Just find an identical PCM from the junkyard and have it rekeyed to your vehicle, that would probably be the cheapest and most reliable option. The reman businesses are unfortunately just a waste of time and money.
Replacement PCM
- Thread starter AJB0009
- Start date
I also used this company for an ECM , 06 Sebring convertible. Replaced one with a shorted #1 injector driver. Worked perfectly.
2004 Ford Explorer PCM | ECM | ECU | 4.0L | VIN Programmed & Updated
Engine Computer fitting all 2004 Ford Explorer 4.0L models. Compatibility will vary for these units, please review the list below to ensure it will fit your vehicle.www.fs1inc.com
I have used this place once for a 2007 Jeep Compass. Plug and play. No issues at all. I recommend them
Don
Pretty sure you can disable the PATS with HP-Tuners (2004 4.0L Explorer is a supported vehicle)
I would absolutely love to drop it off at Brian's shop. I would be afraid to try to drive it that far though. He is in Chicago IL, about 850 or so miles away from me. I have e-mailed with him about it.
I have used all new OEM parts from the dealer, except for the EGR valve.
Well, I purchased a used PCM from a junkyard near Columbia, SC. I paid $75 for the PCM. With tax and shipping I had a few cents under $90 in it. I went to a local locksmith whom I talked to on the phone. I swapped the PCM in his parking lot (takes about 15 minutes). He plugged in and did his thing and within another ten minutes it was running with both of my keys working. He wanted $120; negotiated to $100 cash.
A couple notes:
The ABS light is on now. My theory: The used PCM came out of a Mercury. The Mercury probably had Advance Track stability control, my Explorer does not. I wonder if the PCM is looking for more chassis inputs (yaw sensor, others, etc.) that my vehicle does not have.
It mainly fixed my problem. I say mainly. When it was hot outside and the engine compartment was hot, and put under load, it would buck or jerk. The hotter, the worse the symptom. Also, if the A/C was on, it was much worse.
I have put on a few hundred miles on since the swap. On one hot day, after a long drive, with the A/C on, while going up a hill, it jerked slightly once. I would call it a 98% improvement.
A couple notes:
The ABS light is on now. My theory: The used PCM came out of a Mercury. The Mercury probably had Advance Track stability control, my Explorer does not. I wonder if the PCM is looking for more chassis inputs (yaw sensor, others, etc.) that my vehicle does not have.
It mainly fixed my problem. I say mainly. When it was hot outside and the engine compartment was hot, and put under load, it would buck or jerk. The hotter, the worse the symptom. Also, if the A/C was on, it was much worse.
I have put on a few hundred miles on since the swap. On one hot day, after a long drive, with the A/C on, while going up a hill, it jerked slightly once. I would call it a 98% improvement.
Did the PCM part # match the old one? Did they program your replacement with Ford software for your VIN?
Yes, all the numbers matched exactly. They did not have Ford software. So, the VIN in the PCM is still from the donor Mercury.
Looking back at my post now, I did not word that very clearly. The PCM is for sure out of a Mercury Mountaineer. My theory is that vehicle had stability control. My Explorer for sure does not.
Speaking of theories, after talking about this with a couple friends, one thought we have is this: There may be a variable voltage power supply in the PCM for the throttle body. It may be failing due to heat. When it gets hot and the vehicle is put under load (going up a hill, the A/C being on, etc.) that power supply my shut off for a fraction of a second, and then come back on. That would cause the butterfly valve to close for a fraction of a second, then open back up; thus, causing a jerk.
I tried to get the old PCM open to have a look inside, but after an hour I gave up for fear of breaking something. It is sealed with windshield urethane. I have it part of the way open, but cannot get any farther. I would like to check into having my old unit refurbished possibly.
So the PCM is not programmed and that is your issue.
Get it programmed properly as it is more than just the VIN that is involved. The software installed will be VIN specific to your truck and that means everything including options such as the stability etc. You can't just grab a PCM from one truck and stick it in another.
There is an SSM for this:
| SSM 51536 2000-2024 Various Vehicles - Errors Caused By Swapping Modules From Like Vehicles Or Ordering Modules Using Another VIN |
| For 2000-2024 Ford and Lincoln vehicles, swapping a module from a vehicle for diagnosis purposes is likely to cause errors and is not recommended. It is also not recommended to order a replacement module using a vehicle identification number (VIN) from a different vehicle. Most modules on these affected vehicles are VIN/vehicle specific and hardware variations between modules do exist. Swapping a module from a vehicle or ordering a module using a different vehicle/VIN can cause ineffective repairs and additional vehicle down time. Make sure all appropriate Workshop Manual (WSM) procedures are followed when diagnosing the condition prior to all module replacements and only order modules using the correct VIN. |
GM issued the same/similar statement as well years ago
So many people have walked into parts with a junkyard PCM wanting us to program it. First off, we cant in parts. Second the vehicle has to be in service to download the stored info in the PCM present in the vehicle, then change them out, then upload to the "new" one or else program via as-built. I know there are places that can do it out of the car, but a dealer is not one of them.
