Also posted this ont he auto-rx forum. Frank has recommended an abbreviated program. Thought I'd post it here to get inputs on the symptoms I'm experiencing and alternative approaches if ARX doesn't work.
Recently picked up a '77 Ford F150 with a big honkin 460 4bbl with 170K original miles. Only engine work is water pump, timing chain and valve stem seals. Owner said 3K oil changes using 20w50 the whole life. Drove it home (75 miles) no problems and after a week in my driveway had all of 2 or maybe three drops of oil from the RMS.
Did a foolish thing and changed the oil to 5w30 Mobile 1. Within 200 miles she was leaking like a seeve. The rumors and discussions I heard over the years came true on this high mileage vehicle. After doing lots of research, landed on this Auto-Rx approach to clean this engine up and hopefully stop the leak. Here's where I'm at and the issues I'm facing:
I swear there was no engine based knocking on my test drive. I switched out everything to Rotella 15w40 dino plus Auto-Rx. But now I have a tak-a-tak-a-tak sound when engine is cold and under light to medium load (throttle). Not a top end tick sound from valve train. I'm thinking worse case is rod knock, buttttttt, it gets less after full engine warm up and under med->heavy load/throttle you can't hear it at all. My understanding is that rod knocks usually get worse as engine warms up or at best doesn't go away. I've read some symptoms of piston slap - maybe a carbon ring buildup in cylinder bore that's making contact with cold engine? Any expert opinions here? Ran a bottle of Techron to help clean out the very dirty Holley carb (definitely running too rich as tail pipes very black/sooty. Set the jets, and float levels. Measure manifold vacuum and very pleased with a steady 18.9"!).
I now have 500 miles on the treatment and have already lost 1 quart of oil! Oil pressure: not bad with this well used engine (farm vehicle plus some heavy machinery hauling in its past). Don't have mechanical gauge to measure, but good high needle reading at startup/cold. Was low when hot and sitting at idle. However, it looks like the oil pressure is slightly better after 500 miles with the ARX treatment - needle doesn't drop quite as low when hot/idle, etc? Could this be a result of ARX and at this mileage?
Another issue/question/concern is that I only put 8 to 10 miles per day on the truck. That means 5 to 6 months before I finish my first 1500 mile cleaning step. Based on the seal leak instructions/program I'm following, I need to go 2K miles on next step for rinse, then another cleaning step for 1K miles, then a 2K-2.5K final rinse step. At my daily mileage this will take 6.5K-7K total miles which for me could be 1.75 to 2 years to complete. I don't plan on even owning this truck that long (working on restoring a '66 F100 CC/CS). So, questions are will ARX work at this slow of pace? Do I need to modify process? I really don't want to continue with 1 quart of lost oil every 500 miles! What do I do if I need to sell this truck before full completion of 10 step program - other additives or throw in a HM oil and hope for the best?
Pretty discouraged at this point - maybe just need a pep talk ?
Thanks,
daggerNC
'66 F100 CC/CS 390 Auto
'77 F150 Ranger 460 Auto
Recently picked up a '77 Ford F150 with a big honkin 460 4bbl with 170K original miles. Only engine work is water pump, timing chain and valve stem seals. Owner said 3K oil changes using 20w50 the whole life. Drove it home (75 miles) no problems and after a week in my driveway had all of 2 or maybe three drops of oil from the RMS.
Did a foolish thing and changed the oil to 5w30 Mobile 1. Within 200 miles she was leaking like a seeve. The rumors and discussions I heard over the years came true on this high mileage vehicle. After doing lots of research, landed on this Auto-Rx approach to clean this engine up and hopefully stop the leak. Here's where I'm at and the issues I'm facing:
I swear there was no engine based knocking on my test drive. I switched out everything to Rotella 15w40 dino plus Auto-Rx. But now I have a tak-a-tak-a-tak sound when engine is cold and under light to medium load (throttle). Not a top end tick sound from valve train. I'm thinking worse case is rod knock, buttttttt, it gets less after full engine warm up and under med->heavy load/throttle you can't hear it at all. My understanding is that rod knocks usually get worse as engine warms up or at best doesn't go away. I've read some symptoms of piston slap - maybe a carbon ring buildup in cylinder bore that's making contact with cold engine? Any expert opinions here? Ran a bottle of Techron to help clean out the very dirty Holley carb (definitely running too rich as tail pipes very black/sooty. Set the jets, and float levels. Measure manifold vacuum and very pleased with a steady 18.9"!).
I now have 500 miles on the treatment and have already lost 1 quart of oil! Oil pressure: not bad with this well used engine (farm vehicle plus some heavy machinery hauling in its past). Don't have mechanical gauge to measure, but good high needle reading at startup/cold. Was low when hot and sitting at idle. However, it looks like the oil pressure is slightly better after 500 miles with the ARX treatment - needle doesn't drop quite as low when hot/idle, etc? Could this be a result of ARX and at this mileage?
Another issue/question/concern is that I only put 8 to 10 miles per day on the truck. That means 5 to 6 months before I finish my first 1500 mile cleaning step. Based on the seal leak instructions/program I'm following, I need to go 2K miles on next step for rinse, then another cleaning step for 1K miles, then a 2K-2.5K final rinse step. At my daily mileage this will take 6.5K-7K total miles which for me could be 1.75 to 2 years to complete. I don't plan on even owning this truck that long (working on restoring a '66 F100 CC/CS). So, questions are will ARX work at this slow of pace? Do I need to modify process? I really don't want to continue with 1 quart of lost oil every 500 miles! What do I do if I need to sell this truck before full completion of 10 step program - other additives or throw in a HM oil and hope for the best?
Pretty discouraged at this point - maybe just need a pep talk ?
Thanks,
daggerNC
'66 F100 CC/CS 390 Auto
'77 F150 Ranger 460 Auto