Valvoline to Mobile 1- Truck Runs better?

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Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Oh boy
Now we are having oil compared to dirty stomach water and old milk
What next??

LOL This....
Quote:
There have been testing done that show MORE wear with more frequent oil changes. Fresh oil will strip the boundry layer of additives off and take upwards to 1,000 mi. to replace. So with more frequent OC's you are constantly stripping and re-applying

I will wait for an accredited link...
 
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Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
doing your oil changes at 3000 miles is a waste and could be doing more harm than good


Many people would believe that and the government probably has 80% of the population believing that. As far as doing more harm then good, I don't consider it harm, again, I've NEVER (NEVER) owned a vehicle that hadn't run past 250,000 miles without requiring a rebuild or replacement. I'm a 192,000 from a half a million on my Silverado's 5.3. When I get there, call it luck, I call it taking care of an investment. My neighbor calls me crazy, when he see's me outside the garage waxing the mowers once a month. But I see many guys running around here with rusted out mowers, we have over $150k tied up in our mowers and have never seen a rust issue out of ANY of the mowers. 300,000 miles isn't un-heard of with many engines out there, including the 5.3, even from people that take sub-par care of them, 300,000 miles that pulls a 2500lb. trailer loaded down every day of it's life Monday - Saturday with heavy weight is a lot of miles. And not if, WHEN it hit's 500,000 I'm going to take a picture of it loaded down with 500k on the odometer holding up a sign that said thanks to the 3k oil changes.
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Lawnsbymike mentioned the 5.7 Chev being labeled as "high wearing", but facts prove otherwise.

When old design V8 engines were converted to LPG, they lasted forever.

Gone were the gasoline carburetors, cold start cylinder washing and fuel in the engine oil.

I keep reading the same thing over and over in Lawnsbymike's posts.

He is not telling anyone else what to do, he does not care what anyone else does
and he is not insulting anyone when doing so.

Lawwnsbymike is going to do what Lawnsbymike does.

At least he is not trying to win an argument with his computer.
 
Originally Posted By: used_0il
Lawnsbymike mentioned the 5.7 Chev being labeled as "high wearing", but facts prove otherwise.

When old design V8 engines were converted to LPG, they lasted forever.

Gone were the gasoline carburetors, cold start cylinder washing and fuel in the engine oil.

I keep reading the same thing over and over in Lawnsbymike's posts.

He is not telling anyone else what to do, he does not care what anyone else does
and he is not insulting anyone when doing so.

Lawwnsbymike is going to do what Lawnsbymike does.

At least he is not trying to win an argument with his computer.


Thank you sir. That's indeed correct, and by all means if you can get 10,000, 15,000, or even 25,000 out of an oil change, don't listen to me, do what's working for you. LawnsbyMike does what works for him.
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+1 what he said re: the OCI.

Max Life is a great motor oil. Heck, you've gotten LOTS of miles out of it. So is M1, so use whatever floats your boat.The Maxlife is outstanding for older vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: lawnsbymike
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
doing your oil changes at 3000 miles is a waste and could be doing more harm than good


Many people would believe that and the government probably has 80% of the population believing that. As far as doing more harm then good, I don't consider it harm, again, I've NEVER (NEVER) owned a vehicle that hadn't run past 250,000 miles without requiring a rebuild or replacement. I'm a 192,000 from a half a million on my Silverado's 5.3. When I get there, call it luck, I call it taking care of an investment. My neighbor calls me crazy, when he see's me outside the garage waxing the mowers once a month. But I see many guys running around here with rusted out mowers, we have over $150k tied up in our mowers and have never seen a rust issue out of ANY of the mowers. 300,000 miles isn't un-heard of with many engines out there, including the 5.3, even from people that take sub-par care of them, 300,000 miles that pulls a 2500lb. trailer loaded down every day of it's life Monday - Saturday with heavy weight is a lot of miles. And not if, WHEN it hit's 500,000 I'm going to take a picture of it loaded down with 500k on the odometer holding up a sign that said thanks to the 3k oil changes.
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The reason for me posting in this thread wasn't to attack your OCI's, I personally don't agree with your regimen, but thats neither here nor there.
You posted that your 3,000 mi. OCI, 50 hrs. OCI were your key to longevity, and in saying so you are ridiculing engineers at two very large manufacturers(GM & Deere). I took exception to the fact that "seat of the pants" your equipment runs better and longer due to short OCI with no evidence to back up your claims.

