What type anti-seize for spark plugs?

I’m done with super used vehicles, so Im usually the first to do plugs on my vehicles. Just like using a tap or die I slowly work plugs in and out if there’s any friction at all. on my previous Hondas the plugs squeaked all the way out. I didn’t have any trouble on the Subies.

The plugs are due for the Legacy, so knock-on-wood I don’t have any issues. Well, besides every Subie being a pain in the butt because boxer!
 
Honestly the past few cars I’ve owned didn’t want you using anti-seize. I’m sure I could have but why do it if they’re telling you not to?

I didn’t have any problem getting the plugs out at 100,000 miles without the anti seize, so I didn’t feel funny about not using it. Well that’s a lie, I did feel funny not using it.

But I think next time regardless - I’ll put just a tiny little dab on there and nit worry about it.
 
I always tighten spark plugs by feel. The gasket crushes and it can be felt, or the taper seats into the cone and it also can be felt. Feel is just right, not too much crush and not too hard into the taper, just right. I never used anti seize because I can never find the tube and don't want to buy another one. The threads seem to be fine later on.
 
I always tighten spark plugs by feel. The gasket crushes and it can be felt, or the taper seats into the cone and it also can be felt. Feel is just right, not too much crush and not too hard into the taper, just right. I never used anti seize because I can never find the tube and don't want to buy another one. The threads seem to be fine later on.
Not on modular Fords. Feels tight is usually too loose and will blow them out.
 
Certain applications do warrant some anti-seize but only a sparing amount. I believe spark plugs in aluminum heads is one application. Steel U-joint caps in aluminum yokes is another. I've heard of people using anti-seize on lugnuts but that just sounds like a bad idea to me.
 
I've used both copper and aluminum anti seize on plugs. I started using anti seize probably about 25 years ago after stripping the threads out of the head on an '88 Escort while trying to remove a plug that had been installed without anti seize. Luckily there was still enough metal left in the plug hole that I was able to re-tap it using lubrication and putting lots of pressure on the other 3 old worn plugs to get the threads started and tapped without having to remove the head. I'd run it about one or two turns then remove the plug and clean the threads. I did this until the plug bottomed out then put in the new plug. I ended up driving the Escort about another 15-20 years and probably about 250-300K more miles. I did a few more plug changes and never had an issue with my thread fix. I'd bought a thread tap to use but it was too big to fit into the area where the plug went. I don't think I'll ever install another set of plugs without anti seize on the threads.
 
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If you would like something in writing, use Permatex Copper. See attached. Having said that I don’t having any. I have the Permatex 133-H which is silver coloured and the new version is labeled Aluminum.

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Originally Posted By: Trav
Reducing torque values by 20% is the common rule of thumb.


I've heard this before but don't beleive it. I mean, the torque wrench dosn't know if the plug has anti-sieze on it. The torque wrench will 'click' at say 20 ft.lbs, with anti-sieze or not. That value dosn't change.

Maybe I'm crazy, but this is what logic tells me.
Bad logic. Lubricated threads allow the fastener to turn a greater angle with the same torque.
 
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