or smoke at all.

I had an Airframe and Powerplant mechanic that workedon the aircraft I used to fly that used to add 1 pint to his car and his truck both Fords every oil change. The car had 300,000 and truck had at least 180,000 miles and they both ran great even though they where rusted. A lot of pilots add it to the leaded fuel to tryand reduce lead deposits onthe valve seats and valves face.They also add it tot he oil.

I had a truck that I had to repair a power steering line once while I was out 4 wheeling. Theonly fluid I could find amoungst my friends on the trail to refill the powersteering unit was MMO. This was a recirulateing ball and joint power steering system so it held a lot of fluid unlike a rack and pinion unit. I ended up leaving that MMO in the powersteering system for some place between 7-12 years before that power steering failed and Ihad to replace the power steering unit. The MMO looked just like new after all those years inthe powersteering system and the powersteering always felt and worked great no matter how hot or cold it got outside.

I donot have any UOA with MMO and but I have to admit I would love to see one. I do not think that MMO is something that would be needed in a clean engine and I doubt it would do anything benifical for a clean while designed engine. In something proned to sludge or ring issues or something that smokes or use's oil it can not hurt to give it a try. I think common sense though would dictate that you go with an oil at least one grade more viscous if adding a quart. For instance my Camry only holds 3.9 quarts of oil if I was going to add 1 quart of MMO to it I would want to start with 10W40,5W40,15W40 or 15W50 so that I would have oil that wasnot excessive thin. Also most of the oils like 5W40,15W40,15W50,10W40 HM etc..... have higher additive levels then 5W30 SM GF-3 oils so even with the thinning you should be ok. This would ensure that if we say any type of excessive wear that it was based on the chemistry of MMO and not the fact that it thinned out the oil to apoint that it was not up to the job of protecting part's. Maybe I will give it try this summer. I would love to see a UOA of it on a healthy engine!

 

[JohnBrowning]

The problem with trying to remove varnish with anything from B12 to Auto-Rx is about flow. We usualy see varnish is area's that do not see vigerious flow or splash. For instance my wifes ballance shafts in here 3.8L Buick V6 looked like [censored] when I had to change the upper and lower intake manifold. The auto Rx had not touched it. I had also tried a quart of MMO before the I had heard of Auto-RX. The problem was lack of flow. I used a shop rage and some B12 chemtool and all the black and yellow hard varnish cleaned right off with almost no elbow grease at all just the solvent action of B12. I tried spraying B12 with any friction from the rag and it only removed a little bit of the varnish. In the end it took a little bit of friction to remove it all. It simply will not just melt and drip off the surface if the flow is not enough to physicaly push it off like a power washer does!

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
The problem with trying to remove varnish with anything from B12 to Auto-Rx is about flow. We usualy see varnish is area's that do not see vigerious flow or splash. For instance my wifes ballance shafts in here 3.8L Buick V6 looked like [censored] when I had to change the upper and lower intake manifold. The auto Rx had not touched it. I had also tried a quart of MMO before the I had heard of Auto-RX. The problem was lack of flow. I used a shop rage and some B12 chemtool and all the black and yellow hard varnish cleaned right off with almost no elbow grease at all just the solvent action of B12. I tried spraying B12 with any friction from the rag and it only removed a little bit of the varnish. In the end it took a little bit of friction to remove it all. It simply will not just melt and drip off the surface if the flow is not enough to physicaly push it off like a power washer does!


John, are areas that do not see vigorous flow like the upper valvetrain or like on a small block chevy the area in the cylinder head where the pushrods and rocker arms are located.

 

[ARB1977]

Right now the Jetta has .5 qrt of MMO and 4 qrts of GTX HM. The wife does put some pretty good miles on the car every week...about 300. I do check the oil every few weeks. Shes about 400 mile into the oci and so far it does seem alittle darker than normal.

I wish i jumped on the MMO bandwaggon before i bought 12 bottles of Auto Rx....oh well.