READ PLEASE! 5w20 vs 5w30 engine life? opinions ?

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This entire argument is a joke. My snow blower from the 1970's has a sticker on the side next to the oil filler recommending the use of 5w20 motor oil. I bet CAFE had everything to do with that back in the late 1970's and it was to lower emissions, right? It wasn't that the engineers knew the benefits of having a thinner oil for cold starting and start-up wear. Or maybe they wanted the motors to fail? Funny, it still runs excellent after all these years.
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skyship, what is the relative difference in wear when running a Toyota OEM filter with less than 50% efficiency at 5k intervals vs a aftermarket filter with 99% efficiency at 3k intervals?

You claim that oil filter efficiency is the real bad aspect of short oci's. so prove it with some real numbers instead of your own theory.

Millions of Toyotas, Lexus and Scions use this inefficient OEM filter and millions of them have had short 5k intervals on them. Yet they are the most reliable cars in the world.

In the US, oil and oil changes have always been cheap. It is a well known fact that a lower price drives more business. People in the US eat out a lot because they perceive it to be cheaper and faster than cooking at home. That's the way the market developed and if the oil meets those requirements then so what?

One advantage of the more frequent oci as a standard is that it works for the lowest common denominator. Most people don't think things through enough to optimize maintenance and when oil changes are $20 why would you overthink it? But there will be a sizeable minority for whom the 3k oci was actually appropriate so this worked out fine for them. And what if they went to their local trustworthy mechanic who was therefore more likely to spot something else wrong with the car? That's not a bad by product of more frequent visits.

I would be certain that less people drive around on low oil in the US then they do in much of Europe. I've even seen evidence of this problem in the UK. And the high prices of oil and labor put people off from doing an oil change earlier than what the manufacturer says. Hmmm I wonder if that is against the consumer interest and in the manufacturers interest instead? I've certainly seen vehicles that were not well served by extended oci's in Europe.
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan
This entire argument is a joke. My snow blower from the 1970's has a sticker on the side next to the oil filler recommending the use of 5w20 motor oil. I bet CAFE had everything to do with that back in the late 1970's and it was to lower emissions, right? It wasn't that the engineers knew the benefits of having a thinner oil for cold starting and start-up wear. Or maybe they wanted the motors to fail? Funny, it still runs excellent after all these years.
whistle.gif



Cool, what engine is on it? Mine, from around 2000 calls for 5W30, I've been using 0W30 for quite a few years now. Works like a champ, although it has seen no use last year, or this year at all.
 
I will agree that here we change our oil sooner than in Europe. Oil is cheap. As compared to Europe. The manufacturer makes the oil relative to the oil change interval.
If CAFE mandated 20000 mile intervals here I guarantee oil companies would make an oil that would last that long.
It's relative. Sunkship's stance is flawed but he is too dug in to see it. Our motors last longer than the vehicle it's bolted into,just like in Europe. This whole discussion is becoming redundant. Sunkship keeps pushing his slop with no evidence that a thicker oil extends a vehicles service life.
No point in even answering this muppet anymore, he isn't listening which is fine since no one takes anything he writes as anything but slop.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I will agree that here we change our oil sooner than in Europe. Oil is cheap. As compared to Europe. The manufacturer makes the oil relative to the oil change interval.
If CAFE mandated 20000 mile intervals here I guarantee oil companies would make an oil that would last that long.
It's relative. Sunkship's stance is flawed but he is too dug in to see it. Our motors last longer than the vehicle it's bolted into,just like in Europe. This whole discussion is becoming redundant. Sunkship keeps pushing his slop with no evidence that a thicker oil extends a vehicles service life.
No point in even answering this muppet anymore, he isn't listening which is fine since no one takes anything he writes as anything but slop.