I like you am a small business owner and take maintainence of my equipment very seriously. If I am buying a piece of equipment and its scheduled at x hrs. I change and UOA to see where I'm at. You cannot go wrong following the owners manual, and if for some reason you have to cut your OC in half, or more than half there is a serious problem that needs to be addressed.

I don't own any modern GM's with the OLM, but everything I've read is that they're very conservative, so dumping at 3,000 mi. is a complete waste, you're dumping perfectly fine oil and replacing with perfectly fine oil.

Deere is one of the most well respected manufacturers of equipment world-wide and to state that their recommendation needs to be cut in half is comical as no manufacturer wants to be tagged with extending OC's cuts life expectancy. I'm sure that them, along with the GM OLM is VERY conservative.
 
Originally Posted By: lawnsbymike
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
doing your oil changes at 3000 miles is a waste and could be doing more harm than good


Many people would believe that and the government probably has 80% of the population believing that. As far as doing more harm then good, I don't consider it harm, again, I've NEVER (NEVER) owned a vehicle that hadn't run past 250,000 miles without requiring a rebuild or replacement. I'm a 192,000 from a half a million on my Silverado's 5.3. When I get there, call it luck, I call it taking care of an investment. My neighbor calls me crazy, when he see's me outside the garage waxing the mowers once a month. But I see many guys running around here with rusted out mowers, we have over $150k tied up in our mowers and have never seen a rust issue out of ANY of the mowers. 300,000 miles isn't un-heard of with many engines out there, including the 5.3, even from people that take sub-par care of them, 300,000 miles that pulls a 2500lb. trailer loaded down every day of it's life Monday - Saturday with heavy weight is a lot of miles. And not if, WHEN it hit's 500,000 I'm going to take a picture of it loaded down with 500k on the odometer holding up a sign that said thanks to the 3k oil changes.
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Haha I do the exact same thing after I mow my yard each time,I spray off my mower really well and spray some nano wax on it. I also clean my tools every time I'm through using them before I put them up.
 
Originally Posted By: lawnsbymike
Quick Question for you....


What is physically wrong to the engine to change the oil at 3k miles with synthetic?


Would you be happier and healthier if you had clean constantly flushing your system or if you were drinking dirty oil. I sleep at night with 3k mile oil changes. Every single oil change I can feel and hear the difference in the idle of my engine after fresh oil is put in. I don't know about you, but the sound of an engine tells me a lot. If I was had dirty water in my stomach you would probably hear my tummy making some funny noises, not to mention my tummy wouldn't be happy.


I'm not one to argue if 5k, 10k, or 15k oil change are bad, I personally don't care. However, in my opinion, I run 3,000 mile oil changes. Never had or sold a vehicle that hasn't ran over 250,000 miles without even hick upping. Waters good for your body, water with dirt is not. Milk is good for your body, spoiled milk is not. My tummy's happier at night with clean milk in my stomach, my bodies happier with clean water in it, and my engines are happier by listening to the sound of them, with clean gold oil in them.
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This comparo makes no sense.


