Each filter is different to the point the same end wrench doesn't work on the Delco PF44 and UPF44. Here is one that works on everything. I even use it to compress brake caliper pistons. $5.99 from www.northerntools.com
Super Tech bad experience
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They are inexpensive and if you want easy to make out of square stock and an old seat belt. We use one on the fuel filter bowl on the Pratt & Whitney F100-220 jet engine. Of course it was made from a drawing approved by Pratt & Whitney.
I belong to the club that has used a screwdriver punctured through the filter. It was on a friend's car years ago, and even an oversized pair of vice grips wouldn't budge it.
I have an assortment of filter wrenches that I've bought over the years, but on the cars I have now there isn't much clearance to get a good grip with a filter wrench. And I wouldn't even bother with the kind that DSteven used because they never work when the filter is on real tight.
My best method for removing the filter (when I can't get it off by hand) is to use a black rubber bungee strap. I just wrap it around the filter, and it gives me something to grip with my hands. I've also went to using wheel bearing grease on the gasket instead of oil. I don't seem to get the stuck filters like I used to.
I have an assortment of filter wrenches that I've bought over the years, but on the cars I have now there isn't much clearance to get a good grip with a filter wrench. And I wouldn't even bother with the kind that DSteven used because they never work when the filter is on real tight.
My best method for removing the filter (when I can't get it off by hand) is to use a black rubber bungee strap. I just wrap it around the filter, and it gives me something to grip with my hands. I've also went to using wheel bearing grease on the gasket instead of oil. I don't seem to get the stuck filters like I used to.
Originally posted by Bror Jace:
But wheel bearing grease does a much better job of preventing the surfaces from sticking together. It's definitely compatible with butyl rubber gaskets, and although it doesn't stick, it puts up more resistance when removing the filter (harder to turn once you break the seal).
I got the idea from Amsoil. They recommend using grease when attaching the remote adapters for their bypass filters.
That's possible. I have not read that, but I can see them saying this to prevent from having to deal with the liability of a filter unscrewing itself.
But wheel bearing grease does a much better job of preventing the surfaces from sticking together. It's definitely compatible with butyl rubber gaskets, and although it doesn't stick, it puts up more resistance when removing the filter (harder to turn once you break the seal).
I got the idea from Amsoil. They recommend using grease when attaching the remote adapters for their bypass filters.
The only time I've ever had any filter leak at the gasket was when I was still in my sweet innocence of youth teen phase doing the "he-man"-torque-it-'till-the-block-begs-for-mercy method. For the last three decades I never put an oil filter on tighter than I can remove it by hand. I've used STs for the last four years without any problems. I've found STs to be of equivalent weight to Champion-made ACs for given applications, so I reject totally the notion that their case stampings are of inferior gauge. But like all urban legends, this myth won't die either.
(I'm awaiting the resurrection of Fram filters to exalted status over ST filters' quality any day now - kinda surprised the topic starter didn't throw that in, too...)
[ June 18, 2004, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
(I'm awaiting the resurrection of Fram filters to exalted status over ST filters' quality any day now - kinda surprised the topic starter didn't throw that in, too...)
[ June 18, 2004, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
Also had experience with the ST16 filter on a Stratus V6. A Wal Mart cap wrench slipped even though the filter was not very tight. Maybe the ST is a tiny bit smaller than what the wrench should fit and will slip. Strap wrench worked without problem. Access is not too bad but the wrench must be placed above several items to fit on the filter. Using rubber bands or other rubber under the strap may increase traction and help get a tight filter off.
[ June 18, 2004, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: thrace ]
[ June 18, 2004, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: thrace ]
I had one so tight on a Hyunday Stellar 85 I had to use all kind of tools and a screwdriver with no success, I end up with no filter but just a mess of oil, filter media, and sheet metal...
I finally had to use a chisel I can tell you Those Korean are strong !!!
I finally had to use a chisel I can tell you Those Korean are strong !!!
The only serious caveat I ever had with Supertech filters is that they seem restrictive.
I put one on my old Honda Civic 1.5L and it took much longer for the oil light to go off than usual. Not terribly scientific ... but it stuck with me.
I was looking for a really cheap filter to use for about 1,000 miles, that's all.
--- Bror Jace
I put one on my old Honda Civic 1.5L and it took much longer for the oil light to go off than usual. Not terribly scientific ... but it stuck with me.
I was looking for a really cheap filter to use for about 1,000 miles, that's all.
--- Bror Jace
"I had a customer come in that had tried to do his own oil change. The base plate from the old filter was underneath his new filter ... It was closing time, so I 'got' to leave it for day shift."
