Valve adjustment, 2002 Accord 114,000 miles (pics)

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Originally Posted By: Gito
Own a Honda Civic 91 Si with 455,601 miles and have never adjusted the valves. Im the original owner. I think its time to adjust the valves....



[censored] if you have no pics.
 
455,601 was my last oil change using a supertech walmart filter(3593A) and Chevron 5w-30
 
Advantages of being in California!

You need to buy Meguiars Ultimate Compound for the paint though. I bet there is lot of life left underneath on that paint.
 
lol, interesting you say that...I just purchased a Porter Cable 7424xp for the same reason. The oxidation is really bad..
 
I have used many types of oil, oil filters throughout the life of the car. Have used 5w-30 mostly but a few times have used the 10w-30. I have replaced(myself) a total of 8 drive axles(lifetime warranty) on the car, 2 knuckles, 4 tie rod ends, 2 wheel bearings on each side due to the car being lowered from 1992-2003. Have not had a problem with any suspension parts since returning the car to original height. I was young and dumb. I have replaced(myself) a total of 5 alternators(lifetime), 5 distributors(lifetime), and 2 radiators. I finally gave up on the lifetime Autozone distributors and upgraded to a Heavy Duty distributor. I just replaced the main relay this year and solved my hard to start mornings and hard to start on hot days. As for the alternators being replaced so many times, all I can say is that I must have some kind of short but for the first time this cheap lifetime alternator from autozone has gone 2 years without a problem. I will give up on the lifetime autozone alternator the next time it goes out. I found a manufacture that carries heavy duty alternators. The car still gets 35-40mpg consistently. I have AC and blows cold but converted to 134 and no longer run on R-12. I drove my 91 Civic out of the Honda Dealer in Oct of 1990. The only thing I regret was not taking a picture with the car before driving out of the lot. I have a friend with a 90 honda accord that has approx 425,000 miles and actually looks way better than my car. I garaged it for a good part of its life until 2003. the car has been outdoors since 2003 and has taken a beating. 5 speed tranny gave up on me at around 395,000 miles.

Have always used the original plugs and wires but once used the split fire and other platinum plugs that I regret. Those mentioned plugs are bad for our cars. Again, young and dumb and trusted pepboys, autozone counter...don't listen to those guys.

I got tired of the car at 300,000 miles and wanted to actually give it away. Gas shot up and I was driving "Gold". My plan is to give it away to a relative once I find an 87 300sdl Benz with a head casting number 22 that is in near perfect condition. I drive, in my humble opinion, some of the best engines ever made and that includes my 617.950 w116 300sd, 2002 silverado 5.3 and w108 280sel Benz.
 
Originally Posted By: Gito
lol, interesting you say that...I just purchased a Porter Cable 7424xp for the same reason. The oxidation is really bad..


Please do a before and after pictures. If you have not already ordered M105 and M205, just get the UC ($9.00) from local Walmart and have fun.
 
I'm not sure which steps I have to take when using the porter cable. I do know that the porter cable comes with a couple of pads. I will purchase the Meguiars UC at Walmart and see what happens. Again, I have never used a porter cable so I would like some suggestions or instructions..which pads do I need to use?
 
Did you buy any pads with porter cable? if not, just try the one which came with it. I am assuming it came with a generic wool-looking pad. That works well with UC. There are probably million videos on how to use PC but here is what I would suggest first.

From Walmart, pick up UC, foam applicator (size of a bar of soap i.e. to be used by hand) and few microfiber towels (all in all well under $20). Wash the car with dish washing soap. Select a 2x2 section and use the foam pads by hand and rub the UC on the paint in overlapping circular motions until the UC changes from white in to transparent. You will need to apply some pressure i.e. put some passion behind it. Wipe off the residue with the microfiber towel. Most critical thing is not to let UC dry on the paint.

If you don't say "Holy Mackerel" to yourself, come back here and start uttering obscenities in my general direction :)

Otherwise, take the PC and use that rather than your muscles to rub the UC on the rest of the car. Work on 2x2 sections.

Take LOTS of pictures!!

You can find more elaborate instructions and lot more products to use to make the car enter in to concors-de-eleganc (spelling??) but just doing what I suggest would make such a huge difference in the paint that you would wonder why you did not do it before.

Sure you could clay bar it first, then UC it, the polish it, then wax it, then seal etc etc but try most bang for bucks approach first.

If you really want to buy pads for your PC, I would suggest Meguairs Burgundy Foam pad for the oxidation removal although most will suggest the Lake Country Orange pad for this process. I have personally used the Meguairs and not LC.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Did you buy any pads with porter cable? if not, just try the one which came with it. I am assuming it came with a generic wool-looking pad. That works well with UC. There are probably million videos on how to use PC but here is what I would suggest first.

From Walmart, pick up UC, foam applicator (size of a bar of soap i.e. to be used by hand) and few microfiber towels (all in all well under $20). Wash the car with dish washing soap. Select a 2x2 section and use the foam pads by hand and rub the UC on the paint in overlapping circular motions until the UC changes from white in to transparent. You will need to apply some pressure i.e. put some passion behind it. Wipe off the residue with the microfiber towel. Most critical thing is not to let UC dry on the paint.

