School me on 2015-2020 tundras

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Brother is in the market for a newer tundra at the $20k mark. His 05 with 350,000mi is starting to have some rust-related issues which will not be worth fixing at this point.

I'm trying to help him out, but don't know much about Tundras besides doing some basic maintenance on some his 1st gen 4.7

Are there any notable differences in technology, reliability or other points year to year within the 2015-20 ranges? Are certain years more desirable than others?

Thanks
 
According to Consumer Reports, between 2015-20, the 2016 Tundra had dropped in reliability(engine & tranny) to only average while the others show very good. However, the 2016 showed the best in customer satisfaction in those same years. Weird! :unsure:
2017-20 show to be the best overall.

The Tundra isn't(according to CR data) a very comfortable nor quiet truck and all seem to experience brake issues or premature brake wear and long stopping distances.
And all are very thirsty...very thirsty with fuel but they major drive systems are solid, receiving a 5 out of 5.
If you have a library card, you can go into CR website and view everything that other non-subscribers cannot see.
 
Technology does not really change much with Toyota models which is one reason their reliability is high. I think around 2018 they stopped the transmission cooler from cooling. It does still help it get to operating temp quickly though.
 
1st gen are best gen for reliability(epic) and comfort for time except for rust part.

Tundra lost its edge after against competition as they really evolved. Recent stuff is no better or worst then domestic Ford etc depending on their specific engine.

Two friends have them and they seem to have some pricey issues in the 150k+ range like leaf springs, smog pump and other bits.
 
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Your biggest issue with tundra, is that the vast majority sold are RWD and not 4WD. They are also just not the best work truck (although probably most reliable) when you compare towing, mpg, comfort, and the rest of the specs. Toyota makes a good "pick up" truck, just not a good work truck, so if its for real, serious work, skip the tundra and go chevy, maybe ford.

20K for a used tundra? what is the mileage? like over 100k?
Just because a toyota can go past 200K doesn't mean you should buy one with 100K.

Wait like...6 months for prices to come down too.
 
They are solid trucks with few maladies. There are not many changes through the years.

As for "technology", 2014 to 2017 were essentially the same. 2018+ have Toyota Safety Sense as standard (collision avoidance, lane departure warnings, auto high beams, dynamic radar cruise control).

I believe 2020 and 2021 had an updated radio with slightly larger screen that may have Apple CarPlay.

2019-2021 do not have transmission oil coolers, if this is a big deal.

The 5.7 and 4.6 V8 engines are durable and generally trouble free, as are the transmissions for either. Bonus is you don't have to deal with a timing belt every 90k miles with either engine as you do with the 4.7 V8.

I liked my 1st Gen Tundra and put a bunch of miles on it, but the newer 2007-2021 are really better overall. A bit more room and much better braking system.

I'm not sure what you'll find for $20k, but good luck.

I would have no issues with the 2007-2013 Tundra if you find a good one. They are essentially the same truck but without the updated exterior design. A few years used the 4.7 V8 instead of the 4.6, and the 5.7 was available all years.
 
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You can think of a Tundra vs the domestics trucks this way. You can probably get a domestic for a better price and get a nicer looking truck and a better truck to drive. And the domestic truck may be within the budget while getting the niceties.

And for what a Toyota cost and cost of parts to repair along with it's poor fuel economy, you can make a lot of repairs on a domestic truck and still be further ahead. The annual fuel cost difference alone of a Tundra can pay for other things.
 
You can think of a Tundra vs the domestics trucks this way. You can probably get a domestic for a better price and get a nicer truck to drive.
And for what a Toyota cost and cost of parts to repair along with it's poor fuel economy, you can make a lot of repairs on a domestic truck and still be further ahead.
Toyota parts are not more expensive than GM / Ford / RAM.
 
You can think of a Tundra vs the domestics trucks this way. You can probably get a domestic for a better price and get a nicer looking truck and a better truck to drive. And the domestic truck may be within the budget while getting the niceties.

And for what a Toyota cost and cost of parts to repair along with it's poor fuel economy, you can make a lot of repairs on a domestic truck and still be further ahead. The annual fuel cost difference alone of a Tundra can pay for other things.
I would have to disagree. I run chev's ford's dodges and a toyota.
 
I would scope the cylinders if you get a chance, there is the occasional engine that is known to burn oil in one cylinder or two cylinders.
 