Agreed--but it is entertaining reading
 
Originally Posted By: dedonderosa
READ THIS OVER ON A MUSTANG FORUM BUT WANTED TO GET SOME OTHER OPINION ON THIS

ORIGINAL LINK

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-mustang-talk/379969-5w20-vs-5w30-debate-rages.html

SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil
Should you use it in your vehicle??
The answer is simple:
You get about 1% better fuel economy, but you get 30% shorter engine life !
The above statement is based on real life experience and is comparison to SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil.
Unfortunately, in order for you to fully understand that short answer, some lengthy explanation is in order...
The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) developed, in June 1911, the SAE J300 standard that specifies Engine Oil Viscosity Classification.
Before SAE came up with this scheme to classify oils by their relative viscosities (in plain terms that the motoring public could easily understand) there was no simple way to tell how oil would behave in automotive engine when hot. Back then oils had no W rating, which stands for Winter. Since cars were seldom driven in winter this was not a real problem. The roads were generally impassable and vehicles usually not capable of starting when temperatures approached freezing.
The original SAE viscosity ratings were based on how quickly a specific quantity of motor oil
flowed through a test orifice when heated to operating temperature (specified as 100°C or 212°F).
The SAE Viscosity Number or Grade according to the initial SAE J300 standard was simply an average time in seconds that tested oil would take to flow through the test apparatus. Since SAE did not want to confuse the public with hundreds of numbers and the simple test yielded different times for different experimenters, it was decided to assign the grades in range steps rather than absolute test values.
Therefore the SAE Viscosity Number according to the SAE J300 standard was
(and still is) an approximation and NOT an exact measure
Any oil that took from 5 to 14 seconds to flow would be SAE 10;
Oil that would take 15 to 24 seconds would be labeled as SAE 20;
Oil that took 25 to 34 seconds would be SAE 30;
And so on until SAE 50;
In the original SAE J300 specifications there was no SAE 5 or SAE 60 grade.
The science of Rheology was not well developed at that time, and automotive engineers were neither scientists nor physicists. Therefore it took several years before the SAE J300 staircase was translated from time measurement numbers in a crude instrument into a scientific viscosity values for viscosity expressed in Poise.
By then the J300 SAE Standard was also recognized, but not adapted by API (American Petroleum Institute) and hundreds of oil producers had thousands of cans of oil with SAE numbers already in the market place. So as not to confuse the motorists, who by then gotten used to buying motor oils identified by SAE numbers, the numbering system that by then did not relate to anything comprehensible was maintained.
As far as the author of this article could find the oldest SAE numbering system for motor oil was as follows:



SAE Viscosity Grade
Flow Test time (seconds)
in Apparatus

Viscosity in centipoise @ 100°C
10
under 14
4.00 ( 2 - 5)
20
15 to 24
7.45 ( 6 - 8)
30
25 to 34
10.90 ( 9 - 12)
40
35 to 44
14.40 (13 - 16)
50
over 45
19.10 (17 - 21)
The last column is not part of the SAE J300 Viscosity Standard, but rather shows the average viscosity values (and the range) of oils that were typically sold within the specific SAE Grade.
The SAE Viscosity Numbers only indicated the oil’s ability to flow at the test temperature of 100°C;
The SAE Viscosity Number did not in any way imply suitability for any purpose or quality
or performance of the oil that carried such identification;
The test was also performed ONLY on FRESH oil, so no durability or stability was ever implied;
During the early days of motoring, motor oils were pure petroleum oil produced with little to no enhancement during processing, nor did motor oils contain any additives. Therefore eventually oil marketers started to label all petroleum oils in the market place with the SAE Viscosity Numbering system numbers, so that consumers could quickly identify what viscosity the oil was when "at engine operating temperature".
This early specification was important for simple reason, oils sourced from different oil fields and different regions had vastly different viscosity index (which at that time was not yet well defined, although recognized by oil people).
Viscosity Index (VI) is nonscientific arbitrary value that simply represents the slope of inverse relationship of oil viscosity to temperature.
All petroleum will flow slowly at room temperature, and much faster when heated up.
therefore as the temperature is increased viscosity is decreased;
This is known mathematically as inverse relationship, I.e. if one value goes up (temperature),
then the other goes down (viscosity);
Some oils although they were thick at room temperature would flow as easily as water when hot, yet others that were not as thick at room temperature would not thin out as much. This means that two oils that appeared to have an identical viscosity at room temperature (which was usually the temperature at which the motorist would purchase or pour the oil into the engine), could have totally different viscosity when heated up.
The early automotive engineers even then recognized the viscosity, as very important quality;
And above all the viscosity when at operating temperature ("hot") was universally agreed
to be far more important quality than viscosity at ambient temperature;
This was especially important since one oil sourced from Gulf Coast, could be thick
when cold, yet unable to protect the engine adequately when hot;
By contrast another oil from Pennsylvania, a lot easier to pour when ambient,
could be just right for automotive engine when hot;
The example of the thick when cold and really thin when hot, was oil with low viscosity index:
VI of 0 – the thick black Gulf Coast aromatic crude would behave like this.
The second example of the not so thick when cold and not as thin when hot, would be the oil with high viscosity index.
VI of 100 (then thought to be the best possible) – the amber oil which came from the oil fields of Pennsylvania and consisting of the paraffin crude that made Pennzoil and Quaker State world famous.
Although viscosity index was eventually defined by API, it was not of concern to SAE
and still today is not part of any SAE specification.
The actual viscosity at each extreme of engine operation is what automotive engineers agree on as most important specification-- it is this premise that led to the development of multigrade oils.
Over the 70 years that the SAE J300 Standard has existed, a number of shortcomings were discovered and the standard has been amended numerous times.
Although its evolution is of interest, the discussion of its exact detailed history is far beyond the scope of this article, here is in brief what has happened over the 70 years.
SAE 60 grade was added as the need for thicker oil in aviation and heavy duty engines became apparent.
SAE W grades were added in 1952 as it became apparent that engines could not be started in colder climatic conditions with some SAE 30 oils. The W (Winter) performance was originally defined as viscosity at 0°F or -11.8°C.
SAE 5W and later SAE 0W grades were added as thinner economy oils needed to be defined.
Additional test specifications for winter performance were added to W requirements as engines failed mechanically in cold climates immediately after initial startup, due to oil starvation.
SAE 15W and SAE 25W grades were added to further narrow the performance definitions in winter climates.
In 1970's minimum high temperature high shear specifications were added for performance at 150° C, when it became obvious that engines suffered from excessive wear or even seized at high speed high temperature operation such as long distance interstate driving or towing in hot summer climates.
So the changes to SAE J300 Standard were usually (until very recently) a reaction to fix an existing problem with lubricants that caused engine problems in service. This was generally due either to viscosity breakdown when hot or failure to flow when cold; in either case resulting in catastrophic engine failures.
The last few SAE J300 Standard changes were proactive. They were legislated jointly by the auto and engine manufacturers, as well as the lubricating oil producers, before problems in the field occurred, based on research tests in the laboratories--and therefore done in anticipation of problems.
Many of these specification changes were necessary because today’s cars equipped with electronic fuel injection and electronic ignition will start immediately at much lower temperatures, than vehicles made just a decade ago. Also, because of the proliferation of smaller engines with lower engine oil capacities that produce much more power that put oil under much greater mechanical as well as thermal stress.
The current SAE J300 Engine Oil Viscosity Classification Standard is tabulated below:
Revised DEC 1999 (yes, this is the current standard as of 4-21-2011)