If you don't say "Holy Mackerel" to yourself, come back here and start uttering obscenities in my general direction :)

Otherwise, take the PC and use that rather than your muscles to rub the UC on the rest of the car. Work on 2x2 sections.

Take LOTS of pictures!!

You can find more elaborate instructions and lot more products to use to make the car enter in to concors-de-eleganc (spelling??) but just doing what I suggest would make such a huge difference in the paint that you would wonder why you did not do it before.

Sure you could clay bar it first, then UC it, the polish it, then wax it, then seal etc etc but try most bang for bucks approach first.

If you really want to buy pads for your PC, I would suggest Meguairs Burgundy Foam pad for the oxidation removal although most will suggest the Lake Country Orange pad for this process. I have personally used the Meguairs and not LC.


Which back plate size should I purchase. I have seen the 5 inch recommended but wondering what is wrong with the 6 inch. I own a porter cable 7424xp and the backplates that I have been looking at are by Lake Country. Any particular website with good deals? Any stores where I can actually see and feel what I'm buying?
 
I am using 5 inch backing plate and 6.5 inch pads. I thought PC 7424xp already has the 5 inch velcro backing plate. If it does not, then pick one up. Meguairs makes backing plate too. Amazon is your best bet for best deal if you stay with Meguairs. You really don't want to go with the larger pads. The 6 inch backing plate will take 8 inch pads and those are just too big both from handling and power perspective.

As far as local stores, may be you can visit the factory :) They are somewhere in the Orange County.

http://www.amazon.com/POLISHER-BUFFER-BA...r+backing+plate

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-6-5-Inch-Soft-Buff-Cutting/dp/B0002VAZA2/ref=pd_sim_auto_2

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-6-5-Inch-Soft-Buff-Polishing/dp/B0002UQAXY/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am using 5 inch backing plate and 6.5 inch pads. I thought PC 7424xp already has the 5 inch velcro backing plate. If it does not, then pick one up. Meguairs makes backing plate too. Amazon is your best bet for best deal if you stay with Meguairs. You really don't want to go with the larger pads. The 6 inch backing plate will take 8 inch pads and those are just too big both from handling and power perspective.

As far as local stores, may be you can visit the factory :) They are somewhere in the Orange County.

http://www.amazon.com/POLISHER-BUFFER-BA...r+backing+plate

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-6-5-Inch-Soft-Buff-Cutting/dp/B0002VAZA2/ref=pd_sim_auto_2

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-6-5-Inch-Soft-Buff-Polishing/dp/B0002UQAXY/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y




Got it....Did you not mention an orange pad for heavy oxidation...What exact pads would I need to bring back the color....I can purchase other pads for detail later but I need those pads that will make a huge difference first and then work my way up to the other detailing pads...What would be the order that I would use such pads...

Thanks
 
Whatever you do, keep your working area wet and cool.

I got so busy working the compounds that I forgot to keep it cool. The result is not pretty. Delaminated the clear coat.

*hangs head*
 
Originally Posted By: stranger706
The OCI history is a split between Valvoline quick lube and the Honda dealer up to the point of me buying it.

Right now it has Eneos 0w20.


What do you think of that oil. I saw if for the first time last week at my local napa,I stood and looked at it for awhile but I was going in to get a couple quarts of AFE.
I glad I didn't buy it right then as Caterham informed me it isn't the sustainable line with the high viscosity index.
But anyways what's your impressions on the oil,what was in it before and how do they compare to each other
 
Meguair's Maroon pad is (probably) equivalent to LC's orange pad. I had given the link for the former. It is called SoftBuf cutting pad. By the way, I still think you should visit local Walmart and get the Ultimate Compound, foam pads and do a small section by hand first before ordering anything on the internet. The UC bottle can be used with the buffer later and the hand pads can always be used in hard to reach places where the buffer will be too big. So you will not be wasting any money but would get immediate preview of expected results.

RE: Delaminated the clear coat.

I am assuming you were using rotary buffer with good oomph! Since OP would be using DA, it is highly unlikely that he could take the clear coat off the paint with DA! At least I hope so :)
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: stranger706
The OCI history is a split between Valvoline quick lube and the Honda dealer up to the point of me buying it.

Right now it has Eneos 0w20.


What do you think of that oil. I saw if for the first time last week at my local napa,I stood and looked at it for awhile but I was going in to get a couple quarts of AFE.
I glad I didn't buy it right then as Caterham informed me it isn't the sustainable line with the high viscosity index.
But anyways what's your impressions on the oil,what was in it before and how do they compare to each other


Too pricey for me to keep using. My Accord used a quart of it every 2000 miles. I only had 6 quarts on hand from awhile back.

Other than that, no problems to report. Seem to run pretty good on it. Based on the rev hang between gear shifts, I'd say this oil has pretty low friction. Got my best tank average on this oil. 33 mpg 80/20 hwy/city. (Note: Rotella T6 is great for rev hang)

Now running PYB HM 5w20 to help with consumption.
 
Thanks.
Your right about cost. Walmart has me spoiled. I refuse to pay more than 25 bucks a jug now and stock up(like I need too,my hoard is already comparable to the oil sands) when the rollbacks happen.
I'm using the 0w-20 AFE for the first time. So far I'm pretty happy with it. I wish it would go on rollback like the pennzoil products do.
 
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