2016 Honda Odyssey. I just had the tires balanced and rotated. When braking, I get a vibration. It seems to occur at higher speeds and is more prominent on the right side. While in the Black Hills a couple of weeks ago, it was more noticeable going down hill. What might the issue be, other than brake pads?
Vibration on braking
- Thread starter otis24
- Start date
Rotor.
Sometimes a worn control arm bushing can contribute to vibrations like that especially when compressed. My old Volvo has a strut rod with bushings that connect to the control arm. The bushings are conical and wear from continued compression. The vibration mimics warped rotors.
If it is only single-sided, then it could be corrosion of the one rotor. It has just happened to my sister's Toyota. She is very gentle on brakes and does not drive a lot. One of the rotors has developed deep corrosion spots, while the other side looked completely normal. The usual post-rain corrosion that was on the surface of the healthy rotor disappeared after a few brake applications, while the deep corrosion spots on the unhealthy rotor were persistent.
This^^^^^^, so check the lug nut torque.
In Toyota and Honda brakes are theoretical concept.
Expect that. Unless you go ENC, HAWK and few others that have high carbon compound.
Is it temperature-related (brakes hot due to repeated braking) or speed related (happens at higher speeds when the brakes are quite cold). Take into account that it takes several minutes for the rotors to cool down.
Undersized brakes need to get hot to start to vibrate and in my limited experience, the vibration disappears once the brakes cool down - as long as one provides enough time for the brakes to cool down before the car is stopped the damage is not permanent.
Undersized brakes need to get hot to start to vibrate and in my limited experience, the vibration disappears once the brakes cool down - as long as one provides enough time for the brakes to cool down before the car is stopped the damage is not permanent.
If the vibration just started after having the wheels off ........... it only makes sense that the wheels weren't properly torqued .
I had a 2004 GTO that was very sensitive to lug nut torque. I didn't let anyone touch them after I figured it out. All brake work, tire rotations, and suspension work was done by me. I never had a problem from that point on.
While it not 100% this is a good indicator of possible corrosion on back of the aluminum wheel hub and/or corrosion on the brake rotor hub face where it contacts the wheel. The corrosion moves with the wheel and may be on top of corrosion left behind by the previously wheel. Just remove each wheel and clean the back of the wheel hub with a drill mounted wire wheel and the rotor face.
Do not get crazy and start removing the aluminum just the corrosion, coat with thin layer of aluminum never seize, torque to spec in across manner. Try it, it is free and only takes a few min per wheel.
As a former owner of an Odyssey, I can almost guarentee you it is the rotors. What is commonly referred to as “warped rotors” is almost certainly “uneven pad transfer.” That oocurs when brake pads exceed their design limit for temps and pad material “melts” onto the rotors. Sometimes you can even see it on the fronts, which do by far the most work. It can look like a smear of peanut butter, strange as that sounds. Honda discs can not generally be turned as they are not made with hardly any extra material. I have had good luck with Centric 120 series rotors. Also, go ahead and replace the pads at the same time, then torque the lugs with a torque wrench.
I have been telling this. It is super easy to exceeds limit on these vehicles. Pretty much anything but dropping kids to school and similar stuff, it is done. They are undersized, so only upgrade will work better. For my Sienna EBC Premium worked good. OE Toyota, Advics, Reybestos, it is junk IMO.
It’s Vibrating When Braking & It’s Not the Rotors. How to Test! (Nissan Versa) - YouTube
Something else to consider
Something else to consider
Which miles on your vehicle? Still on factory rotors and pads?
If you had them replaced by then that job maybe have insufficiently
thoroughly done. Very most shops miss to clean the hubs, resulting
in tottering rotors and as another consequence, after some a couple
of thousand miles, varying thickness, which makes some permanent
judder.
.
I would guess it's a warped rotor. Buy new front rotors and pads.
I was also thinking like Trav.....if this happened after wheels were removed, you could have crap/rust jacking/debris at the WMS or even under the rotor if the rotor can move when the wheels are off (some vehicles use hold down screws which may or may not be present)
Tire shops grip it 'n rip it so they're not watching the little details
Tire shops grip it 'n rip it so they're not watching the little details
Lol. I call it "american brakes". (No pun intended.)
While visiting USA I was always amazed to see various sedans with amazing V6/V8 engines, big low-profile wheels, and tiny brake rotors. In Europe, the more powerful engine the car has, the bigger brakes it gets as a standard. If the new model gets heavier than the old one, the rotor diameter is bumped up as well (This happened with my civic - the new 9G model was similar to previous generation - both had almost same 1.8 N/A ICE, approx 140 HP and the front rotors fro the 9G were bumped from 282 mm to 293mm to compensate the increased weight.).
Crossing the Sierra Nevada in a hot summer driving a rented Chevrolet was no fun - brakes vibrating from the heat while going downhill were a surprise as I did my best not to overheat them being aware it has normal US brakes. (At that time we rented a small sedan from Chevrolet if I remember correctly.) As I knew what is going on I let the brakes cool down while driving without a full stop so there was no permanent damage.
The current japan-made Toyota Camry Hybrid for the European markets has 328 mm front brake rotors as a standard. The same car Toyota Camry Hybrid US version - both LE and XSE trims get 304 mm rotors and only the TRD gets 328 mm.