SAE Viscosity Grade
Cold Cranking
Maximum Viscosity
@ Specified Temp Cold Pumping
Maximum Viscosity
@ Specified Temp Hot Viscosity
@ 100°C
Kinematic(cP) Hot/High Shear
@ 150°C
Minimum (cP)
0W
6,200 @ -35°C
60,000 @ -40°C > 3.8
5W
6,600 @ -30°C
60,000 @ -35°C > 3.8
10W
7,000 @ -25°C
60,000 @ -30°C > 4.1
15W
7,000 @ -20°C
60,000 @ -25°C > 5.6
20W
9,500 @ -15°C
60,000 @ -20°C > 5.6
25W
13,000 @ -10°C
60,000 @ -15°C > 9.3
20
> 5.6 < 9.3
2.6
30
> 9.3 < 12.5
2.9
40
>12.5 < 16.3
2.9
40
>12.5 < 16.3
3.7
50
>16.3 < 21.9
3.7
60
>21.9 < 26.1
3.7
Based on our experience 99.8% of motorists have absolutely no idea what the SAE numbers on motor oil labels really mean. They assume that the simple recommendations in their vehicle owner’s manual are cast in concrete, and that the SAE viscosity of recommended motor oil can not be changed under any circumstances.
The fact that it is quite appropriate to either increase or decrease the manufacturer's recommended
motor oil viscosity, if it is appropriate for your particular operating conditions and desired engine life.
Here are some real time, as well as laboratory tested, ultimate and unchangeable truths:
The ideal oil viscosity for motor oil used in conventional piston engine operating at the "normal" engine operating temperature is equivalent to SAE 30. (In range of 9 cP to 12 cP @ 100°C);
If you use thinner oil (SAE 20 or less), under normal operating conditions there will be less resistance to motion due to the lower viscosity, resulting in better fuel economy. However, this gain in fuel economy does not occur without costs:
Increase in oil consumption due to lower viscosity (can be offset by better seals);
Increase in oil consumption due to higher volatility (can be offset by using synthetic oil);
Decrease in engine service life due to increased boundary wear under some operating conditions
(this will cost more per mile driven or per engine operating hour);
If you use thicker oil (SAE 40 or greater) under normal operating conditions there will be more resistance to motion due to the higher viscosity, and therefore worsened fuel economy. This loss in fuel economy is somewhat compensated for by:
Decrease in oil consumption due to higher viscosity;
Decrease in oil consumption due to lower volatility;
Increase in engine service life due to reduced boundary wear and better separation of parts in relative motion;
If the ambient or operating temperature is increased from the ideal or normal (70°F/212°F) then the oil viscosity must be increased to assure same level of protection and lubricating oil film integrity;

It is not just better, but a must to use SAE 40 oil at 100°F ambient and SAE 50 at 120°F ambient.
If the load is increased such as when towing, the oil viscosity must also be increased to assure the same level of protection. (use SAE 50 when towing);
If the engine speed is increased such as during long distance high speed driving in low ambient temperatures (so that the bulk oil temperature is not increased) the oil viscosity could be decreased--that is SAE 20 is preferred to SAE 30 oil (this however works only for manual transmission vehicles where vehicle speed and engine speed are proportional and higher RPM can be maintained by more frequent downshifts if necessary);
If the load is decreased then the oil viscosity can be decreased
(when an empty tractor/semi-trailer is driven at 70 MPH on Interstate, it is OK to use SAE 30 instead of the SAE 40 that is specified and appropriate when the Tractor is hauling a maximum load at 55 MPH);
The most important factor related to long-term engine durability and component wear seems to be
the High-Temperature / High-Shear-Rate specification shown in the last column of the SAE J300 Standard;

For SAE 20 oil it is 2.6cP minimum;
For SAE 30 oil it is 2.9cP minimum;
For SAE 40 oil there are two specifications 2.9 cP the same as SAE 30,
and 3.7 cP the same as both SAE 50 and SAE 60 (but why?)

Well the first specification is for light-duty engines (cars that are not expected to last beyond 70,000 to 150,000 miles) and the second for heavy duty engines (that is engines which are expected to last up to 1,000,000 miles). That is why oils which are labeled as HD (Heavy-Duty) must satisfy the second SAE 40 specification of 3.7 cP.
[ed] The lower viscosity number for multigrade motor oils may be changed (increased generally) depending
on the lowest ambient temperatures at which you will start the engine. For most of the US and Canada 5W or 10W oils are fine,
however for warmer sections of the country 10W (or even 20W) may provide less wear at startup.