You can think of a Tundra vs the domestics trucks this way. You can probably get a domestic for a better price and get a nicer truck to drive.
And for what a Toyota cost and cost of parts to repair along with it's poor fuel economy, you can make a lot of repairs on a domestic truck and still be further ahead.
Or you can enjoy driving the Tundra while a domestic truck would have been in the shop, knowing that you paid a bit more in gas to get a lot more in reliability. At 75,000 miles, the Tundra uses no oil, has not had one repair, runs perfectly, starts every time, does everything I ask of it. I drove it to Boston and back last weekend. 18-19 MPG on the highway. Mine is the 1794, so it has every convenience.

With all the BITOG threads on failures of Ford eco boost engines, GM cylinder deactivation problems, transmission failures, etc. the Tundra is a reliable, if slightly thirsty, bet.

That is exactly the decision I made several years ago. I’ll take reliable over fuel economy if it means I don’t break down and have to get recalls done to the truck.

As far as work? My Tundra tows with ease. It carries large, often dirty, bulk cargo, including used engines, landscaping materials, lumber, and moves furniture when needed. It’s a truck.

You’re really choosing repairs - having the truck out of service - over fuel cost? Your math is way off, I suspect, in support of your thinking...

The Tundra around town isn’t much worse than a domestic, and it isn’t a big difference on the highway. So, you don’t save enough on fuel to offset the cost of repairs, and having a truck down for repairs is detrimental no matter what business you’re in.

The Tundra is a solid truck, period.

I prefer the 2017 and earlier for the external transmission oil cooler but unless you tow a lot, I don’t think it matters in reliability.

The engine and transmission are bulletproof, and the V-8 sounds glorious when you rev it hard. I heard a Raptor going full throttle from a stop light the other day, he had to show me his tail-lights, I suppose, and the flatulent sound of that V-6 was just silly.

I think I’m going to go wash and wax the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned.
 
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I currently own a 2010 Tundra with the 4.6 V8. It has 190,000 miles on it and only repair it's needed besides routine maintenance is replacement of a broken leaf spring. I've owned Ford, GM and Dodge. They all required way more repairs/maintenance than the Tundra. Contrary to an above comment, the 2wd models are way harder to find than the 4wd. Gas mileage isn't the greatest (I average 17 mpg). Toyota parts are no more expensive than the domestics. Good luck finding a 2015 - 2020 for $20k or less with reasonable mileage on it. Tundra's hold their value.
 
Or you can enjoy driving the Tundra while a domestic truck would have been in the shop, knowing that you paid a bit more in gas to get a lot more in reliability. At 75,000 miles, the Tundra uses no oil, has not had one repair, runs perfectly, starts every time, does everything I ask of it. I drove it to Boston and back last weekend. 18-19 MPG on the highway. Mine is the 1794, so it has every convenience.

With all the BITOG threads on failures of Ford eco boost engines, GM cylinder deactivation problems, transmission failures, etc. the Tundra is a reliable, if slightly thirsty, bet.

That is exactly the decision I made several years ago. I’ll take reliable over fuel economy if it means I don’t break down and have to get recalls done to the truck.

As far as work? My Tundra tows with ease. It carries large, often dirty, bulk cargo, including used engines, landscaping materials, lumber, and moves furniture when needed. It’s a truck.

You’re really choosing repairs - having the truck out of service - over fuel cost? Your math is way off, I suspect, in support of your thinking...

The Tundra around town isn’t much worse than a domestic, and it isn’t a big difference on the highway. So, you don’t save enough on fuel to offset the cost of repairs, and having a truck down for repairs is detrimental no matter what business you’re in.

The Tundra is a solid truck, period.

I prefer the 2017 and earlier for the external transmission oil cooler but unless you tow a lot, I don’t think it matters in reliability.

The engine and transmission are bulletproof, and the V-8 sounds glorious when you rev it hard. I heard a Raptor going full throttle from a stop light the other day, he had to show me his tail-lights, I suppose, and the flatulent sound of that V-6 was just silly.

I think I’m going to go wash and wax the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned.
I wish that Toyota made a 3/4 ton truck. I would have gone that route.
 
According to Consumer Reports, between 2015-20, the 2016 Tundra had dropped in reliability(engine & tranny) to only average while the others show very good. However, the 2016 showed the best in customer satisfaction in those same years. Weird! :unsure:
2017-20 show to be the best overall.