And youve got knowledgeable members telling you that more frequent oil changes strip the anti-wear layer off,which will increase wear,until the new oil lays down its anti-wear layer.
Yet you stand there on your soap box refusing to believe it.
What is obviously going over your head is the term serviceable oil.
You are draining serviceable oil to replace it with serviceable oil. Just because it's black doesn't mean in any way that it's dirty and leaving that dirt behind.
You come here asking questions then when they are answered you ignore it and say we are wrong.
So why did you even bother asking?
Every answer you've gotten is basically saying the same thing,yet you refuse to believe it.
By the way the earth is round too.
Just because your mind is closed to learn doesn't make the facts change.
A 3000 mile interval on your truck is absurd. I have a small fleet of them.
If you truly believe that all those engines achieved the mileages they did because you did frequent oil changes then bud I've got a bridge in every city to sell you,cheap. You can charge tolls on them and get set up to retire.
Since your here open your mind and learn something.
You think 3000 mile oil changes are keeping your engine clean do ya.
Well Tig can show you pics of his spotless engine internals at 10000 mile intervals,I can show you pics of 2 spotless first gen LS engines that I own running 10000 mile intervals too. In fact I'll put a stack of folding cash on that most every member here running extended drains can show you pics of their clean engines too.
So get over yourself.
And you touched on additive depletion. Exactly what additives do you think are getting depleted that they require a complete drain to help.
None of the anti-wear agents nor the friction modifiers deplete in any meaningful way during an interval. What depletes is the tbn,not the anti-wear agents,and those are what affect wear for the most part.
Look at Amsoil's best oil. It's rated for 25000 miles. The anti-wear and friction modifiers aren't really much higher than oils meant for half the mileage.
Why?
Because they don't get depleted. What gets depleted is the oils acid neutralizing ability and a quart of make up oil every 10000 miles cures that.
Let me guess. Your one of those guys that think because the oils black it needs to be changed. Obviously.
I'll bet you think synthetic oil is more slippery too.
Wrong again.
The benefits to synthetics are extended intervals. They don't reduce wear vs their conventional counterparts. If you bothered to educate yourself before opening your mouth and inserting your foot you'd have learned that there is no wear difference between a syn or conventional when running a 5000 mile interval. In fact mineral oil has an edge because they are polar on such a short interval.
So you are spending more money for absolutely no gain.
A fool and his money.......
And just to add to your data point of high mileage vehicles getting there because you changed the oil frequently I've got work vans with 450k,personal vehicles nearing 300k,and in the past I've driven 2 different trucks to the 450k mileage and they ran fantastic when totalled or broken beyond fiscally responsible repair.
All my vehicles run a 10000 mile drain and in the case of the work vans they are fully loaded with tools including a generator,air compressor and tools enough for a 5 man framing crew and they have strong running engines that have never been opened up running 10k intervals using the cheapest oil I can find.
So wake up,because your dreaming if you've fooled yourself into believing your 3000 mile oil change intervals made that happen.
I can show you a dozen examples of engines running well beyond those miles using a lesser oil at triple the mileage interval.
I find it amusing that you start a thread here,get answers,refuse to believe the answers and dismiss them like you're an expert.
I suggest re-reading this thread,absorbing the answers and thanking everyone for sharing.
Or just keep doing what your doing because you think it's best,and you would be wrong.
The funniest part I've read is that on oil with 3000 miles you've convinced yourself the engine sounds better with new oil.
That's funny. Because oil actually requires oxidation to activate the anti-wear agents and heat. So your new oil is actually less effective than the oil you dumped.
But the mind is a powerful thing,as proven but the notions you've convinced yourself of.
No one here has anything to teach you as you already know it all.
You even had Dnewton answer you. This guy has multiple thousands of uoa,compiled from over a decade being here,as well as acquiring them elsewhere. He has so much real data,that reflects hundreds of different brands of engines it would make your head spin,yet you ignore his advice.
He has real world data from which he derives his opinion which you dismiss.
Perhaps you get all your data and info from commercials. Heaven knows the marketing departments of oil companies certainly is the right place to learn from. Did you know if a pretty girl in a bikini changes your oil your live forever.
And your water comparison isn't even remotely relevant. Nor is it apples to apples.
I've got a great idea. How about I dump serviceable oil,and replace it with serviceable oil. Good idea?
Maybe try the search function. I was surprised to learn that brand new oil in bottles isn't as clean,based on particle counts,as used oil is as long as the filter is still serviceable.
So that new "clean" oil your pouring in is actually less clean than what's coming out. Just because the oil is black in no way means it's dirty.
Apparently you need to adjust your entire outlook on today's lubricants and their abilities because you aren't even stuck in yesterday.
I'll apologize right now for this post if it offends you. I'm not trying to offen you however your the type of guy who is set in his ways no matter how backwards,and you won't admit your wrong therefore you need to be addressed in a way that will make you question what you think you know.
The only way to do that is to challenge you as I have in this post. Only then will you did deeper,in order to prove me wrong,and while you did you'll see the points that were made by myself and others were right,and then you'll learn.
Because right now the gates are shut,and that's sad. Life is learning Donetsk g everyday. You aren't learning which stunts you in all aspects of your life.
Do you really want to be sitting around with your buddies,spouting off all that nonsense you've posted only to be corrected and look foolish in front of everyone.
Or would you rather be the guy doing the correcting. That's your choice,because it is a choice. You can choose to learn,to evolve,or you can ignore truth and face extinction.
Would you rather sit in the garage and teach your son truth,or feed him that nonsense you've posted here,so that he goes out and repeats you,and he gets corrected and looks like a fool and in his mind his dad,his hero,the man who has taught him everything is wrong and he looks the fool because of something you taught him.
It's your call.
There was a time people believed the sun revolved around the earth and the earth was the center of the universe,And there was a time the world was thought to be flat.
Those stubborn people refused to believe the truth and in the process they lost something more valuable than money.
Sit down. Read some threads. Open your mind. Stay awhile. We are glad to have ya.
You'll find we have some very,very smart people here. We've got novelists,engineers,IT technicians,mechanics,tribologists and everything in between.
I learn something new here every single day. I've learned things here that at one time would have bet my life on and I was wrong.
I was once like you. Bullheaded,refused to believe what I was being told. To be honest common sense does tell me that new oil is better than old and that short intervals are better than extending them but the engineering department here at bitog has proven to me that what I thought was common sense was wrong,and I was explained why it was wrong.
If you stay long enough you'll see. From where your standing bitog is a brave new world,challenging all you think you know about oil.
Are you up for the challenge. Will you hear the call. Or will you forever remain decades behind b
Yes the 60s built some bad a$$ cars,but the oil sucked. You are trying to keep that manner of thinking today,and it no longer applies.
There will be a planet of the apes moment where it hits you and you'll then see its open eyes,first you gotta hear(see) the words.
 
