PCV Valve and Sludge Toyota 1MZ-FE

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I have the known sludge prone engine from Toyota, the V-6 1MZ-FE from 1997 in an Avalon. I just replaced the PCV valve today, which was original (136,500 miles). The ball inside rattled a little bit, like it was slightly stuck, but not fully. When I took off the old PCV valve there was oil inside it and inside the hose leading from it. It was fresh oil from the engine, as it smelled from gasoline. I was wondering if it is normal to have some oil in the PCV system? I have had minor oil consumption issues (1 qt/2000 miles) recently and was wondering if this could also be from the worn out/gummed up PCV valve. BY the way, I used a new purolator PCV valve I assume this is good.
 
Most engines will have residual oil in the hose. It sinks out in the migration of blow-by gases. It's what leaves a trail in your intake too. We didn't use to see it in TBI or carb'd engines due to the air/fuel mix washing it perpetually.

If it's really a problem and the source of your consumption ..and the new PCV valve doesn't solve it, go to longer and/or larger diameter hose. Send it around the engine bay if you have to.
 
Also I was just wondering if the new PCV will help control the sludging in this engine. When I pulled the valve cover at ~85,000 miles to replace the valve cover gaskets there was a thin coating of gritty sludge on the heads and cams. Nothing major but about 50k miles later I hope it did not get much worse. I have been using regular conventional its whole life at 3-4k intervals due to sludge concerns on this particular engine. If I had a different car I would prob run syn for 10k miles and not worry about it, but I do not feel comfortable doing it on this one. What do you guys think?
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
a oil seperator is another idea. its one of the few things that are actually legal in CA.


Good of you to point out. I'll post a pic of the oil seperator I have installed in my Tacoma later.
 
Sometimes the "calibrated" amount of flow on aftermarket pcv's are not spot on and can cause issues. When in question buy OE or a japanese made one (can make a difference sometimes).

If you dare I'd say use a synthetic and change it frequently. This may slowly remove some sludge. The key is to prevent the sludge from pluggingup the engine. Synthetic is still cheaper than an engine swap. I highly disuade you to use any sort of flushing agent.

I have a 97 camry with the same engine for sale...... I forgot to mention the motor siezed up from a flush. Debris will kill your oil flow especially crucial oil galleries and oil pickup.
 
good point, maybe in the near future I will drop the oil pan and check the pick up screen and clean ONLY the screen and pan with solvent. Sound like a good idea to you guys?
 
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You will be horrified what you will find after you pull the pan. The pan will take you 20minutes to drop since its in your face.

Do not disturb the "ugly" if you start scraping you'll open a HUGE can of worms.
 
haha like taking a baseball bat to a wasps nest, I am sure I will find a mess in the pan, thats why I wanted to drop it. Even the valve covers were so gunked up and varnished even soaking in brake clean for a half hour didnt completely clean them!
 
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Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
Good of you to point out. I'll post a pic of the oil seperator I have installed in my Tacoma later.

I'm looking forward to seeing this. I'm thinking about putting one in my wife's Lancer...
 
Yea, I will take my chances for the time being with conventional oil since I change it so often and I'm afraid of it starting any leaks. I used to go to the quick lube places until I pulled the valve covers at 85K miles and saw the sludge that was when I switched to quality bottle oil and started doing it myself. Hopefully the PCV valve helps things some. I do not hear any abnormal noises from the engine/drivetrain such a ticking, etc. Consumption is also not a HUGE problems at a quart every 2k miles especially for an engine with 136k miles running 5W30. Eventually I know in the future my curiosity will get the better of me and ill drop the pan when I have more spare time.
 
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Originally Posted By: kd5byb
Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
Good of you to point out. I'll post a pic of the oil seperator I have installed in my Tacoma later.

I'm looking forward to seeing this. I'm thinking about putting one in my wife's Lancer...



Here you go.

I'll show you 2 pics of my Tacoma...I do have the oil seperator disconnected for a couple of days. I'm going to be changing out my injectors for some new ones.

First pic of oil seperator


Second pic of oil seperator


The yellow topped thing is the Condensator. I bought it from an internet company. I was going to build one myself, but figured...why reinvent the wheel. I actually bought it used. It was a return and wasn't even dirty. Paid a grand total of 80 bucks or something like that.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 
Rig a self draining setup if possible. No maintenance. You just need a bigger chamber for the heavier stuff to fall out of suspension.

ef510dbc534ca957vp2.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Rig a self draining setup if possible. No maintenance. You just need a bigger chamber for the heavier stuff to fall out of suspension.

ef510dbc534ca957vp2.jpg



Hi Gary.

A self draining setup might be useful. How would you set it up so that it remains a closed system...maybe some sort of one way check valve?
 
I run a catch in my 00 WS6
This is it here. Works well
filterrm2.jpg

The catch can is a Air compressor filter
pvcyg5.jpg

I used air fitting to plumb it.
intakekl7.jpg

This is where it goes into the intake. You can see my N20 full throttle switch
10.gif

It keeps my intake free of oil. I have noticed it dosen't fill up as quick when I switched from M1 to Amsoil. Not sure why.
Mine wasn't for sludge, I haven't see an LSx with that problem but more to stop oil consumption (which it did) and not screw with my tune as I have a nice cam, headers, the N20 and a bunch of other [censored].
 
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