OK the final scoop on SAE 5W-20 and SAE 0W-20 oils:
For many years in the USA automotive manufacturers and importers have been subject to CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) standards that were passed by US Congress during fuel shortages of the 70's and fear of America running our of gasoline in just a few decades ([ed] which BTW, didn't happen). When enacted these laws forced US auto manufacturers to attempt to match the fuel economy of then popular Japanese Imports.
Car manufacturers get a hefty Federal fines for not meeting the CAFE MPG standards, for every 0.1 MPG by which they fail multiplied by the number of vehicles they sell. That is $5.50 per each 0.1 MPG by which the standard is missed multiplied by the number of vehicles sold in previous model year--which runs annually into millions of dollars.
Success in the car industry is measured ONLY by how many vehicles have been sold in last 10 days.
Therefore every 0.1 MPG by which you can raise fuel economy does matter, and manufacturers are quite willing to sacrifice engine durability. After all, the sooner you wear out your new car, the sooner you will buy another and that is positive impact on the 10 day sales statistics.
You will definitely get better mileage using SAE 5W-20 rather than SAE 5W-30 oil but not by much, optimistic estimates are less than 1%. The bad news is the about 30% reduction in engine life (from 100,000 miles or 10 years to 70,000 miles or 7 years) caused by the thinner oil.
Only manufacturers who have 3 years or 36,000 miles power train warranties currently recommend SAE 5W-20 oil to be used in their 2000 through 2006 model vehicles.
By contrast Mercedes-Benz that offered 4 years or 50,000 miles warranty not only specified SAE 5W-40 motor oil. And in the USA to assure that only that oil grade was used, provided periodic maintenance free to all its customers (free maintenance was offered by Mercedes-Benz from 2000 model years through 2004 model year, it was cancelled on 2005 model cars and SUV's)
All heavy-duty engine manufacturers recommend SAE 40, SAE 15W-40 or SAE 5W-40 oil.
The final choice is yours, you can get 1% better mileage or 30% longer engine life.
If you are leasing a vehicle, then the better mileage parameter is definitely more important as well as cost effective. You just do not care how long will engine last on a car that you will only operate for 24,000 to 36,000 miles. But how many gallons of fuel you will burn will make a difference.

Summary:
SAE 5W-20
motor oil is great–it yields better EPA numbers than SAE 5W-30 oil = better CAFE compliance = lower Federal Fines for not meeting minimal CAFE standards. It typically save the manufacturer about $15.00 per vehicle in CAFE fines; SAE 5W-20
motor oil increases oil consumption–more oil gets used, which is great for oil companies everywhere; SAE 5W-20
motor oil increases mechanical wear, reducing engine life–that way you will buy new car sooner; Posted by CliffyK at 8:31 AM
Edited on: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 9:38 PM


There's a lot of "facts" in there, but not a lot of knowledge.
 
I think the best summary on the thin oil game is given at the end of the Machinery and Lube article:

The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: skyship
I think the best summary on the thin oil game is given at the end of the Machinery and Lube article:

The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.

Haven't you posted this 6 times already.
Don't you get it bud. No one is listening. Please,show me these engines that had shortened lives using the oil specified by the manufacturer.
You can copy and paste all you want. It proves you can use a computer,it doesn't prove an engine lasts longer.
That quote is more of a plug for thin oil than thick ones in the North American market considering climate,driving the posted speed limits and fuel consumption increases.
Now if we were driving on a super speedway then yes perhaps a thicker oil will work better but since you have NO EXPERIENCE WHATSOEVER what happens in North America then again your opinion carries no weight.
Save the novels bud,no ones listening.
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan
This entire argument is a joke. My snow blower from the 1970's has a sticker on the side next to the oil filler recommending the use of 5w20 motor oil. I bet CAFE had everything to do with that back in the late 1970's and it was to lower emissions, right? It wasn't that the engineers knew the benefits of having a thinner oil for cold starting and start-up wear. Or maybe they wanted the motors to fail? Funny, it still runs excellent after all these years.
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Given that it's a SNOW blower the recommendation makes a whole lot of sense, and obviously has nothing to do with CAFE, and wanting motors to fail.

