Shimano
Maintaining rims for best brake perf.....
- Thread starter Pablo
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Pablo,
What I do is loosen the pad bolts (one side at a time) and then hold the brakes closed. Using a folded up piece of paper (2 or 3 folds maybe), I will toe in the pads (place paper under leading edge of pad), and lightly tighten. All you really want is the front portion of the pad to contact the rim first to clear water and debris. Less squeal too. Repeat for the other pad. Then, I will turn the adjuster a few turns, maybe 1/4 (out). Squeeze the brake calipers and loosen the cable bolt. Pull it snug and re-tighten the bolt. You should get a little rim/pad spacing with the cable slack. Then adjust at the levers for feel. If you are using V-brakes, you can slightly bend/flex the appropriate metal spring arm to center the pads for equal contact. Or, you can use the adjuster screw on each caliper arm. I've found that one can quickly run out of adjustment with those screws.
Make very sure that you do not allow the pads to contact the tire at any point in the pad travel. Easy way to ruin expensive tires.
What I do is loosen the pad bolts (one side at a time) and then hold the brakes closed. Using a folded up piece of paper (2 or 3 folds maybe), I will toe in the pads (place paper under leading edge of pad), and lightly tighten. All you really want is the front portion of the pad to contact the rim first to clear water and debris. Less squeal too. Repeat for the other pad. Then, I will turn the adjuster a few turns, maybe 1/4 (out). Squeeze the brake calipers and loosen the cable bolt. Pull it snug and re-tighten the bolt. You should get a little rim/pad spacing with the cable slack. Then adjust at the levers for feel. If you are using V-brakes, you can slightly bend/flex the appropriate metal spring arm to center the pads for equal contact. Or, you can use the adjuster screw on each caliper arm. I've found that one can quickly run out of adjustment with those screws.
Make very sure that you do not allow the pads to contact the tire at any point in the pad travel. Easy way to ruin expensive tires.
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I'm not having a problem with toe-in.....I need new pads, mine are just too worn to get 100% contact of the face against the rim. It's not gross, it's just not perfect.
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-cantilever-brakes/
I remember (years ago - Schwinn Varsity) a kid once thought the pads went against the tire!!
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-cantilever-brakes/
I remember (years ago - Schwinn Varsity) a kid once thought the pads went against the tire!!
Hmm, time to add a Scotchbrite to the list. Some extra stopping oomph is definitely in order for around here.
Any good adjustment tips for road-bike style caliper brakes?
Any good adjustment tips for road-bike style caliper brakes?
This on a mountain bike? If you have the side pull calipers, there is little that can be done for those. I have never had any luck with those. If this is a road bike, I can help there.
The simplest way ever to adjust the toe on either cantilevers or V brakes is to do it with the tire removed from the rim. This way, you can see exactly what you are getting.
You want the front edge to be a little closer than the rear so when it contacts the rim, it gets pulled flat.
You want the front edge to be a little closer than the rear so when it contacts the rim, it gets pulled flat.
Road bike. They haven't been touched in 1000 miles.
Same principle. I mount my bike on the trainer. Using the adjuster barrel, turn it so that it is about half way out. Then, adjust the cable at the brake caliper (loosen, pull tight, re-tighten). Then adjust the pads for toe and finish with the adjuster barrel for your prefered brake feel. There is an adjuster screw on the side of the caliper for distance to rim. Screw in to move the pad out and screw out to move it in. Trial and error until you get both pads to contact the rim at the same time.
Kestas
Staff member
Originally Posted By: NYEngineer
... You want the front edge to be a little closer than the rear so when it contacts the rim, it gets pulled flat.
I learned this trick 30 years ago. It stops the horrible brake chatter some bikes get.
... You want the front edge to be a little closer than the rear so when it contacts the rim, it gets pulled flat.
I learned this trick 30 years ago. It stops the horrible brake chatter some bikes get.
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Originally Posted By: wantin150
This on a mountain bike? If you have the side pull calipers, there is little that can be done for those.
My first MTB had cantilever brakes with eccentric shims on the brake studs (?). The shims let me adjust the pad angle in ever axis. I don't see that type adjustment on the V-brakes on my current bike, but with the asymmetric brake pad/shoe design toe-in is achieved anyway.
This on a mountain bike? If you have the side pull calipers, there is little that can be done for those.
My first MTB had cantilever brakes with eccentric shims on the brake studs (?). The shims let me adjust the pad angle in ever axis. I don't see that type adjustment on the V-brakes on my current bike, but with the asymmetric brake pad/shoe design toe-in is achieved anyway.
Alcohol and wet/dry sandpaper. I sometimes sand the shoes. Good info from MPVUE and wantin150.
I used some rubbing alcohol to clean the rims after installing a new set of Kool Stop Dual-Compound MTB pads.
After adjusting the toe-in, I made 15 to 20 hard stops from 20-25 mph on my bike. During the first 5 or 10 stops, there was severe noise, but the noise went away after the 20th stop or so.
After adjusting the toe-in, I made 15 to 20 hard stops from 20-25 mph on my bike. During the first 5 or 10 stops, there was severe noise, but the noise went away after the 20th stop or so.
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