If so, anybody have the procedure? I'm good at taking things a part, not so good at putting them back together.
Should brake fluid be flushed on a regular basis?
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2-3 years is fine. Some say every year - and that probably is smart - but 2-3 years works fine for me since 1974.
Now the average car on the road? Probably has the factory fill BF!
Now the average car on the road? Probably has the factory fill BF!
I am pretty serious about maintenance, do my own work, have rebuilt a number of engines, drive motorcycles, ATV, truck tractor. Have never experienced or heard of a brake related problem or failure for not flushing brake fluid. I hang with car guys, who collect and rebuild, they do not flush. I did rotors, drums, pads and shoes, and on my kids car last night. 14 year old car, that has only been topped off and bled and a partial line replaced. Uh, they still work, with that nasty old fluid.
That being said, I am willing to look at a Used Brake Fluid Analysis, or forensic evidence that shows fluid failure. I am not above learning something new, it just seems to be a bit of hype/marketing.
That being said, I am willing to look at a Used Brake Fluid Analysis, or forensic evidence that shows fluid failure. I am not above learning something new, it just seems to be a bit of hype/marketing.
Having done a few hundred brake jobs, most failure of equipment is caused by moisture in the system. Frequent, 1-2 yr change of fluid removes said moisture and provides the opportunity for a good inspection and is an hour out of my life that I can afford.
Smoky's opinion
Smoky's opinion
I use a Motive power bleeder and flush every 3-4 years,breaks
are always there when i need them,been using Preston's DOT 3
synthetic break fluid and i like it, nice stuff..
are always there when i need them,been using Preston's DOT 3
synthetic break fluid and i like it, nice stuff..
Kestas
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Originally Posted By: tpitcher
... My master cylinder cover has never been off. How can moisture get in?
Past the seals. If you've ever studied seal technology, you'd realize there's a thin film of brake fluid between the seal and bore, which actually provides the "seal" and allows for movement of the seal relative to the bore. This also provides a path for moisture to migrate from the environment into the fluid at each caliper. Over time, a significant amount of moisture can make its way into the fluid and severely degrade the fluid with respect to corrosion protection and boiling resistance.
A thought just occurred to me. For those posters that believe changing just the fluid in the master cylinder will allow the new fluid to migrate its way to the calipers, must also accept the fact that moisture that collects at the caliper migrates its way to the master cylinder, ABS unit and all other points that contact brake fluid.
This past week I flushed the brake fluid from two vehicles that were five years old with original fluid. The fluid was nasty in both cars.
There are other reasons to change the brake fluid:
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50412.htm
... My master cylinder cover has never been off. How can moisture get in?
Past the seals. If you've ever studied seal technology, you'd realize there's a thin film of brake fluid between the seal and bore, which actually provides the "seal" and allows for movement of the seal relative to the bore. This also provides a path for moisture to migrate from the environment into the fluid at each caliper. Over time, a significant amount of moisture can make its way into the fluid and severely degrade the fluid with respect to corrosion protection and boiling resistance.
A thought just occurred to me. For those posters that believe changing just the fluid in the master cylinder will allow the new fluid to migrate its way to the calipers, must also accept the fact that moisture that collects at the caliper migrates its way to the master cylinder, ABS unit and all other points that contact brake fluid.
This past week I flushed the brake fluid from two vehicles that were five years old with original fluid. The fluid was nasty in both cars.
There are other reasons to change the brake fluid:
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50412.htm
I change the brake fluid every six months in my two track rats. The last thing I want is my brake fluid boiling while I'm trying to slow down from 130 mph for a 50 mph corner. I flush the fluid every two years in the SUVs and the motorcycle. I prefer ATE Super Blue Racing, which is an excellent DOT4 fluid.
I've replaced to many hydraulic brake parts on old beaters not have learned a lesson. I used to bleed my cars every year until I came to BITOG, now I do it every 2-3 yrs (every yr on my bikes).
For those non-believers: Take a ride on a lat model sportbike with 4 yr old brake fluid, then ride that same bike with fresh fluid - you'll be amazed at the difference.
For those non-believers: Take a ride on a lat model sportbike with 4 yr old brake fluid, then ride that same bike with fresh fluid - you'll be amazed at the difference.
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I use my motive extractor to bleed all of mine. Works fine. Way easy.
Did a buddies brakes a few weeks ago. OEM fluid was about 8 years old. Black as night and NASTY. He had no idea until I showed him the old fluid and the new. He doesn't let me forget how nice the brakes feel now (granted he was on the backing on one pad!).
brake fluid is so cheap, and its so easy to bleed why not do it often? i use a vacula, and them manually bleed with sleep bleeders when im done with the vacula.
Hmph. wonder if ARX would work... 
I'm thinking of doing my motorcycle, the front brake is spongy even though it has new pads and was bled. Just doesn't feel like it did when it was new.
I wonder how easy it is to do on a car. Anything special to watch out for if you have ABS?
I'm thinking of doing my motorcycle, the front brake is spongy even though it has new pads and was bled. Just doesn't feel like it did when it was new.
I wonder how easy it is to do on a car. Anything special to watch out for if you have ABS?
New pads and just bled? Motorcycle brakes should NOT feel spongy. Bleed again before you ride. Do it just like the old days, even if you have ABS, and get rid of the bubbles you must have in the line.
Brake fluid is a PAG fluid, much different than petroleum, PAO, or POE.
Don't put that stuff in there, all rubber brake fluid parts are deigned to work only with PAG fluids. Anything else will make the components swell like balloons.
Anyway, brake fluid flushing is interesting to me, because some people go 15 years without a single hydraulic problem and never flushed their systems. Other people are not so lucky. This is why I flush the factory fill at one year, with Valvoline DOT4, and then flush once every three years. Brake fluids are cheap, brake hydraulics are not. It is a low cost preventative measure.
Don't put that stuff in there, all rubber brake fluid parts are deigned to work only with PAG fluids. Anything else will make the components swell like balloons.
Anyway, brake fluid flushing is interesting to me, because some people go 15 years without a single hydraulic problem and never flushed their systems. Other people are not so lucky. This is why I flush the factory fill at one year, with Valvoline DOT4, and then flush once every three years. Brake fluids are cheap, brake hydraulics are not. It is a low cost preventative measure.
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