The recommendation suits the application...
 
Wrong again.
Shorter oil change intervals in this country are recommended by the manufacturers.
For example, both of our older Accords have recommended OCIs of 7.5K or one year, while our newer Subaru has a recommended OCI of 7.5K or 7.5 months.
Our '97 Ford had a recommended OCI of 5K or six months.
My new Accord has its recommended OCIs determined by the MM, and that looks to be 8-9K, with a change after one year regardless of miles, still much shorter than what's recommended in Europe.
If thicker oils and longer OCIs were really better for the engine, you'd see Japanese and North American makers recommending this, since maintenance costs would decline to about nothing and fuel economy doesn't chnage enough that you'd notice.
Since neither thicker oils nor longer change intervals are desirable, they don't.
That CAFE determines oil grade recommendations is a fable without any documented support.
Also, air filters improve in efficiency with use, while oil filters don't.
 
This is another good summary from Synlube:

CONCLUSION
When to use SAE 5W-20 (or SAE 0W-20) Motor Oil ?
When "fuel economy" is paramount in importance
If you are LEASING the vehicle for NOT LONGER than the OEM Engine Warranty
If you are not planning to keep the vehicle past the OEM Engine Warranty

When NOT to use SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil
If your vehicle has "High Performance" or "Heavy-Duty" Engine
If you live in very HOT Climate, where you do not encounter below freezing temperatures
If you plan to tow anything with your vehicle
If you plan to keep you vehicle longer than the OEM Engine Warranty duration
If you subject your vehicle to "high-loads", like frequent "up-hill" travel
If minimal Engine wear is more important to you than "fuel economy"
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Wrong again.
Shorter oil change intervals in this country are recommended by the manufacturers.
For example, both of our older Accords have recommended OCIs of 7.5K or one year, while our newer Subaru has a recommended OCI of 7.5K or 7.5 months.
Our '97 Ford had a recommended OCI of 5K or six months.
My new Accord has its recommended OCIs determined by the MM, and that looks to be 8-9K, with a change after one year regardless of miles, still much shorter than what's recommended in Europe.
If thicker oils and longer OCIs were really better for the engine, you'd see Japanese and North American makers recommending this, since maintenance costs would decline to about nothing and fuel economy doesn't chnage enough that you'd notice.
Since neither thicker oils nor longer change intervals are desirable, they don't.
That CAFE determines oil grade recommendations is a fable without any documented support.
Also, air filters improve in efficiency with use, while oil filters don't.


Some big misunderstandings in basic engineering terms, because both air filters and oil filters improve with age and I think you are the only person so far that thinks the CAFE regs have nothing to do with oil grades in the US, when they are the entire driving force behind them due to the big bucks involved. The shorter OCI's in the US are mostly related to the use of cheaper or thinner oils.
 
skyship, you claimed that filter efficiency through long oci's are an important determinant of wear.

Please provide some facts to prove this.

Please explain why Toyota have OEM filters with only 50% efficiency yet in the US, land of cheap dino oil and short oci's, they have incredible reliability with the lowest spec oil and these least efficient filters.

You keep on providing theory with no quantification. And when the real world quantification, be it Toyotas with the lowest oil and filter specs or Fords running for hundreds of thousands of miles on cheap 20 weight dino is presented to you, you just go into parrot mode.

Put up or shut up.
 
