Reman CV Axle Shafts
- Thread starter The Critic
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"There's no warranty coverage for this since it has 87k; 10/100k warranty only covers the joint itself, boots are only covered for 5/60k."
I'd wait for the joint to make noise, then have the dealer replace it. Are they going to replace just the joint and leave the boot alone? Separate out the cost between the joint replacement vs boot? Sure I'll give ya $8 for the boot, you take care of the joint, though.
If joint = warranted
Boot covers joint...
Therefore...?
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
I'd wait for the joint to make noise, then have the dealer replace it. Are they going to replace just the joint and leave the boot alone? Separate out the cost between the joint replacement vs boot? Sure I'll give ya $8 for the boot, you take care of the joint, though.
If joint = warranted
Boot covers joint...
Therefore...?
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
Originally Posted By: surfstar
"There's no warranty coverage for this since it has 87k; 10/100k warranty only covers the joint itself, boots are only covered for 5/60k."
I'd wait for the joint to make noise, then have the dealer replace it. Are they going to replace just the joint and leave the boot alone? Separate out the cost between the joint replacement vs boot? Sure I'll give ya $8 for the boot, you take care of the joint, though.
If joint = warranted
Boot covers joint...
Therefore...?
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
Once the boot is broken, the warranty on the joint is void.
"There's no warranty coverage for this since it has 87k; 10/100k warranty only covers the joint itself, boots are only covered for 5/60k."
I'd wait for the joint to make noise, then have the dealer replace it. Are they going to replace just the joint and leave the boot alone? Separate out the cost between the joint replacement vs boot? Sure I'll give ya $8 for the boot, you take care of the joint, though.
If joint = warranted
Boot covers joint...
Therefore...?
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
Once the boot is broken, the warranty on the joint is void.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: surfstar
"There's no warranty coverage for this since it has 87k; 10/100k warranty only covers the joint itself, boots are only covered for 5/60k."
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
Once the boot is broken, the warranty on the joint is void.
They are pulling the rug off your feet, have you contacted the HQ and complain? and politely remind them that if this is the case you'd try to force them to pay for it in small claim or contact the medias?
At least try to force them to pay for a huge part of it (i.e. labor cost and half of the part).
Originally Posted By: surfstar
"There's no warranty coverage for this since it has 87k; 10/100k warranty only covers the joint itself, boots are only covered for 5/60k."
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
Once the boot is broken, the warranty on the joint is void.
They are pulling the rug off your feet, have you contacted the HQ and complain? and politely remind them that if this is the case you'd try to force them to pay for it in small claim or contact the medias?
At least try to force them to pay for a huge part of it (i.e. labor cost and half of the part).
I put NAPA remanufactured half-axles on one of my cars about 5 years ago and since then have put about 50,000 miles on them and the boots still looked almost new when I was under the car this weekend.
Ha - nice 'warranty'.
I'd slap on an auto store lifetime warrantied reman CV - never had a problem with one of those and if I did, it'd be easy to swap again.
I'd slap on an auto store lifetime warrantied reman CV - never had a problem with one of those and if I did, it'd be easy to swap again.
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
If I were in this situation I'd probably just replace the boot and grease if the joint wasn't making noise.
Raxles may also be a good choice, if they have axles for that application. They actually replace the joint in the axle, instead of regrinding.
http://www.raxles.com/
I probably wouldn't personally take a gamble with a parts store axle, new or rebuilt. As many of you know, "new" from an auto parts store doesn't necessarily mean good quality or equivalent quality to the original part.
I've bought from Raxles before. I agree, they're good.
If I were in this situation I'd probably just replace the boot and grease if the joint wasn't making noise.
Raxles may also be a good choice, if they have axles for that application. They actually replace the joint in the axle, instead of regrinding.
http://www.raxles.com/
I probably wouldn't personally take a gamble with a parts store axle, new or rebuilt. As many of you know, "new" from an auto parts store doesn't necessarily mean good quality or equivalent quality to the original part.
I've bought from Raxles before. I agree, they're good.
In this situation, the "win-win" solution is to present the options to the "customer" and let them make the decision. I do this all the time with my adult kids. Depending on the circumstances, sometimes I push the better parts (difficult, time consuming labor/critical part). Other times, they choose the "less better" aftermarket parts, again, based on the specific circumstances.
In your case, if the lifetime NAPA part goes bad in 2 years, the customer still feels good that they only have to cover labor, IF it does go bad.
In any case, make the customer choose so you are not blamed (no good deed goes unpunished).
In your case, if the lifetime NAPA part goes bad in 2 years, the customer still feels good that they only have to cover labor, IF it does go bad.
In any case, make the customer choose so you are not blamed (no good deed goes unpunished).
If you see yourself doing a few CV boots in the future, there's also the option of getting a quickshot CV boot kit. The tool costs about as much as four reman axles, but you do get to keep the original metal and have less mess and less work than using a normal replacement boot.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Ummm, each of my w123 MBs has two, and my E30 BMW has two also, coming off the differential.
