VA Safety inspection woes
- Thread starter M1Accord
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Or try RockAuto.com. Amazing how cheap these kinds of part are.
I would go to a trusted Ford dealer and get an estimate for the parts. Then decide if you want to go salvage, etc. If you are short on time, then ordering new parts may be most effective.
If you think the inspection criticism was not called for, you have to find the inspection standard and then determine if your car violated it or not. Sometimes it is flat easier to buy the new parts and be in total compliance.
Here is the inspection standard. VA State Police administer the program. See their website to see how to file a complaint, etc.
Presumably this issue falls under lamp condition.
5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:
•Approved type, aim, and output.
•Condition of lamp, wiring and switch.
•Beam indicator.
6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:
•Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
•Aim of fog and driving lamps.
•Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.
(NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. Count load in measuring.)
My search revealed that Brauning Fredericksburg and Colonial Beach have several complaints about their workmanship, upselling, and original low ball estimates. Not sure all the complaints are valid, but they are there. None involved VA inspections, though.
As a matter of personal policy I never let the inspecting business do my repairs.
If you think the inspection criticism was not called for, you have to find the inspection standard and then determine if your car violated it or not. Sometimes it is flat easier to buy the new parts and be in total compliance.
Here is the inspection standard. VA State Police administer the program. See their website to see how to file a complaint, etc.
Presumably this issue falls under lamp condition.
5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:
•Approved type, aim, and output.
•Condition of lamp, wiring and switch.
•Beam indicator.
6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:
•Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
•Aim of fog and driving lamps.
•Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.
(NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. Count load in measuring.)
My search revealed that Brauning Fredericksburg and Colonial Beach have several complaints about their workmanship, upselling, and original low ball estimates. Not sure all the complaints are valid, but they are there. None involved VA inspections, though.
As a matter of personal policy I never let the inspecting business do my repairs.
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Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
in New Jersey they dont have any mechanical inspection anymore just the emission test basically if your check engine light is off on a 96 or newer gas car or lite truck you pretty much pass they dont care if your is unsafe...they did this to save money which is a bad thing i believe the inspections save lives
inspections are a ripp off.
here in CA we have SMOG only shops that do the emissions and just that.
in New Jersey they dont have any mechanical inspection anymore just the emission test basically if your check engine light is off on a 96 or newer gas car or lite truck you pretty much pass they dont care if your is unsafe...they did this to save money which is a bad thing i believe the inspections save lives
inspections are a ripp off.
here in CA we have SMOG only shops that do the emissions and just that.
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In NY if you're over-due for inspection the shop can legally refuse to give you back your car until the work to bring it to minimums is completed. Otherwise they have to let the car out of the shop so the owner can complete the work at their leisure. Many folks forget about their inspections, put it off until past the expiration, and end up bringing in cars with bald tires or a burned-out bulb that then get held until the owners pay to get it fixed. Talk about a "laziness tax" if there ever was one.
I'm in VA also and have had the same type issue you're experiencing. I went to another shop and guess what - passed. I never went back to the first one for anything again.
We're dealing with humans here, and opinions will vary as to the interpretation of the inspection rules, for whatever reason.
We're dealing with humans here, and opinions will vary as to the interpretation of the inspection rules, for whatever reason.
make a BIG sign put on the top of the car. park it in front of their shop.
Well. Here is an update:
1) I fixed the light and the 1st inspection place said it is now too tight. [censored]
2) So I went to the place that I had no issue with in the past but they have, for the past few years, come up with minor stuffs to make an extra 30-60 bucks for things such as wiper blades and light bulbs. The young inspection brought my car in and said everything is fine and was about to put a good sticker on the windshield when his boss interrupted him. The boss said the Bronco has an exhaust leak. I told them to fix it right there but they want me to leave it right there for a few days until they can get the parts in. I had to get to work so I told him I'll be back. Well, they called a cop on me so I would get a No-Inspection ticket, which costs 98 dollars. I know he called the cop on me because the court house is about 300 yards away and the cop was sitting right there waiting for me.
I called this shop back asking how much it would cost to fix the leak and indicated that I rather have a very old exhaust replaced with Flowmaster as the labor should be roughly the same if the leak is serious enough that he could hear it while standing away from the vehicle in a enclosed bay. The older inspector, who failed me said they don't do custom exhaust. I told him it is a simple task that any mechanic can do. He insisted that his shop only do repair and not replace. I asked how long it would take to repair and rough estimate. He said he can't tell and it would take a few hours of lift time to carefully determine the problem. It sounded like a typical "I'll take good care of you" shop talk which usually equate to "I'll flush your wallet carefully."