Since I'm here... OP, Valvoline is garbage so your OCI is spot-on. Do a UOA after 10k on M1 and you will discover that you could have kept it in longer.

Save your cash. You'll crash it or get rid of it for something else long before your black oil kills the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: lawnsbymike
Originally Posted By: used_0il
Lawnsbymike mentioned the 5.7 Chev being labeled as "high wearing", but facts prove otherwise.

When old design V8 engines were converted to LPG, they lasted forever.

Gone were the gasoline carburetors, cold start cylinder washing and fuel in the engine oil.

I keep reading the same thing over and over in Lawnsbymike's posts.

He is not telling anyone else what to do, he does not care what anyone else does
and he is not insulting anyone when doing so.

Lawwnsbymike is going to do what Lawnsbymike does.

At least he is not trying to win an argument with his computer.


Thank you sir. That's indeed correct, and by all means if you can get 10,000, 15,000, or even 25,000 out of an oil change, don't listen to me, do what's working for you. LawnsbyMike does what works for him.
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Again, do whatever you want.

But why not change your oil at 500 miles? That's the original OCI the Model T's did. Or maybe go dangerous and change it at 2000 miles with Kendell's revolutionary new additive technology, circa the 1930's...
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: tojo1968
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Oh boy
Now we are having oil compared to dirty stomach water and old milk
What next??

LOL This....
Quote:
There have been testing done that show MORE wear with more frequent oil changes. Fresh oil will strip the boundry layer of additives off and take upwards to 1,000 mi. to replace. So with more frequent OC's you are constantly stripping and re-applying

I will wait for an accredited link...

Quote:
And youve got knowledgeable members telling you that more frequent oil changes strip the anti-wear layer off,which will increase wear,until the new oil lays down its anti-wear layer.

Still waiting for a credible link for this claim. Google had one that directed me right to a BITOG thread and it was shot down faster that a Louisiana duck in December!!
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Read the front page of BITOG for the paper by Dave Newton.


That's not a credible source. Dave's interpretation of the SAE paper that he uses to support his claims is not correct.

Ed
 
The OP needs a uoa/tbn/tan to understand.
Maxlife full synth is a good oil.
Mobil-1 is too.

Do you change the brake fluid, PSF, antifreeze, diffs gear oil, ujoint grease, ATF, xfer case fluid often too???
 
Changing a brand/type of oil can cause a cleaning effect that can make for really black oil.

MMO is aproximately 5W oil which can cause a cleaning effect.
 