Geez, where's your sense of adventure? Don't you look forward to a challenge? I know I do … as long as it’s someone else’s vehicle.
My favorite oil filter wrenches are made by Lisle. Their stuff is fantastic:
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_search_results.cfm?Search=Filter+Wrench
However, with my last two cars, the end-cap-type wrenches work well enough and often I only have easy access to the end of the filter, not the side.
As was stated above, you need to be sure the cap fits over the end with minimal play as you can strip the "facets" of the outside of the canister when you put some force on them. If one of them is a little loose, you can place a paper towel or rag inside the wrench to take up the extra space
I actually think the metal on the Supertech canisters is thick enough. I've never ripped one apart with torque from a filter wrench.
My Dad ripped apart a Motorcraft filter with a cheap wrench years ago. He was under there alone so I don't know how he did it. I got him a Lisle which fits his size filter and he never had another problem ... even with the Motorcraft filters.
I used to "hang" with some "peeps" which were a bunch of gen-u-wine suburban rednecks and they used to like to over-tighten their filters ... as all "real" men like to do.
Good guys to be around, lots of fun to laugh at. Here was their procedure checklist:
Installation:
1) After removing old filter, be sure not to disturb the layer of old oil, road salt, sand, bug innards, etc … on the mounting flange. This is a valuable lubricant and sealant.
2) Spin filter on clockwise by hand until the gasket meets the mounting flange.
3) Give one quarter turn by hand.
4) Give additional quarter turn using oil filter wrench.
5) Continue to tighten with wrench until the sweat from your forehead mixes with the tears in your eyes.
6) Hand the oil filter wrench to a friend (preferably named “Bubba” or “Hoss”) and have them repeat step 5.
7) Gasket squirming outside the footprint of the canister is an indicator of proper torque.
Removal:
1) Attach oil filter wrench and turn filter counter-clockwise.
2) Filter should not come off, this is merely a check to ensure proper prior installation.
3) Grasp filter with water pump pliers and squeeze firmly while turning counter clockwise.
4) Pierce the unmoved, crushed filter’s canister with screwdriver, tent stake, tire iron or cold chisel and turn counter clockwise by hand.
5) Grasp remains of unmoved baseplate and jagged canister with vice grips and begin inching the filter in a counter-clockwise motion for final removal.
6) Refer to instructions above for new filter installation.
7) Refrain from washing hands as used oil, dirt, road grime and sweat make effective blood coagulants.
slalom44: "I've also went to using wheel bearing grease on the gasket instead of oil."
Um, I’m pretty sure Wix and Hastings specifically recommend against this.
--- Bror Jace
Geez, where's your sense of adventure? Don't you look forward to a challenge? I know I do … as long as it’s someone else’s vehicle.
My favorite oil filter wrenches are made by Lisle. Their stuff is fantastic:
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_search_results.cfm?Search=Filter+Wrench
However, with my last two cars, the end-cap-type wrenches work well enough and often I only have easy access to the end of the filter, not the side.
As was stated above, you need to be sure the cap fits over the end with minimal play as you can strip the "facets" of the outside of the canister when you put some force on them. If one of them is a little loose, you can place a paper towel or rag inside the wrench to take up the extra space
I actually think the metal on the Supertech canisters is thick enough. I've never ripped one apart with torque from a filter wrench.
My Dad ripped apart a Motorcraft filter with a cheap wrench years ago. He was under there alone so I don't know how he did it. I got him a Lisle which fits his size filter and he never had another problem ... even with the Motorcraft filters.
I used to "hang" with some "peeps" which were a bunch of gen-u-wine suburban rednecks and they used to like to over-tighten their filters ... as all "real" men like to do.
Good guys to be around, lots of fun to laugh at. Here was their procedure checklist:
Installation:
1) After removing old filter, be sure not to disturb the layer of old oil, road salt, sand, bug innards, etc … on the mounting flange. This is a valuable lubricant and sealant.
2) Spin filter on clockwise by hand until the gasket meets the mounting flange.
3) Give one quarter turn by hand.
4) Give additional quarter turn using oil filter wrench.
5) Continue to tighten with wrench until the sweat from your forehead mixes with the tears in your eyes.
6) Hand the oil filter wrench to a friend (preferably named “Bubba” or “Hoss”) and have them repeat step 5.
7) Gasket squirming outside the footprint of the canister is an indicator of proper torque.
Removal:
1) Attach oil filter wrench and turn filter counter-clockwise.
2) Filter should not come off, this is merely a check to ensure proper prior installation.
3) Grasp filter with water pump pliers and squeeze firmly while turning counter clockwise.
