2013 Venza going through oil

Oddly enough it did start consuming the oil faster after I changed yhe PCV.
You changed it?

Earlier you stated that you had it changed.

Who is working on this car?

It's not odd if the wrong spec PCV valve is installed - but it was using too much oil before anyhow.

I have to go grocery shopping - I'll be back later in a couple hours.

- Ken
 
You changed it?

Earlier you stated that you had it changed.

Who is working on this car?

It's not odd if the wrong spec PCV valve is installed - but it was using too much oil before anyhow.

I have to go grocery shopping - I'll be back later in a couple hours.

- Ken
I stand corrected a respected mechanic in my neighborhood changed it. It was not a dealership.
Im going to take to mechanic for a leak down test to start off. I looked up what the test involves and it seems to at least be a starting point.
Ill keep you all posted in the coming weeks what it going on.

Happy New Year😁
 
I suggest running an engine flush/lube product for a short period. (Lubri-Moly, or even Marvel Mystery Oil, for 100 miles). After that, I would change your PCV again using the original Toyota version, even if it is pricey. I would change the oil again to a good brand in whatever weight the factory recommended, obviously full synthetic. Of course, a high-quality oil filter also... maybe even a Toyota filter. After doing that, you have essentially done your reset. Drive and monitor oil usage carefully.

I noted that your oil consumption went from a quart every 1,000 miles to a quart every 500 miles suddenly and concomitant with changing the PCV. My working theory is that your OEM PCV was getting old and causing some oil consumption. Then your mechanic replaced it with a completely defective, though new, unit - more than likely a Chinese product. At 160,000 miles on a well-kept toyota V6 that has had 5,000 mile changes, I would say you could have a little consumption based on wear... although that is unlikely. I would wager that doing as instructed will get you to a tolerable consumption rate of one quart per 2,500 miles. If that doesn't happen, the engine needs to see a mechanic. Assuredly, you cannot do nothing on a modern car consuming a quart every 500 miles.
Best wishes.
 
I stand corrected a respected mechanic in my neighborhood changed it. It was not a dealership.
Im going to take to mechanic for a leak down test to start off. I looked up what the test involves and it seems to at least be a starting point.
Ill keep you all posted in the coming weeks what it going on.

Happy New Year😁
Please see my other post. A leak-down test does not really make sense at this point. You are chasing a sudden change, not gradual wear.
 
Hi Tim,
Thanks for your feedback. At this point even trying to replace PCV with an OEM part is still cheaper than a car loan.
 
Please see my other post. A leak-down test does not really make sense at this point. You are chasing a sudden change, not gradual wear.
Tom a defective PCV would not flow due to the anti-backfire pill being stuck closed. Again if the oriface was incorrect (over)size it would be flowing a lot of air, vacuum would drop and there would possibly be an idle stability problem and an throttle sag. The car was previously using 1qt/1000mi which is excessive. I agree the drop to 500mi per qt was sudden.
But how good was the data keeping, level check process and perception of this loss?

O.P.: Did you notice a rough or surging idle after the PCV was changed?
 
Tom a defective PCV would not flow due to the anti-backfire pill being stuck closed. Again if the oriface was incorrect (over)size it would be flowing a lot of air, vacuum would drop and there would possibly be an idle stability problem and an throttle sag. The car was previously using 1qt/1000mi which is excessive. I agree the drop to 500mi per qt was sudden.
But how good was the data keeping, level check process and perception of this loss?

O.P.: Did you notice a rough or surging idle after the PCV was changed?
I mostly agree, but still advocate replacement as our "null hypothesis" is that things got way worse when the PCV was changed out. It could be stuck open, stuck closed or leaking. The time perception on the oil loss may be wonky, but I accept that this car is burning oil at an unacceptable level. In my experience, failed or failing or defective PCV's seldom show clues in drivability!
 
They can if there's a broken ring.
That happened exactly when the PCV was replaced? On a well-seasoned, low-stressed, well-maintained Toyota V6 that was already burning some oil? I mean, sure, that is a possibility, but a low, low probability. If that's the case, it's game over for that engine most likely, so there is little harm in proceeding conservatively.
 
They can if there's a broken ring.
When that happens they burn a quart in no more than a hundred miles but usually less, smoke a ton while having notably less power, make some noise, and have a vibration at idle.

A quart every thousand is technically within spec even though i heavily disagree with it. I'd still try a compression test but only to do a leak down test right after. A ring might have gotten stuck.
 
Can you describe in detail how you are measuring the oil that is being burned?
 
Tom a defective PCV would not flow due to the anti-backfire pill being stuck closed. Again if the oriface was incorrect (over)size it would be flowing a lot of air, vacuum would drop and there would possibly be an idle stability problem and an throttle sag. The car was previously using 1qt/1000mi which is excessive. I agree the drop to 500mi per qt was sudden.
But how good was the data keeping, level check process and perception of this loss?

O.P.: Did you notice a rough or surging idle after the PCV was changed?
Hi Everyone,
No idling issues, but there does seem loss of power (the get up and go has got up and went).

It is entirely possible that I "missed" how fast it was using only until recently. But i know keeping oil up is key to long lasting engines so I check at least once a month.

For context I've been driving for almost 30 years and have run all 5 cars I've owned well into 150,000+ miles.
I'm going to take to mechanic with your input in mind in terms of what tests should/might/may be run.
 
Interesting situation. I had 294k on my '11 Avalon, now 195k on my 10 Rx350. Friend has 330k on his Sienna. Same engine, no signs of oil consumption, much less to the extent you are describing.

Wouldn't that be at a level that would be prone to killing the cat ?
 
Not a troll. Sorry... Newbie for sure and I posted then went to bed. Bad spelling because the computer keeps changing my words and I have fat thumbs.

Happy Wednesday.
Some people are impatient & start name calling as we see here. You posted at 9:22pm & they posted 7:59am. We'll see if they apologize.
 
Can you do a piston soak on a V engine? Maybe park the car sideways on a hill and do one side at a time?

To the OP: some of us with a Toyota I4 that is notorious for oil burning issues caused by bad piston rings and small drain holes have rescued our engines by soaking the pistons with a strong solvent. The solvent seeps thru the rings and drain holes and unsticks them. Unfortunately I don't think it would be as easy to do on 45º or 60º V engine as a 90º inline.
 
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