What Grade Oil For 2013 Tundra

[Alamogunr]

I just bought a 2013 Tundra w/4.6L engine. The owner's manual specifies 0W-20 oil. I thought I had seen that synthetic was also recommended but I can't find such in the manual. Since I use Schaeffer's 5W-30 in my Avalon, I would like to also use it in the Tundra. Schaeffers's doesn't make a 0W-20.

I do not put any stress on a vehicle. I probably won't drive the Tundra over 7.5K per year.
Also, Tennessee does not experience any extremes in temperatures.

What would be the consequences of using 5W-30 instead of 0W-20? Would that be sufficient to reject a warranty claim?

John
W.TN

 

[lubedude13]

For warranty reasons use what it calls for. I use amsoil 0w20 or Kendall 0w20. Pennzoil platinum if you can find it

 

[SwampSurvivor]

They likely would not reject a warranty claim unless they could prove that the use of 5w-30 caused an oil related failure in the engine.

However, 0w-20 works very well for many of them. I'd stick with it.

 

[Rand]

0w20 is synthetic. Cheapest is m1 or PP at walmart for about 25/5qt

 

[supton]

Tundra takes nearly 8qts. At 7,500m/year I'd just buy oil when you need to, since you'll know long ahead of time, and change it yearly.

Warning: I haven't done it myself, but supposedly the oil filter cap is plastic. Some people replace it with the metal Venza cap. Minor modification to the cap required. I haven't done it, just letting you know.

 

[CATERHAM]

The best engine lubricant for your new Tundra is the Mobil made OEM Toyota 0W-20.

 

[Rolla07]

I know my car was back specd, aka can use a number of different types of oil. I dont think it will cause an issue but you might want to just use the bulk 0w20 from the dealer. You can bring your own empty bottles and have them fill it..i hear its pretty cheap and great quality thus hard to beat.

 

[Voltmaster]

Originally Posted By: Rand
0w20 is synthetic. Cheapest is m1 or PP at walmart for about 25/5qt



+1.

Mobil 0w-20 will always be available at Walmart for low price.

 

[y_p_w]

Honda has something they call a 0W-20 semi-synthetic. Of course who knows exactly what it means, and it's still expensive.

 

[panthermike]

It's unfortunate that Schaeffer doesn't make a 0w20 oil. I emailed them a while back and received no response from them unfortunately. They do make a full syn 5w20 now, but that's not going to help you with your warranty. As you may have discerned from my sig, it doesn't bother me at all. I'm using 5w20 in the Civic and not worried about the warranty. Magnuson-Moss protects me there

Not that I won't use 0w20, just thinning an existing stash.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: Alamogunr
What would be the consequences of using 5W-30 instead of 0W-20? Would that be sufficient to reject a warranty claim?

John
W.TN


Alamogunr, Congratulations on your new truck!

This is the way I see it...

I've followed many a warranty related claim thread on the Internet, and also know of a few amongst friends, coworkers and relatives. A claim is almost always an uphill battle. The dealer does not want to do major work at the manufacturer's warranty labor rates (the manufacture does NOT pay them the same rate we pay them!) The Manufacturer doesn't want to pay anything. Not only do you have to have all your ducks in a row, you have to press your case on multiple levels to get anything to happen. The dealer is most happy to let your vehicle sit outside their garage for 3 months instead of work on it.

Those with the strongest case are the ones with a 100% dealer service record. While technically, legally we DIY types stand on the same legal ground as those who use the dealer for service, in reality we DIY types may have to hire (and pay) a lawyer to inform the dealer what legal ground they are, and aren't, standing on.

The end result of most major engine warranty failures is usually a partial settlement- they'll pay X% of the repair, where the value of X is a number calculated by the manufacturer's district rep's gross anatomical functions, and it's a take-it-or-leave-it offer.

What I suggest is that you consider Schaeffer's 5w-20 oil. Take a quart to the dealer and ask if it meets the warranty considerations in your area, particularly since you live in an area that lacks super cold weather.

 

[dparm]

The 5w30 isn't going to really cause any problems, though it might sap a bit of HP and MPG. Since the truck is under warranty, just stick with whatever 0w20 is on sale at the time. There are plenty of good choices -- the Toyota branded stuff is actually one of the best.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Alamogunr
What would be the consequences of using 5W-30 instead of 0W-20? Would that be sufficient to reject a warranty claim?

John
W.TN


Alamogunr, Congratulations on your new truck!

This is the way I see it...

I've followed many a warranty related claim thread on the Internet, and also know of a few amongst friends, coworkers and relatives. A claim is almost always an uphill battle. The dealer does not want to do major work at the manufacturer's warranty labor rates (the manufacture does NOT pay them the same rate we pay them!) The Manufacturer doesn't want to pay anything. Not only do you have to have all your ducks in a row, you have to press your case on multiple levels to get anything to happen. The dealer is most happy to let your vehicle sit outside their garage for 3 months instead of work on it.

Those with the strongest case are the ones with a 100% dealer service record. While technically, legally we DIY types stand on the same legal ground as those who use the dealer for service, in reality we DIY types may have to hire (and pay) a lawyer to inform the dealer what legal ground they are, and aren't, standing on.

The end result of most major engine warranty failures is usually a partial settlement- they'll pay X% of the repair, where the value of X is a number calculated by the manufacturer's district rep's gross anatomical functions, and it's a take-it-or-leave-it offer.

What I suggest is that you consider Schaeffer's 5w-20 oil. Take a quart to the dealer and ask if it meets the warranty considerations in your area, particularly since you live in an area that lacks super cold weather.



Or better yet use the Toyota oil made for Toyota motors and sleep well knowing there won't be any issues whatsoever

 

[RamFan]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The best engine lubricant for your new Tundra is the Mobil made OEM Toyota 0W-20.


Wait, I thought there is no best oil!

 

[Ken2]

Does your owner's manual list other oil possibilities? It may list 5W-30 or 5W-20 where is says that 0W-20 is the best choice or words something like that. The 0W-20 will give the corporation a sliver better gas mileage for their Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE). That is more important to them than it is to any driver. The other oils we're discussing will cause you to burn a fraction of a mph more gas, so little that you'll never know the difference. Worldwide, yes it does make a difference.

If 5W-30 is acceptable anywhere in your manual, it won't be a warranty concern. Technically, if there was engine damage and they claimed your use of the wrong oil caused the damage, they'd have to prove it. Actually, if they play tough guy, you would be the one to prove it didn't cause the damage, and it would cost you a lot. HangFire described it well.

Valvoline's Australian web site is interesting for the oil there recommended for some of the same engines we have. The recommendation for the 2013 Lexus LS460, with the same 4.6 engine you have, shows 0W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30! They don't have the U.S. CAFE consideration.

 

[SatinSilver]

No need to reinvent the wheel buddy.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: RamFan
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The best engine lubricant for your new Tundra is the Mobil made OEM Toyota 0W-20.


Wait, I thought there is no best oil!

But there is a "best" oil choice for a given application and for a new Toyota it's TGMO 0W-20.
One could argue that the Idemitsu made Mazda Moly 0W-20 may be slightly better or the Sustina 0W-20 but they are both more expensive especially Sustina.

 

[simple_gifts]

Is the OCI a year, or 6 months? Lots stress using the correct grade of oil, but throw the time factor out the window.

 

[jimboeau]

Originally Posted By: Rand
0w20 is synthetic. Cheapest is m1 or PP at walmart for about 25/5qt


Cheapest would probably be QSUD 0W20.

 

[Pablo]

Amsoil OE 0W-20.