What about a baffled oil pan?
Differences in "flow" (meaning the pressure drop (dP) across a component) between different center tubes and base plates designs is small. The media design and the total media area is the main factor that causes the dP across an oil filter.The nylon center tube on SuperTech filters flow better that 'holes' or 'louvers'.
What kind of racing are you doing? I'd use a K&N HP-2009 for the filter. Any synthetic media filter will do well though, the stock pump isn't moving enough oil to really matter. The oil choice is what I would focus on.
Amsoil OE 5W-20 (and any other API rated oil) is going to be lackluster for any racing use as it leaves a lot to be desired in terms of friction reduction, shear stability, and thermal stability. API oils are restricted on anti-wear and friction modifier additive content due to emissions requirements. They're also limited on base oil interchange due to the way in which API certifications are conducted. Amsoil had to dumb down their OE line, hurt the oil's performance, in order to gain an API rating for it.
The Noack for OE 5W-20 is 8.6% which isn't terrible but not great either, especially for racing use that will see a lot of heat. In that 450-500°F environment around the 2nd and top ring, you want to limit oil evaporation as much as possible. This is even more important to an older engine where the hone is likely more worn down and thus can't hold the oil on the cylinder walls as well. For the same reason of the hone likely being worn a bit, the rings likely spend more time in boundary and mixed lubrication regimes with less oil retention on the walls, and thus an oil with more friction reducing additive will be beneficial as they help in those regimes. It's also likely that there's some carbon deposits and coking around those rings as well which could benefit from an oil that has a good bit of ester with high solubility. Certain esters can clean up those deposits which improves/restores ring seal, reducing blow-by and increasing power. Esters also improve the volatility and thermal and shear stability of the oil which all benefits racing use.
Here's a comparison of the elemental analysis of different oils that could meet your needs alongside Amsoil OE. (based on best available, newest analysis)
View attachment 159055
If it was mine, I would drain 1 quart of the Amsoil OE and add in 1 quart of High Performance Lubricants SAE 30 Engine Cleaner. It's ester based with a full DI, AW, and FM additive package that will blend right in with the OE oil, add solubility to clean well, and improve volatility and thermal stability. Run that combination the rest of this season.
After that, I think you'd be a perfect candidate for the High Performance Lubricants Bad Ass Racing (HPL BAS) 5W-20. You get a load of friction modifier with a standard DI pack that can withstand an entire season on one oil change. Paired with the K&N HP-2009 filter, you'd be good to go.
Hey guys, including the face palm guy, just trying to learn. I appreciate those who responded with some info.
So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.
I wouldn't bother with KN, Wix, or even the Fram marketed as racing filters.I went ahead and ordered the HPL Sae 30 synthetic engine cleaner. I actually have the Amsoil but haven't changed the oil yet as I was waiting to get the filter. Should I use a high mileage synthetic media filter for this season to catch the contaminants the HPL releases, and then go to the K&n HP-2009 next season? I have about 8 more events for the season, give or take an event. It's mostly Rallycross but sprinkling in some autocross.
I'll order the necessary BAS and filter next season for sure.
To address some others that posted:
1. I'm trying my best to learn how to properly maintain a motor that I'm pushing hard. Oil feels like one of the best areas to try and get right and then work on other areas.
2. The oil pickups on these Mustangs are considered highly reliable. I did ask the Mustang community about the need for a baffled pan, but the consensus was the depth of the pan means it is super unlikely I'll pull air. I still may get a baffled pan in the future as piece of mind.
I don't have many pictures but I do have some videos on a gopro. Also thanks for the advice! I figure if I learn proper oil maintenance on this, it will carry over into future vehicles I will own and use for this stuff as well.The K&N HP-2009 will be fine with the HPL EC. Mobil 1 M1-209, Wix 51516, and Fram Endurance FE3600 would be good choices also with the EC. Change the filter after 4 events, top off the oil, and continue the rest of the season.
Amsoil is indeed a very good oil brand. You likely would have no issues on their OE oil. It's just with your use of the engine, you can take advantage of the benefits a good racing oil offers.
Do you have any pictures of it in action?
Also ensure the radiator is totally clean to get max air flow through it.I'm going to change the coolant and dilute the system a bit more and out a 'watter wetter' type additive in to make up for anything the water would be missing as far as coolant system maintenance is concerned.
Yea, it has some bent fins from a life of normal use, but overall the majority of the fins look fine. I don't see any buildup near the cap or when I look down in, so either the coolant was changed properly or it's a newer radiator, though it doesn't look that new.Also ensure the radiator is totally clean to get max air flow through it.
They may look fine, but I've seen radiators that are pretty dirty inside the fins, and a gentle back flush with water can wash a lot of crud out of the fins.Yea, it has some bent fins from a life of normal use, but overall the majority of the fins look fine.
As long as the coolant concentration is within the minimum specified by the manufacturer (often 30%) the water wetter won’t do much if anything.Overall this car is a work in progress but a lot of fun. With the gearing, we are able to stay in 1st gear for most of the course but we are hitting and exceeding the red line on the tachometer and we have also had it get up above normal operating temp for a few minutes after 4 straight hard runs. Fans work, coolant looks fine, we just pushed it harder than the stock setup was designed in a short period of time. We let it come down to normal and it stayed there afterwards so the system is working. I'm going to change the coolant and dilute the system a bit more and out a 'watter wetter' type additive in to make up for anything the water would be missing as far as coolant system maintenance is concerned.
Thanks all! I am doing the clean and flush on the cooling system now, and waiting for the filter and HPL cleaner to come in to do the oil.For your racing, a 70/30 water/AF mix is what I would use. I wouldn't worry about the water wetter. It's main purpose is to prevent nucleate boiling, but the coolant already achieves this. Water wetter and similar supplements are only beneficial when running straight water like in a drag racing setup.
Like @ZeeOSix said, flush the radiator out good. It can clean out crud you may not be able to see, and does no harm at worst.
I would first select an oil that doesn't have an API rating, those are the oils which will have ZDDP levels which are in excess of the levels it takes to get an AP certification....after that, I would select a Royal Purple or Mobil 1 filter that fit my application.Hey all, new here. I am wondering what off the shelf oil filter has the highest flow rate. My use case is to have as good flow as possible but not severe enough to try and find a dedicated racing filter. Oil will be changed seasonally, and the vehicle will only be used for racing events, so hard use but not many miles. Amsoil OE 5w20.
I have an STP XL, but was eyeing getting a Fram Ultra, a Purolator One, or I have heard good things about the WIX stuff, but I'm open to anything, just want best flow, and finding it hard to find numbers for anything.
Hope that's enough info to go on, and thanks in advance.