Sorry, rant off.
Whoa, easy fellas, easy.
Remember that we are dealing with a 20-year-old beater here, worth a few thousand bucks, on a good day. I have less than $200 in this PCM swap. I figured it was a low-risk trial.
There are multiple engineering numbers and multiple four-digit calibration codes. I made sure those were identical. If those were different, I could see where a person could potentially have problems.
Other than the ABS light being on, you would never know anything was changed. It starts, runs, drives, shifts, etc. exactly the same, no detectible differences whatsoever. And, by and large, it fixed what I wanted it to fix. Overall, I would call this pretty successful.
If my buddy and I can play around with it and get the ABS light off, great. If not, it will not bother me, it's not a big deal. Again, remember what we are dealing with here. Obviously, I would not do this on a late model vehicle worth some money.
Remember that we are dealing with a 20-year-old beater here, worth a few thousand bucks, on a good day. I have less than $200 in this PCM swap. I figured it was a low-risk trial.
There are multiple engineering numbers and multiple four-digit calibration codes. I made sure those were identical. If those were different, I could see where a person could potentially have problems.
Other than the ABS light being on, you would never know anything was changed. It starts, runs, drives, shifts, etc. exactly the same, no detectible differences whatsoever. And, by and large, it fixed what I wanted it to fix. Overall, I would call this pretty successful.
If my buddy and I can play around with it and get the ABS light off, great. If not, it will not bother me, it's not a big deal. Again, remember what we are dealing with here. Obviously, I would not do this on a late model vehicle worth some money.
I'm late to the game here, and it sounds like the PCM was bad, but I would have considered spraying the original one with a freeze spray to see if the symptoms resolved for a few minutes.
But regardless, congratulations on your fix.
You missed my point or perhaps I was not clear. You MUST program the replacement module to YOUR vehicle. You CANNOT take from one vehicle and plug into another without programming and be successful. That is why you are having these issues. The numbers you matched up are only the BASE software (common code) and the module part numbers. From there ADDITIONAL UNIQUE software for your truck must be loaded (programmed) that makes it YOUR truck. This programming brings all your unique calibration files and other items per your VIN to work in your truck properly. (I was a GM engineer for many years working on modules so please trust me on this).
Maybe there is a misunderstanding somewhere here. You say, "That is why you are having these issues".
What issues am I having?
You say, "You CANNOT take from one vehicle and plug into another without programming and be successful".
We did.
Seriously, I am not being a smart Alic at all.
The thing runs exactly as it did before, except the problem I was having (bucking/jerking) is gone for the most part.
The ABS light is on. Again, on my 20-year-old beater that I drive back and forth to work I am not losing any sleep over this.
The issue with the bucking and jerking made it tough to drive in the heat of summer.
I mean all of this with the utmost respect to each of you. I appreciate your concerns and input.
The issues you are having is lights on for stabilty etc because you have a PCM from a Mercury Mountainer in your FORD Explorer. The option content is different and the part needs programed to the FORD to work without those issues. That part was very clear in your thread from the start where the issues were mentioned. A correct PCM and programmed PCM is MORE than just "that it drives ok".
You are having a really hard time with reading comprehension here. You clearly saw the posts that FORD and others have issues statements that you cannot do swap parts from vehicle to vehicle w/o programming and OTHER posters with experience also chimed in. I will add again that I am very experienced in modules having been a GM engineer as well as own my own successful car repair shop. The reason you can't do this is because it won't work 100% on older vehicles and on newer vehicles it will actually brick the modules and then you have major issues.
Not being mean but I (and others) are just trying to explain to you the PROPER methods and reasons behind module swaps. I understand yours is working from a drive it perspective but the other issues with the abs/stabilty are due to the module not being programmed. The part number matching is just a small part of the entire equation. Trust me - if you get it programmed you will have even better drivability as well as other options/calibrations being correct that you may not have seen yet.
-Good luck to you with this - I mean that for real. Trust us on BITOG as there is a lot of knowledge and help and people really care!
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