3) So I went to shop #3 which never mentions a thing about exhaust leak or headlight problem. But they indicated that my ball joints are extremely bad and the right side has to be replaced immediately. In addition, my rear axle bearing seals are bad and needed to be replaced immediately. The total cost would be in the 800-1000 dollars on top of the diagnostic cost, which they claimed they went the extra miles than a usual inspection. They called me at a very bad time because I was about to head to a meeting; therefore, I told them to proceeded. I regreted this decision right away and called back but was placed on hold for 5 minutes before I hung up and called Consumer Protection and explained the problem with 3 shops telling me my Bronco fails state safety inspection for 3 completely different sets of problems. The CP person told me to either call back and cancel the work order or make sure they put the used parts in a box for 3rd party inspection later if I choose to file a scam complaint. I called back to the shop and asked if they have started working on my Bronco because I needed it later on that day for haul something. The person answering the phone indicated they are short-handed and it has not been looked at yet. I proceeded to ask that the work be scheduled for another time as I needed it today. He quickly interupted me and said work has started and my t-case fluid has been drained. I asked the cost of stopping work right there and was quoted for 40 dollars. This turns out to be a complete lie as the cost ended up being about 150 dollars ( I got so mad that I didn't look at it because I could have loose my temper right there.)
4) I talked to a friend of mine and he feels that I am being scamed by these shops because of the bad economics and people are watching their dollars carefully and don't do repairs like they use to; therefore, state inspection has become a catch-all scam. Several other people at work agree and added that it probably has a lot to do with the fact that I am not white but drive a redneck vehicle. Few people offer to take my car in for inspection and I took the offer. My vehicle passed with no problem beside a electrical short that miraculously appeared after I took my vehicle back from the 3rd shop.
I will call my credit card company and dispute the charge. Additionally, I will file a complaint with Consumer Protection on these 3 shops and possibly call some watch dog group to do an investigation to see if minority and women are wrongfully targeted during state inspection. I make good money but do not dress like one. However, if I was a person struggling financially and needs a vehicle for work, these scam artists can literally destroy me financially by failing my vehicle. Therefore, it is clear that they are preying on the working poor as well as minorities. I want them to be in trouble and stop doing that. It is simply not right.
1) I fixed the light and the 1st inspection place said it is now too tight. [censored]
2) So I went to the place that I had no issue with in the past but they have, for the past few years, come up with minor stuffs to make an extra 30-60 bucks for things such as wiper blades and light bulbs. The young inspection brought my car in and said everything is fine and was about to put a good sticker on the windshield when his boss interrupted him. The boss said the Bronco has an exhaust leak. I told them to fix it right there but they want me to leave it right there for a few days until they can get the parts in. I had to get to work so I told him I'll be back. Well, they called a cop on me so I would get a No-Inspection ticket, which costs 98 dollars. I know he called the cop on me because the court house is about 300 yards away and the cop was sitting right there waiting for me.
I called this shop back asking how much it would cost to fix the leak and indicated that I rather have a very old exhaust replaced with Flowmaster as the labor should be roughly the same if the leak is serious enough that he could hear it while standing away from the vehicle in a enclosed bay. The older inspector, who failed me said they don't do custom exhaust. I told him it is a simple task that any mechanic can do. He insisted that his shop only do repair and not replace. I asked how long it would take to repair and rough estimate. He said he can't tell and it would take a few hours of lift time to carefully determine the problem. It sounded like a typical "I'll take good care of you" shop talk which usually equate to "I'll flush your wallet carefully."
3) So I went to shop #3 which never mentions a thing about exhaust leak or headlight problem. But they indicated that my ball joints are extremely bad and the right side has to be replaced immediately. In addition, my rear axle bearing seals are bad and needed to be replaced immediately. The total cost would be in the 800-1000 dollars on top of the diagnostic cost, which they claimed they went the extra miles than a usual inspection. They called me at a very bad time because I was about to head to a meeting; therefore, I told them to proceeded. I regreted this decision right away and called back but was placed on hold for 5 minutes before I hung up and called Consumer Protection and explained the problem with 3 shops telling me my Bronco fails state safety inspection for 3 completely different sets of problems. The CP person told me to either call back and cancel the work order or make sure they put the used parts in a box for 3rd party inspection later if I choose to file a scam complaint. I called back to the shop and asked if they have started working on my Bronco because I needed it later on that day for haul something. The person answering the phone indicated they are short-handed and it has not been looked at yet. I proceeded to ask that the work be scheduled for another time as I needed it today. He quickly interupted me and said work has started and my t-case fluid has been drained. I asked the cost of stopping work right there and was quoted for 40 dollars. This turns out to be a complete lie as the cost ended up being about 150 dollars ( I got so mad that I didn't look at it because I could have loose my temper right there.)