4) Pierce the unmoved, crushed filter’s canister with screwdriver, tent stake, tire iron or cold chisel and turn counter clockwise by hand.
5) Grasp remains of unmoved baseplate and jagged canister with vice grips and begin inching the filter in a counter-clockwise motion for final removal.
6) Refer to instructions above for new filter installation.
7) Refrain from washing hands as used oil, dirt, road grime and sweat make effective blood coagulants.
slalom44: "I've also went to using wheel bearing grease on the gasket instead of oil."
Um, I’m pretty sure Wix and Hastings specifically recommend against this.
--- Bror Jace
I'll agree with others, that normal wrenches don't work on ST filters. The one that I bought for the 3593A filter is too lose. But I just use a strap wrench now without any problems.
On alot of the cars I service there is not enough room for a strap wrench or any other tool to remove the oil filter, especially my Thunderbird
I remove and install all oil filters by hand, in most cases anything tighter than what you can do by hand is too tight.
When I'm having a hard time (usually only when someone other than me put on the filter I'm removing) I wrap a piece of sandpaper around the filter for extra grip.
Supertechs are a good filter for the money and its thin can would be a non-issue if people didn't go overboard tightening.
I remove and install all oil filters by hand, in most cases anything tighter than what you can do by hand is too tight.
When I'm having a hard time (usually only when someone other than me put on the filter I'm removing) I wrap a piece of sandpaper around the filter for extra grip.
Supertechs are a good filter for the money and its thin can would be a non-issue if people didn't go overboard tightening.
If you have to use a wrench, then it was put on too tight to begin with.
This is the one you want. I promise you it will work. I have had mine for 15 years or so.
(Lisle 63600)
They are available at auto parts supply places.
This one is almost as good: (KD Tools 2380)
Both use a 3/8" drive.
Screw drivers are cave man stuff. Don't do that.
[ June 24, 2004, 11:34 AM: Message edited by: Al ]
(Lisle 63600)
They are available at auto parts supply places.
This one is almost as good: (KD Tools 2380)
Both use a 3/8" drive.
Screw drivers are cave man stuff. Don't do that.
[ June 24, 2004, 11:34 AM: Message edited by: Al ]
I've had to pull off some of the tightest filters. metal Strap/band wrenches really work best. Jaw type ones work sometimes and cap wrenches are very hit and miss. Plier type ones are bad because they can punture the filter and make a mess.
Sometimes a screwdriver is neccesary, although I've just about rippped a filter in half one time.
Bottom line is that none are needed if you tighten it properly. If some place is tightening your filter to the point of needing a wrench, don't go to them.
-T
Sometimes a screwdriver is neccesary, although I've just about rippped a filter in half one time.
Bottom line is that none are needed if you tighten it properly. If some place is tightening your filter to the point of needing a wrench, don't go to them.
-T
Maybe apes don't. Like most flat statements it is wrong. I never turn my filter a full turn, and always need a wrench to remove it.
As a guy that weighs 170lbs and has a desk job, I don't think I'm an ape.
If you tighten it by hand it should be almost as easy to get off as it was to go on. The only difference would be maybe the gasket has dried and sealed itself to the mount?
The difference shouldn't be that much.
The filter only has to be tight enough not to come off on it's own. Now you should be able to put significantly more force on it than just the vibration of the engine. So wouldn't it reason that it you should be able to get it off?
-T
If you tighten it by hand it should be almost as easy to get off as it was to go on. The only difference would be maybe the gasket has dried and sealed itself to the mount?
The filter only has to be tight enough not to come off on it's own. Now you should be able to put significantly more force on it than just the vibration of the engine. So wouldn't it reason that it you should be able to get it off?
-T
I always tighten filters by hand but I always need a wrench to get them off. Am I that much stronger in the clockwise direction?
When you say 'use a strap wrench' to remove the oil filter, are you talking about the metal band type oil filter remover or the rubber strap type which usually comes in two different sizes.
Right, I am not sure what is happening. I oil my gaskets and turn the filter less than the maximum full turn by hand after it contacts the filter head, and still need my Channelocks or something to get it off. I have also had to get a wrench many time to loosen a nut I tightened by hand. The difference between static and dynamic friction could be part of it. Distortion of the gasket comes into play on the oil filter. The surface of the gasket in contact with the filter head is stretched counterclockwise to the other surface.
It makes no difference why. The 3 minutes or less it takes me to grab the Channelocks and break the filter loose is time well spent, giving me 3 months of knowing I tightened the filter the way it should be, and it won't be leaking or removing itself some inconvenient time and place. I am sick of arrogant accusations of over tightening my filters.
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