CV Axle Replacement or Rebuild?

[Fitz98]

98 Expedition 5.4 4x4 250k miles.
Problems. I heard a slight grinding noise and vibration at higher speed (above 40 mph) that change with speed, not RPM. Goes away on one turn, stays on the opposite turn. (I don't recall which was which). I inspected the front parts and determined I need a new upper control arm ball joint on passenger side, that is for sure.
The boot on the passenger side CV axle is broken completely. It is a remanufactured Duralast that is about 5 years old. Lifetime replacement warranty, but they don't offer remans anymore, so it will cost about 50.00 difference in price to get a new Duralast.
The drivers side is not making any clicking noise, but seems to have a little play when twisting shaft not a lot, but some. It is original with about 250k on it.
I am not sure if some play is normal or not.
1) trying to determine if bad upper ball joint could cause the vibration and slight grinding noise while driving, or if cv axle(s) could be contributing as well.
2) Is it better to rebuild the original CV axle on driver side, leave it until it starts clicking noises, or replace and if so, replace with what brand?
3) Rebuild and/or re-boot AZ axle, or get a replacement (50.00). If rebuild, where to get rebuild kits

 

[The Critic]

1) Fix the obvious issues before diagnosing further.

2) No noise, no vibration, no torn boot = ignore for now.

3) Motorcraft for $163 from rockauto.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Get new OE axles and be glad you can still get OE new axles

 

[bdcardinal]

1) Fix the obvious issues before diagnosing further.

2) No noise, no vibration, no torn boot = ignore for now.

3) Motorcraft for $163 from rockauto.

That's a really good price on those axles.

Let me know if you want the shop manual page on it.

 

[atikovi]

It is a remanufactured Duralast that is about 5 years old. Lifetime replacement warranty, but they don't offer remans anymore, so it will cost about 50.00 difference in price to get a new Duralast.

Why should that be your problem that they can't replace what they sold under the terms of the warranty? Will they at least give your money back so you can buy from someplace else?

 

[Krieg]

I would purchase OEM. However; I've used Cvjreman. I purchased upgraded silicone boots which lasted five years. I had a special application...

 

[AutoMechanic]

Since you don’t have OEM axles I’d buy new OEM ones .

 

[14Accent]

On a truck like that, I'd pay them the $50 and throw the new replacement unit in it. What is the retail price on the axle that AZ is offering? I'd bet it's more than what you paid for the reman 5 years ago +$50.

I know lots of members here look down on the cheap "100% new" Chinese axles in the market, as do I in certain applications. However, in this case, it's exactly the route I would take.

 

[Fitz98]

That's a really good price on those axles.

Let me know if you want the shop manual page on it.

Can you confirm part number for axle.
Rock Auto part numbers MOTORCRAFT TX468 {#3L3Z3B436AA, 5L3Z3B436A}
Shop manual page may be helpful. Remove and replace is easy enough, but I want to make sure I get my torques right.

 

[partspro]

Can you confirm part number for axle.
Rock Auto part numbers MOTORCRAFT TX468 {#3L3Z3B436AA, 5L3Z3B436A}
Shop manual page may be helpful. Remove and replace is easy enough, but I want to make sure I get my torques right.

The torque on the axle nut is critical, the rest not so much

 

[repairman54]

Changing axle shaft might as well put a new hub assy. in whiles it's apart.

 

[bdcardinal]

The original number was F65Z-3B436-AA/TX-280 which was updated to 3L3Z-3B436-AA/TX-410 which was updated to 5L3Z-3B436-A/TX-468.

 

[tasch72]

@Fitz98 did you personally confirm with AZ that there is going to be a fee to replace the duralast axle under warranty?

Any time I've had an issue with a part that has been superceded later, I did not have to pay the difference because it was in honor of the warranty. If you did confirm this, I would call a different store and ask their manager to double check with them.

Or, just ask to just return the broken axle under warranty and take your money elsewhere so at least you aren't stuck with a broken axle and no money. I've done this before with a battery that died under warranty from O'Reilly. I took my $130 back and went to Costco and paid $100.

FYI through AAP's website, you can get a New, LT Warranty CV axle for $109+ tax and you can use code "flyingsparks25" for 25% off and free shipping if you don't have a store nearby to pick up from.

 

[partspro]

98 Expedition 5.4 4x4 250k miles.
Problems. I heard a slight grinding noise and vibration at higher speed (above 40 mph) that change with speed, not RPM. Goes away on one turn, stays on the opposite turn. (I don't recall which was which). I inspected the front parts and determined I need a new upper control arm ball joint on passenger side, that is for sure.
The boot on the passenger side CV axle is broken completely. It is a remanufactured Duralast that is about 5 years old. Lifetime replacement warranty, but they don't offer remans anymore, so it will cost about 50.00 difference in price to get a new Duralast.
The drivers side is not making any clicking noise, but seems to have a little play when twisting shaft not a lot, but some. It is original with about 250k on it.
I am not sure if some play is normal or not.
1) trying to determine if bad upper ball joint could cause the vibration and slight grinding noise while driving, or if cv axle(s) could be contributing as well.
2) Is it better to rebuild the original CV axle on driver side, leave it until it starts clicking noises, or replace and if so, replace with what brand?
3) Rebuild and/or re-boot AZ axle, or get a replacement (50.00). If rebuild, where to get rebuild kits

Do not try to rebuild yourself. Rebuilt is better than 'new' if you can find one with the OEM core. New are poor quality in most cases.

 

[Fitz98]

The original number was F65Z-3B436-AA/TX-280 which was updated to 3L3Z-3B436-AA/TX-410 which was updated to 5L3Z-3B436-A/TX-468.

Thanks, I will go with that one from RA. Stopped by my local dealership on my way home today. They gave me part # 3UTZ-3V427-FARM using my VIN #.
As long as the 5L3Z-3B436-A/TX-468 is a legit Motorcraft part and fits, I don't mind paying the extra $$$ for this one.