4) I talked to a friend of mine and he feels that I am being scamed by these shops because of the bad economics and people are watching their dollars carefully and don't do repairs like they use to; therefore, state inspection has become a catch-all scam. Several other people at work agree and added that it probably has a lot to do with the fact that I am not white but drive a redneck vehicle. Few people offer to take my car in for inspection and I took the offer. My vehicle passed with no problem beside a electrical short that miraculously appeared after I took my vehicle back from the 3rd shop.
I will call my credit card company and dispute the charge. Additionally, I will file a complaint with Consumer Protection on these 3 shops and possibly call some watch dog group to do an investigation to see if minority and women are wrongfully targeted during state inspection. I make good money but do not dress like one. However, if I was a person struggling financially and needs a vehicle for work, these scam artists can literally destroy me financially by failing my vehicle. Therefore, it is clear that they are preying on the working poor as well as minorities. I want them to be in trouble and stop doing that. It is simply not right.
I don't even know what to say, I am literally speachless after reading your last post. I feel for you.
I never ran into these issues when I lived in PA, where they had state safety inspections. I am glad where I live now doesn't, so I don't have to deal with this stuff.
There are some major bombs on the road here, (cars missing fenders, bumpers, hoods, etc.) but I don't see anyone getting hurt from mechanical failures. I suppose this is a good idea in the rust belt due to frame rotting, but this stuff is ridiculous.
I never ran into these issues when I lived in PA, where they had state safety inspections. I am glad where I live now doesn't, so I don't have to deal with this stuff.
There are some major bombs on the road here, (cars missing fenders, bumpers, hoods, etc.) but I don't see anyone getting hurt from mechanical failures. I suppose this is a good idea in the rust belt due to frame rotting, but this stuff is ridiculous.
Inspections should be obsolete by now.
With the advancement of electronics it should be a no brainer.
The car should be policing itself for safety & emissions defects.
With the advancement of electronics it should be a no brainer.
The car should be policing itself for safety & emissions defects.
I am also shocked.
Of course I know some people whose cars ARE poorly maintained and hope they get swept up in the net every year here when stickers are due. They have money for fancy cell phones but their brake lines are rotting away from rust.
If someone is picky they can find SOMETHING wrong with a 17 year old Bronco. Re the ball joints did you have them show you? Prying on them up on the lift?
You can test for exhaust leaks by stuffing a rag in your tailpipe and starting the truck. If you have a leak you'll hear it; if you don't, it will blow the rag out.
It's possible you're just in a crooked part of town. We have a car dealership "automile" here I stay away from as every dealer is as shady as the next. They look at their competition and one-up each other in lousiness. Try going to a rednecky part of virginia where they love and enjoy Broncos. I'm split between recommending someone who knows them or not, as a crook would find stuff like your axle seals while an honest one knows things need to "weep" a little to stay lubed. For all we know a crook could spray a little oil inside your drum to make it look like a weeping seal.
Of course I know some people whose cars ARE poorly maintained and hope they get swept up in the net every year here when stickers are due. They have money for fancy cell phones but their brake lines are rotting away from rust.
If someone is picky they can find SOMETHING wrong with a 17 year old Bronco. Re the ball joints did you have them show you? Prying on them up on the lift?
You can test for exhaust leaks by stuffing a rag in your tailpipe and starting the truck. If you have a leak you'll hear it; if you don't, it will blow the rag out.
It's possible you're just in a crooked part of town. We have a car dealership "automile" here I stay away from as every dealer is as shady as the next. They look at their competition and one-up each other in lousiness. Try going to a rednecky part of virginia where they love and enjoy Broncos. I'm split between recommending someone who knows them or not, as a crook would find stuff like your axle seals while an honest one knows things need to "weep" a little to stay lubed. For all we know a crook could spray a little oil inside your drum to make it look like a weeping seal.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If someone is picky they can find SOMETHING wrong with a 17 year old Bronco.
Exactly. It almost sounds like they hired someone like me to be inspecting cars, nitpicking and finding every little thing to upsell.
I think it's best for you to inspect your car yourself and have an idea of what's broken so that you won't have any surprises when you go in for an inspection.
If someone is picky they can find SOMETHING wrong with a 17 year old Bronco.
Exactly. It almost sounds like they hired someone like me to be inspecting cars, nitpicking and finding every little thing to upsell.
I think it's best for you to inspect your car yourself and have an idea of what's broken so that you won't have any surprises when you go in for an inspection.
