Ripe moment for Amsoil Engine Flush?

[Alcibiades]

It's time to change the oil in the Corolla. I just drove it about 600 miles to and from south Georgia, and burned a bottle of Redline Fuel System Cleaner in anticipation of the OC. However, a significant portion of the trip, maybe between 1/4 and 1/3 of it, was spent driving through dense smoke blown in from wildfires in the Okeefenokee swamp. For some of that time, there was also noticeable ash in the air. (It smelled fabulous.

) I wonder how much of that gunk got sucked into my engine. I'd planned to change the air filter this time anyway, though I have not looked at it since I got back today. Anyway, my thinking was that if some of that stuff got into my engine, maybe the Amsoil Engine flush would thin out the oil enough to get more of it out. That will not do anything for whatever may have gotten into the combustion chamber, but I'm hoping the Redline helped that. I still had more than 1/3 of a tank to burn after the air had cleared.

On a positive note, I averaged about 40 or maybe 41 mpg on the trip. Not bad for a '93 motor.

What say you, knowledgeable folk?

 

[Donald]

Remember you need to know what (if any) kind of sludge is in your engine before using Amsoil Engine Flush. Its only for liquefied sludge, if you have any hardened sludge, you should use Auto-Rx.

 

[Alcibiades]

It isn't sludged. Varnished, but not sludged.

 

[Donald]

Then the Amsoil Engine Flush should be fine but I doubt it will do much good. You are not going to remove much varnish in 15-20 minutes of using a flush. Remember to follow the directions, 15-20 minutes at fast idle, no driving.

 

[Drew99GT]

That is why engines have air filters. I doubt much if any crud got through. Driving through a haboob/sand storm would have been 100 times worse. The air filter is what you want to be looking at.

 

[Alcibiades]

Just looked at the air filter and replaced it. The old one wasn't really that bad. The oil is draining at this moment; no Amsoil flush this time.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I beg to differ with you Donald! I have found Auto-Rx to be almost worthless even with 2 treatments to remove varnish. LC was my favorite but since they are not reliable interms of their production shipping I will leave them alone. Simple solvent flush's work very well for removeing varnish. I will agree that I like longer then most recomend 5-15 minutes can be a bit short. Normaly I like to use them at fast idle with no load ont he motor for 30 minutes. I have seen simple solvent flush's done this way remove all or close to all of the varnish in an engine so long as the oil was able to carry the solvent to those parts. Now somethimes the head area wich on a lot of engines does not get that much flow to no friction area's you will not see much. In these cases's simply poping the valve cover off and useing a parts brush or even a natural hair paint brush will do the trick! Varnish will melt off from parts if B12 chemtool is used. As a matter of fact people that doubt how much crud can be loosened in 30 minutes time with something like B12 need to do the following. Drain out the old oil from the car. Put el-cheapo dino oil in like Walmart brand. You can either use a new cheap oil filter or leave the old one on. Add a whole can of B12,Amsoil Engine Flush,Golden Eagle Engine Flush etc...... now run at fast idle for 30 minutes. Drain and put some in a mason or jelly jar etc... Look at how dirty and black/dark brown that oil got in 30 minutes!

Sludge is a different story and ARX would be my first choice!

 

[Donald]

Quote:

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I beg to differ with you Donald! I have found Auto-Rx to be almost worthless even with 2 treatments to remove varnish. LC was my favorite but since they are not reliable interms of their production shipping I will leave them alone. Simple solvent flush's work very well for removeing varnish. I will agree that I like longer then most recomend 5-15 minutes can be a bit short. Normaly I like to use them at fast idle with no load ont he motor for 30 minutes. I have seen simple solvent flush's done this way remove all or close to all of the varnish in an engine so long as the oil was able to carry the solvent to those parts. Now somethimes the head area wich on a lot of engines does not get that much flow to no friction area's you will not see much. In these cases's simply poping the valve cover off and useing a parts brush or even a natural hair paint brush will do the trick! Varnish will melt off from parts if B12 chemtool is used. As a matter of fact people that doubt how much crud can be loosened in 30 minutes time with something like B12 need to do the following. Drain out the old oil from the car. Put el-cheapo dino oil in like Walmart brand. You can either use a new cheap oil filter or leave the old one on. Add a whole can of B12,Amsoil Engine Flush,Golden Eagle Engine Flush etc...... now run at fast idle for 30 minutes. Drain and put some in a mason or jelly jar etc... Look at how dirty and black/dark brown that oil got in 30 minutes!

Sludge is a different story and ARX would be my first choice!

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I believe I read that Amsoil Engine Flush contains a large quantity of the same detergents included in their synthetic oil as well as some oil as a lubricant. I do not think its contains solvents like the other 5 minute flushes. Amsoil Tech Support said it was for liquified sludge rather than hardened slusge. Thus I was not confident it would remove varnish.

 

[daman]

Quote:

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Add a whole can of B12,Amsoil Engine Flush,Golden Eagle Engine Flush etc...... now run at fast idle for 30 minutes.

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Thats alot of flushes to be putting in a engine all at once, or
do you mean pick one.

 

[Tempest]

Quote:

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I do not think its contains solvents like the other 5 minute flushes.

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Engine Flush MSDS

Sorry...solvents.