Business is busy this week and I haven't had time to stop by. Chevy, I appreciate all your input, and don't think I take it with a grain or salt, I get your just trying to state your opinion. Just like I state mine. I'll be around here in my free time, as you said there's many knowledgeable people here, along with knowledgeable information, which I love reading when I get bored.

As far as oci's, you state your opinion, you do as you please. If it works for you, keep working it. Me myself, I'll keep working what I believe. Quality oil is to cheap these days for me to go the other way. My oil as three purposes, to lubricate, protect, and constantly clean my engine. Basic physics tell us what causes the oil to become dirty. My engine oil is constantly cleaning the engine, and basic physics tell us dirty oil isn't good for an engine. If it was, why not just run 100,000 miles without changing it? With that said, that my oils constantly cleaning, I myself just refuse and will not exercise the practice of running oil for 10,000 miles, that's been cleaning my engine over that entire period, whether Johnny says it's good, pen and paper says it's good, or JoJo the tech on YouTube says it's good.

As for the mentioning about the John Deere and factories recommendations, and challenging their techs myth's, sure they may be a reputable company. Sure their techs might be very intelligent people. The FH engines we ran for so long, we're VERY GOOD engines, yet they had one known problem. The dang block seals always seemed to leak at 1,500 hours or greater. Now take a survey with JD and FH engine owners with the same issue, ask them about their oil change intervals. I take that back, I already took the survey. All the leaks came from 100+ hour oil changes. When we followed JD's schedule, we had three leaking seals on three FH engines at 1,500-2,000 hours on each one. Next fleet we upgraded equipment, yet the same FH engines before the EPA started making all the restrictions. We switched over to 50 hour intervals, and are at 4,000 hours on many of the machines with no leaky seals. Did they change the seals? No. Same part number. We decided to rebuild all three of these engines completely. Yet these "intelligent" engineers told me three different times we could replace the seals and not the bushings, due to them being cast into the block. A day later I had them all three pulled out of the block, ACME custom sized bushings ordered, and pressed in on all three engines with no more leaks. John Deere's response? We'll sell you a new engine. Sure I bet you will, I don't knock them for making money, but come on? You recommend all these people 100 hour oil changes, these seals are going bad right after warranty periods expire, and all you want to do is sell a long time customer an engine?

In my opinion, 10,000 mile oil that is contaminated and circulated in the engine is not as good for an engine, the seals, the metal, or any of the parts internally in the engine, no matter what any test, pen and paper, or Johnny the TECH says. The same engineers that tell you "It's all good, buy our car! You only need to change the oil every 10,000 miles" are the same ones that tell you this after your car leaves you stranded 1,000 miles away from home. "We'll sell you a new engine."

Sure technology has advanced, computers have taken over cars, oils have improved, engines burn a bit cleaner, the fact is, in my opinion, the purpose of oil has not changed. The basic concept of many of the internal parts have not changed. Whether your driving a Ferrari with a horse, or a 68" Chevelle, the oil still has the same purpose of cleaning, the oil still gets contaminated over time, and even with the upgraded computers, upgraded technology, and better oil contamination in the oil over 10,000 miles DOES NOT HELP an engine, but it does hurt engines I've seen it first hand.

If you run 10,000 mile oci's and have "never had an issue." More power to you, and you get a BIG CONGRATULATIONS. But do a simple search on Google, there is 25,000 pages of people talking about "sledged engines, blown engines, to various other oil related problems" although the dealers say it's all fine and dandy. I myself in 34 years have NEVER had neither of these issues. And to the people that have, I'm sorry when you go to the dealer, because you know what their answer is, "We'll Sell You A New Engine."

It's cool that you and others can do it, but I'm not others. I'll stick to what has worked for me for 34 years, because for some reason if I started doing my oci's at 10,000 miles and I became one of these many thousands of people that have a "sledged" engines I know, I know, I know, the dealer will be more than happy to SELL me an engine. As of right now, I'm happy with my engines, I'm happy with my 3k engines, and I'm happy that they don't need to SELL ME an engine after warranty.
 
lawnsbymike,
I disagree with most everything you said. I will stick with what's worked for me for 36 years. 10K OCIs, clean engines, engines that have never shown any sign of pre-mature wear. OH! Welcome to BITOG.
welcome2.gif
 
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