Contact the state and hopefully they will get caught.
Wow. Your post left me speechless. Just......wow.
I'd definitely follow up with the state on these shops if that happened to me too.
Things here in NY aren't that bad, so far. At least around me in my area in West Nowhere where practically everybody drives an older car, a sizable minority of which would fail inspection anywhere else due to corrosion perforation.
I'd definitely follow up with the state on these shops if that happened to me too.
Things here in NY aren't that bad, so far. At least around me in my area in West Nowhere where practically everybody drives an older car, a sizable minority of which would fail inspection anywhere else due to corrosion perforation.
Update:
I called my credit card company today to dispute the charge, which has not shown up on my balance yet. The credit card company rep indicated that there should be no problem disputing that charge once it shows up. The way I figure it is that the worst thing can be is that I have to fax in a Pass Inspection receipt, which is 2 days from the date it was failed. In addition, I have the receipt showing it was failed by a separate shop for a headlight housing which has nothing to do with any thing ball joints or axle. The 2nd shop didn't provide me with a receipt but I have their business card as proof that I stopped by there. In addition, there is a phone record of me calling. But I can pulled that record because I used company land line phone. Regardless, I still have 2 receipts showing the vehicle failed for 3 totally complete things and a verbal statement of exhaust leak, which 2 other crooked shops missed. Then I have a good receipt showing it passed inspection without any trouble at all.
Yes, I do agree that anyone can find a problem with a 17 years old Bronco that spend its life in a rust belt and has ~200k miles. But since no real work/inspection was performed, they said nothing about the fact that the brake fluid is old and the vehicle is out of alignment and that one tire may be worn. That tire was a front tire and on a passenger side. The front driver side tire is very worn and I swapped that with a spare, which is old but has full tread. Then I put both of them in the back. My goal is to replace all 4 tires in a year once I know my driving habit for this and know what brand is best for me. I will do alignment at such time as well.
The reason no one said anything about tires and brakes because these place don't sell such service. Just like the place that failed me for exhaust leak but refuse to do a muffler replacement, insisting only on repair which can take forever for no actual performed.
I called my credit card company today to dispute the charge, which has not shown up on my balance yet. The credit card company rep indicated that there should be no problem disputing that charge once it shows up. The way I figure it is that the worst thing can be is that I have to fax in a Pass Inspection receipt, which is 2 days from the date it was failed. In addition, I have the receipt showing it was failed by a separate shop for a headlight housing which has nothing to do with any thing ball joints or axle. The 2nd shop didn't provide me with a receipt but I have their business card as proof that I stopped by there. In addition, there is a phone record of me calling. But I can pulled that record because I used company land line phone. Regardless, I still have 2 receipts showing the vehicle failed for 3 totally complete things and a verbal statement of exhaust leak, which 2 other crooked shops missed. Then I have a good receipt showing it passed inspection without any trouble at all.
Yes, I do agree that anyone can find a problem with a 17 years old Bronco that spend its life in a rust belt and has ~200k miles. But since no real work/inspection was performed, they said nothing about the fact that the brake fluid is old and the vehicle is out of alignment and that one tire may be worn. That tire was a front tire and on a passenger side. The front driver side tire is very worn and I swapped that with a spare, which is old but has full tread. Then I put both of them in the back. My goal is to replace all 4 tires in a year once I know my driving habit for this and know what brand is best for me. I will do alignment at such time as well.
The reason no one said anything about tires and brakes because these place don't sell such service. Just like the place that failed me for exhaust leak but refuse to do a muffler replacement, insisting only on repair which can take forever for no actual performed.
Update:
A shop called me wanting me to call back to explain why I cancelled payment from my credit card. The charge is still in the dispute process. I said what I needed to said in writing to the credit card company and already brought the fact to the shop manger/owner attention about being billed for ATF fluid when the work order indicated rear differential R&R. He quickly indicated that the ATF needed to be drained and refilled as part of the work and since I cancelled the work before it could be complete, I was only responsible for part of that work, which is 143.80 dollars. I don't know and don't want to know what would a complete work be for repairing a leak rear differential seal if the first 5 minutes of work cost that much to just replace the fluid drained.
Either way, there is no such thing as draining ATF when working with rear differential and they lied. Therefore, I don't see a need to call them back and potentially be tricked into saying something that could hurt my case. And the shop does not have my interest in mind, never had and never will so I don't see how the call can be anything rather than to help their case as they would tell their bank and creditor that they called me and explained the work is legitimate, which would be another lie.
What do you guys think?
