Well these bearings are not permanent. They only need to last until I need a new rotor.
reuse bearings on a new rotor/hub
- Thread starter Donald
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Originally Posted By: Donald
Well these bearings are not permanent. They only need to last until I need a new rotor.
Nothing is permanent.
Well these bearings are not permanent. They only need to last until I need a new rotor.
Nothing is permanent.
I cleaned the new rotor surfaces with water & dish detergent? Then wiped them dry. Is that the proper method?
Originally Posted By: Donald
I cleaned the new rotor surfaces with water & dish detergent? Then wiped them dry. Is that the proper method?
That is was Ford recommends, wash with hot soapy water before installation.
I cleaned the new rotor surfaces with water & dish detergent? Then wiped them dry. Is that the proper method?
That is was Ford recommends, wash with hot soapy water before installation.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
Don't reuse old bearings on new races. They will fail, Just a matter of when. Go buy a new bearing and race SET. Yeah it's a little more work but it's the right way to do the job.
FWIW Ford sells the races and bearings separately on the taper roller style. So they are not a matched set from the manufacturer.
Right.
SERIOUS tempest in a teacup here. There's absolutely nothing wrong with reinstalling *good* (not damaged!) rollers and inner race on a new outer race in a new rotor (or drum... that's how far back I've been doing it). Its standard procedure on many vehicles... Provided you follow the installation procedure. Tighten center nut to specified torque and TURN THE ROTOR a few turns to seat everything, then BACK OFF as specified to set the clearance. If you feel any uneven dragging when turning with the nut torqued, THEN there's a problem with the race not being pressed straight.
Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
Don't reuse old bearings on new races. They will fail, Just a matter of when. Go buy a new bearing and race SET. Yeah it's a little more work but it's the right way to do the job.
FWIW Ford sells the races and bearings separately on the taper roller style. So they are not a matched set from the manufacturer.
Right.
SERIOUS tempest in a teacup here. There's absolutely nothing wrong with reinstalling *good* (not damaged!) rollers and inner race on a new outer race in a new rotor (or drum... that's how far back I've been doing it). Its standard procedure on many vehicles... Provided you follow the installation procedure. Tighten center nut to specified torque and TURN THE ROTOR a few turns to seat everything, then BACK OFF as specified to set the clearance. If you feel any uneven dragging when turning with the nut torqued, THEN there's a problem with the race not being pressed straight.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
Don't reuse old bearings on new races. They will fail, Just a matter of when. Go buy a new bearing and race SET. Yeah it's a little more work but it's the right way to do the job.
FWIW Ford sells the races and bearings separately on the taper roller style. So they are not a matched set from the manufacturer.
Right.
SERIOUS tempest in a teacup here. There's absolutely nothing wrong with reinstalling *good* (not damaged!) rollers and inner race on a new outer race in a new rotor (or drum... that's how far back I've been doing it). Its standard procedure on many vehicles... Provided you follow the installation procedure. Tighten center nut to specified torque and TURN THE ROTOR a few turns to seat everything, then BACK OFF as specified to set the clearance. If you feel any uneven dragging when turning with the nut torqued, THEN there's a problem with the race not being pressed straight.
So what do you do when the races don't match the bearings at all? As in different angle all together on the races. I ran into this doing front rotors on my old ranger. Granted they were cheap junk rotors but it happens.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
Don't reuse old bearings on new races. They will fail, Just a matter of when. Go buy a new bearing and race SET. Yeah it's a little more work but it's the right way to do the job.
FWIW Ford sells the races and bearings separately on the taper roller style. So they are not a matched set from the manufacturer.
Right.
SERIOUS tempest in a teacup here. There's absolutely nothing wrong with reinstalling *good* (not damaged!) rollers and inner race on a new outer race in a new rotor (or drum... that's how far back I've been doing it). Its standard procedure on many vehicles... Provided you follow the installation procedure. Tighten center nut to specified torque and TURN THE ROTOR a few turns to seat everything, then BACK OFF as specified to set the clearance. If you feel any uneven dragging when turning with the nut torqued, THEN there's a problem with the race not being pressed straight.
So what do you do when the races don't match the bearings at all? As in different angle all together on the races. I ran into this doing front rotors on my old ranger. Granted they were cheap junk rotors but it happens.
Originally Posted By: ms21043
Yes, lets go buy the cheapest offshore rotor we can find and then worry about installing made in USA aerospace quality bearing races in them...
LMAO It's probably done thousands of times a day. I have come a long way over the years and now search out the highest quality parts I can find. And at times that isn't easy.
Yes, lets go buy the cheapest offshore rotor we can find and then worry about installing made in USA aerospace quality bearing races in them...
LMAO It's probably done thousands of times a day. I have come a long way over the years and now search out the highest quality parts I can find. And at times that isn't easy.
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Sure ain't easy.
Several years ago I bought some cheap Rotors and man oh man did it cost me. They came with new races installed. As I did not know any better nor have the confidence or proper tools to install the ones which came with my New Timken bearings at that time, I just used the races which came pre installed.
10 k miles later, Lots of noise. The taper of race and bearing were different. One race was spinning in the rotor bore. The rollers were burnt and pitted on one side and almost pristine on the other.
More recently I got rid of those Chinese Duralast rotors for some Mexican made Brembos. SKF races and bearings. No issues, yet.
Several years ago I bought some cheap Rotors and man oh man did it cost me. They came with new races installed. As I did not know any better nor have the confidence or proper tools to install the ones which came with my New Timken bearings at that time, I just used the races which came pre installed.
10 k miles later, Lots of noise. The taper of race and bearing were different. One race was spinning in the rotor bore. The rollers were burnt and pitted on one side and almost pristine on the other.
More recently I got rid of those Chinese Duralast rotors for some Mexican made Brembos. SKF races and bearings. No issues, yet.
Kestas
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Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
So what do you do when the races don't match the bearings at all? As in different angle all together on the races. I ran into this doing front rotors on my old ranger. Granted they were cheap junk rotors but it happens.
Don't buy them again. Because it happened to you doesn't mean every race that comes with the rotor has bad geometry.
So what do you do when the races don't match the bearings at all? As in different angle all together on the races. I ran into this doing front rotors on my old ranger. Granted they were cheap junk rotors but it happens.
Don't buy them again. Because it happened to you doesn't mean every race that comes with the rotor has bad geometry.
Well, even when I buy "name brand" rotors, I do a dry fit check dropping the inboard and outboard bearings into the rotor races and feeling for fit. If the angle is wrong, the bearing will not feel "locked" into a concentric fit with the rotor.
I mean seriously... 30-second check before you start getting things greasy.
I mean seriously... 30-second check before you start getting things greasy.
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