Last I checked, my 135i doesnt have a Dana rear, so it likely has two as well...
No, I am saying that very few German cars have CV axles in front compared to ones that have CV axles in the rear.
Ummm, each of my w123 MBs has two, and my E30 BMW has two also, coming off the differential.
Last I checked, my 135i doesnt have a Dana rear, so it likely has two as well...
No, I am saying that very few German cars have CV axles in front compared to ones that have CV axles in the rear.
Originally Posted By: surfstar
...
If joint = warranted
Boot covers joint...
Therefore...?
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
As a Hyundai owner here, I say perhaps Hyundai stands behind their 10/100 warranty, but their dealers do not, so effectively Hyundai does not either.
...
If joint = warranted
Boot covers joint...
Therefore...?
They tout their 10y/100k warranty, lets see them stand behind it.
As a Hyundai owner here, I say perhaps Hyundai stands behind their 10/100 warranty, but their dealers do not, so effectively Hyundai does not either.
Don't get the remaufactured or rebuilt axles. They suck. Yes, this is based upon personal experience.
I've replaced axles on both a VW and an Audi. Both times I started with the reman units. Both times, I got [censored] rebuilds and had to pull one or both of them and use the warrenty to try again. On my latest go-around I used Raxles, and got MUCH better units right from the start, that worked perfectly.
Its my suggestion to go right to raxles, and swap the entire axle. It will show up at your door. Pull the old, slide in teh new, send back the old in the packaging they supply...done.
VW/Audi axles appear to be higher quality than what you get when you get a rebuild. I will steer clear from rebuilds on CV axles from now on. OEM or raxles...
Its my suggestion to go right to raxles, and swap the entire axle. It will show up at your door. Pull the old, slide in teh new, send back the old in the packaging they supply...done.
VW/Audi axles appear to be higher quality than what you get when you get a rebuild. I will steer clear from rebuilds on CV axles from now on. OEM or raxles...
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Guys, thanks for the suggestion to reboot, but given my lack of time, need for immediate turnaround and lack of facilities - it isn't an option.
What do you mean? Your not doing the work for them?
The amount of work to replace and axle almost always equal to the time it takes you to reboot it. Actually in some cases its less work to reboot. Ive seen on youtube those expandable boots with a tool. All you need is to get the hub off the axle and use the tool to stretch a boot over.
Its always a little messy to reboot then to R/I but still a little cheaper.
Guys, thanks for the suggestion to reboot, but given my lack of time, need for immediate turnaround and lack of facilities - it isn't an option.
What do you mean? Your not doing the work for them?
The amount of work to replace and axle almost always equal to the time it takes you to reboot it. Actually in some cases its less work to reboot. Ive seen on youtube those expandable boots with a tool. All you need is to get the hub off the axle and use the tool to stretch a boot over.
Its always a little messy to reboot then to R/I but still a little cheaper.
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Guys, thanks for the suggestion to reboot, but given my lack of time, need for immediate turnaround and lack of facilities - it isn't an option.
What do you mean? Your not doing the work for them?
The amount of work to replace and axle almost always equal to the time it takes you to reboot it. Actually in some cases its less work to reboot. Ive seen on youtube those expandable boots with a tool. All you need is to get the hub off the axle and use the tool to stretch a boot over.
Its always a little messy to reboot then to R/I but still a little cheaper.
Replacing an axle is less labor. Any shop that puts a warranty behind their work will not use the split clamps.
When paying for the work, the hour less labor to just do an axle usually makes up the parts price difference, plus the parts warranty is usually higher on an axle vs. a boot.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Guys, thanks for the suggestion to reboot, but given my lack of time, need for immediate turnaround and lack of facilities - it isn't an option.
What do you mean? Your not doing the work for them?
The amount of work to replace and axle almost always equal to the time it takes you to reboot it. Actually in some cases its less work to reboot. Ive seen on youtube those expandable boots with a tool. All you need is to get the hub off the axle and use the tool to stretch a boot over.
Its always a little messy to reboot then to R/I but still a little cheaper.
Replacing an axle is less labor. Any shop that puts a warranty behind their work will not use the split clamps.
When paying for the work, the hour less labor to just do an axle usually makes up the parts price difference, plus the parts warranty is usually higher on an axle vs. a boot.
Update - the owner got the car fixed at a shop and they put in a reman axle. I was doing some other work tonight and during the test drive, I noticed that the car now vibrates very noticeably in the 10-25 mph range...mostly front the L/F corner.
I think the reman axle is defective (possibly bad inner joint??) and advised her to take it back to the shop.
I think the reman axle is defective (possibly bad inner joint??) and advised her to take it back to the shop.
Ditto to update....
I had to replace reman axles on the Altima after less than a year...OEM next time...if/when there is a next time...
I had to replace reman axles on the Altima after less than a year...OEM next time...if/when there is a next time...
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