A shop called me wanting me to call back to explain why I cancelled payment from my credit card. The charge is still in the dispute process. I said what I needed to said in writing to the credit card company and already brought the fact to the shop manger/owner attention about being billed for ATF fluid when the work order indicated rear differential R&R. He quickly indicated that the ATF needed to be drained and refilled as part of the work and since I cancelled the work before it could be complete, I was only responsible for part of that work, which is 143.80 dollars. I don't know and don't want to know what would a complete work be for repairing a leak rear differential seal if the first 5 minutes of work cost that much to just replace the fluid drained.
Either way, there is no such thing as draining ATF when working with rear differential and they lied. Therefore, I don't see a need to call them back and potentially be tricked into saying something that could hurt my case. And the shop does not have my interest in mind, never had and never will so I don't see how the call can be anything rather than to help their case as they would tell their bank and creditor that they called me and explained the work is legitimate, which would be another lie.
What do you guys think?
If they pull the driveshaft to get at the differential from the front, the missing driveshaft from the tail shaft of your tranny/transfer case will lose some fluid from that device.
The best defense would be to get your state's inspection "bible" guidelines, probably online. See if it's required to have dry axles. Get inspected as-is and use that as proof against the other shop. Your uphill climb will be that you did approve the axle seal work over the phone.
The best defense would be to get your state's inspection "bible" guidelines, probably online. See if it's required to have dry axles. Get inspected as-is and use that as proof against the other shop. Your uphill climb will be that you did approve the axle seal work over the phone.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If they pull the driveshaft to get at the differential from the front, the missing driveshaft from the tail shaft of your tranny/transfer case will lose some fluid from that device.
The best defense would be to get your state's inspection "bible" guidelines, probably online. See if it's required to have dry axles. Get inspected as-is and use that as proof against the other shop. Your uphill climb will be that you did approve the axle seal work over the phone.
I didn't approve the axle seal work, that popped up when they put my vehicle on the lift after I authorized the ball joints work, which I canceled right away after talking to Consumer Protection. When they told me that they have started working my car I was shocked that they worked on rear axle instead of the ball joints. And the quoted price on the phone was 30 dollars and not 143.80 dollars. Additionally, they charged me for ATF instead of gear oil or differential oil and tried to cover their butt by saying that ATF needed to be replaced as part of the work. Neither of which is corrected because replacing ATF would require 6 quarts and a transmission pan dropped. As I mentioned earlier, I didn't want to loose my temper and had a police called for confrontation. This is why scam protection is available for credit card user.
If they pull the driveshaft to get at the differential from the front, the missing driveshaft from the tail shaft of your tranny/transfer case will lose some fluid from that device.
The best defense would be to get your state's inspection "bible" guidelines, probably online. See if it's required to have dry axles. Get inspected as-is and use that as proof against the other shop. Your uphill climb will be that you did approve the axle seal work over the phone.
I didn't approve the axle seal work, that popped up when they put my vehicle on the lift after I authorized the ball joints work, which I canceled right away after talking to Consumer Protection. When they told me that they have started working my car I was shocked that they worked on rear axle instead of the ball joints. And the quoted price on the phone was 30 dollars and not 143.80 dollars. Additionally, they charged me for ATF instead of gear oil or differential oil and tried to cover their butt by saying that ATF needed to be replaced as part of the work. Neither of which is corrected because replacing ATF would require 6 quarts and a transmission pan dropped. As I mentioned earlier, I didn't want to loose my temper and had a police called for confrontation. This is why scam protection is available for credit card user.
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By the way, I took my vehicle to another shop 2 days later and it passed inspection without any problem. Prior to being ripped off, the vehicle failed inspection for another things (headlights alignment and exhaust leak). That makes it a total of 3 shops not catching the ball joints and whatever else problem this one crooked shop caught. Isn't it obviously that the first 3 shops just failed my vehicle for things for they specifically specialized in instead of conducting the state safety inspection in a standard fashion.
The 4th shop, which didn't need the extra work passed my vehicle because there is nothing wrong with it. As someone already mentioned, a person can find something wrong with a 17 years old Bronco with close to 200k miles in original setup if they want to. Whether or not the vehicle is safe to be on the road should be the goal and not the shop's bottom line. I am sure if I took it to a tire shop they would fail me for having old tires and suggest I get all 4 tires.
The 4th shop, which didn't need the extra work passed my vehicle because there is nothing wrong with it. As someone already mentioned, a person can find something wrong with a 17 years old Bronco with close to 200k miles in original setup if they want to. Whether or not the vehicle is safe to be on the road should be the goal and not the shop's bottom line. I am sure if I took it to a tire shop they would fail me for having old tires and suggest I get all 4 tires.
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