You may have some big misunderstandings in basic engineering terms.
Documenting some of what you write might add some credibility to what you post.
Incidentally, back in the 'fifties, 20W-20 was the winter standard oil for cars in the US, so thinner oils are nothing new in this country.
No CAFE back then.
No CAFE when 10W-30 was the standard oil for almost every engine either.
You need to adjust to the idea that thinner oils on 8-10K change intervals may be optimal, which is why they're recommended here, in the land of cheap motor oil and long lived vehicles.
We drive a lot more here than you do there and we put more miles on our vehicles before they're scrapped.
Kind of turns that thick oil and long OCI thing around, doesn't it?
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You may have some big misunderstandings in basic engineering terms.
Documenting some of what you write might add some credibility to what you post.
Incidentally, back in the 'fifties, 20W-20 was the winter standard oil for cars in the US, so thinner oils are nothing new in this country.
No CAFE back then.
No CAFE when 10W-30 was the standard oil for almost every engine either.
You need to adjust to the idea that thinner oils on 8-10K change intervals may be optimal, which is why they're recommended here, in the land of cheap motor oil and long lived vehicles.
We drive a lot more here than you do there and we put more miles on our vehicles before they're scrapped.
Kind of turns that thick oil and long OCI thing around, doesn't it?


Well put. Here on this continent the spec and oil grades suggested work,as proven by the high mile vehicles still running daily. A 20000km oil change interval isn't mandated by our government,fuel economy is. Our engines aren't dissolving so sunkships entire argument is flawed. His copy and paste crusade is a joke,as are his posts. And I'm seeing more and more members posting referring to sunkship and his comments.
The only thing I've seen of anything that he's posted that is factual or accurate is the names of the oil companies. The rest is a joke.
I'm sticking to the theory is he is the guy who drives the truck that picks up the used oil,or he delivers parts to local auto shops.
He's posted so many inconsistent things from occupation to flushes and lawsuits. Heck he even posted that he wasn't aware of when to tells quit using moly as an add when they have never used any.
Just one example of many where he proves he doesn't know what he's talking about.
Then the post about major brands not using moly yet most all of them do,then he edited to say the majors best offerings don't use moly which again is wrong,then the post about Mobil using less moly but he is clueless to the fact that they are now using the tri-nuclear type which only needs a fraction to achieve the same results of the previous type.
When a person tries to proclaim themselves or imply they are an expert but every post proves otherwise their credibility goes in the toilet,and their comments and opinion go with it,circling the bowl.
Try another oil site sunkship. Maybe you've now learned enough to fool a new group,because this one has you on ignore.
 
Hi. I`m a moderator at AllFordMustang.com where this link was referenced. The original thread was started over here in 2010--->http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-mustang-talk/379969-5w20-vs-5w30-debate-rages.html?highlight=5w20+vs+5w30

FWIW, members of our forum respect the knowledge & good information of the folks on BITOG
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
How many times a day are we going to have this argument?

18.gif


Most likely until someone becomes the clear winner, which will never happen because this is not a win or lose argument there will never be enough difference between the two to declare a winner. Wars have began over less. It is entertaining though and sometimes some factual evidence is brought to light, although rarely.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
This is another good summary from Synlube:

CONCLUSION
When to use SAE 5W-20 (or SAE 0W-20) Motor Oil ?
When "fuel economy" is paramount in importance
If you are LEASING the vehicle for NOT LONGER than the OEM Engine Warranty
If you are not planning to keep the vehicle past the OEM Engine Warranty

When NOT to use SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil
If your vehicle has "High Performance" or "Heavy-Duty" Engine
If you live in very HOT Climate, where you do not encounter below freezing temperatures
If you plan to tow anything with your vehicle
If you plan to keep you vehicle longer than the OEM Engine Warranty duration
If you subject your vehicle to "high-loads", like frequent "up-hill" travel
If minimal Engine wear is more important to you than "fuel economy"



Why are there so many inappropriately used quotation marks in this list? Oh, because it's all opinion and not fact, and is useless, that's why.
 
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