The Tundra isn't(according to CR data) a very comfortable nor quiet truck and all seem to experience brake issues or premature brake wear and long stopping distances.
And all are very thirsty...very thirsty with fuel but they major drive systems are solid, receiving a 5 out of 5.
If you have a library card, you can go into CR website and view everything that other non-subscribers cannot see.
Satisfaction is very subjective.
My colleague had Sienna like I did and I asked him if he had soft brake pedal, as I was trying to figure if it was master cylinder.
He said: “yeah, for some time.” I am like great, he figured issue, so I asked what was it? He said: “nah, never bothered me, but it is best car I had.”
So, faulty brakes, but satisfaction through the roof.
 
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Or you can enjoy driving the Tundra while a domestic truck would have been in the shop, knowing that you paid a bit more in gas to get a lot more in reliability. At 75,000 miles, the Tundra uses no oil, has not had one repair, runs perfectly, starts every time, does everything I ask of it. I drove it to Boston and back last weekend. 18-19 MPG on the highway. Mine is the 1794, so it has every convenience.

With all the BITOG threads on failures of Ford eco boost engines, GM cylinder deactivation problems, transmission failures, etc. the Tundra is a reliable, if slightly thirsty, bet.

That is exactly the decision I made several years ago. I’ll take reliable over fuel economy if it means I don’t break down and have to get recalls done to the truck.

As far as work? My Tundra tows with ease. It carries large, often dirty, bulk cargo, including used engines, landscaping materials, lumber, and moves furniture when needed. It’s a truck.

You’re really choosing repairs - having the truck out of service - over fuel cost? Your math is way off, I suspect, in support of your thinking...

The Tundra around town isn’t much worse than a domestic, and it isn’t a big difference on the highway. So, you don’t save enough on fuel to offset the cost of repairs, and having a truck down for repairs is detrimental no matter what business you’re in.

The Tundra is a solid truck, period.

I prefer the 2017 and earlier for the external transmission oil cooler but unless you tow a lot, I don’t think it matters in reliability.

The engine and transmission are bulletproof, and the V-8 sounds glorious when you rev it hard. I heard a Raptor going full throttle from a stop light the other day, he had to show me his tail-lights, I suppose, and the flatulent sound of that V-6 was just silly.

I think I’m going to go wash and wax the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned.
My last GMC was traded at 85k - 8 years old - beat on off-road - towed … Never saw the dealership … our Tahoe is at 84k and has never seen the dealership - I actually can’t recall what I had trouble with on GM’s and unlike most SME’s here - own/drive them … Have for decades … None use/used oil …
Ford ? I can recall issues …
 
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Secondary Air Injection... When it goes - it goes. Correct repair with OEM is $4000-$5000. Aftermarket parts are $500-$800, but fail in a few months of use. A cheat code is a Hewitt Technologies bypass system, still $1000, but works great.
 
Secondary Air Injection... When it goes - it goes. Correct repair with OEM is $4000-$5000. Aftermarket parts are $500-$800, but fail in a few months of use. A cheat code is a Hewitt Technologies bypass system, still $1000, but works great.
That’s the repair a friend paid for at dealer beyond broken springs. He still loves the truck except for thirst for fuel.
 
I currently own a 2010 Tundra with the 4.6 V8. It has 190,000 miles on it and only repair it's needed besides routine maintenance is replacement of a broken leaf spring. I've owned Ford, GM and Dodge. They all required way more repairs/maintenance than the Tundra. Contrary to an above comment, the 2wd models are way harder to find than the 4wd. Gas mileage isn't the greatest (I average 17 mpg). Toyota parts are no more expensive than the domestics. Good luck finding a 2015 - 2020 for $20k or less with reasonable mileage on it. Tundra's hold their value.
Sounds like mine--I bought at 73k and traded around 160k (I think), had to clean a throttle body, a tensioner went, and the front diff had to be built (luckily under warranty!). I too broke a leaf spring, not quite sure how. 4.6 4x4 double cab with tow package, no other options. I rather liked it... but couldn't justify keeping it. :(

Looks are subjective but I didn't care for the update. Mine was a plain jane model, column shift with bench seat.

I worried a lot about the AIP system going, and what an eventual trans replacement would cost, if it ever wore out. Parking brake never worked well, and the front brakes, while they worked impressively well when they worked, well, when the pads froze to the calipers they were a real bear to remove. Had to hammer them out more than once--and those stupid pins! if I didn't take them out every 6 months, it was a battle.

I did hypermile it to nearly 22mpg (3 tanks!) using Michelin LTX's and a lot of careful driving. Otherwise it was a 16mpg machine. I'd swear, it did its best mpg in 5th gear not 6th gear, and keeping speed below 60mph.
 
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