Which of these 4 Ravenol 5w-30 oils should I choose?

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The car is a last gen Mitsubishi Lancer 1.5L. It has a gasoline engine, but I have converted it to LPG. It is often driven at high revs for long distances. When driving at high revs there is some oil consumption (I now use Ravenol ECS SAE 0W-20). After 5000 - 6000 miles of driving, the oil falls from max to min on the dipstick.

Ravenol suggests all these 4 different oils for the 1.5L Lancer.

Which of them should I prefer, taking into account that the engine is often driven at high revs?
 
I'd buy the DXG variety. It has a Dexos1 certification, the others do not. Definitely not any racing oil. It might not have an additive package your Lancer needs.
 
I dont see why he would need dexos oil,
Ravenol VMP with ACEA C3 and API SN should work just fine aswell.

What does the manual call for spec wise?
 
Definitely not any racing oil. It might not have an additive package your Lancer needs.
It has approvals for road use. It is ACEA certified (A3/B4). And it has the 2nd highest tbn of all 4 at 9.9 mg KOH/g.
Lastly, it has the highest viscosity at 100 °C. Isn't that a plus for better protection, if we are talking about high revs driving?
 
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I dont see why he would need dexos oil,
Ravenol VMP with ACEA C3 and API SN should work just fine aswell.

What does the manual call for spec wise?
Regarding grades anything from 0W-20 to 10W-50, depending on the climate zone...

For 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 and 5W-40 the oils should be ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 or A5/B5 and API SG or higher.

For the rest of the SAE grades also A1/B1 is acceptable.
 
I've used Ravenol FDS 5w-30 with no issues. It meets MB 229.6 specs which is fuel saving and possibly lower SAPS, not sure.
Anyway it was fine in the 2.0 T, UNTIL the price went through the roof!
 
I've used Ravenol FDS 5w-30 with no issues. It meets MB 229.6 specs which is fuel saving and possibly lower SAPS, not sure.
Anyway it was fine in the 2.0 T, UNTIL the price went through the roof!
It's the one with the lowest HTHS and the lowest viscosity at 100 °C of all 4.
I don't know what difference these characteristics would practically make, but aren't theoretically considered a disadvantage if we are talking about tough driving conditions?
 
It's the one with the lowest HTHS and the lowest viscosity at 100 °C of all 4.
I don't know what difference these characteristics would practically make, but aren't theoretically considered a disadvantage if we are talking about tough driving conditions?
Which is why I went to VST 5W-40 here in the heat. I never had a UOA done on it. Was kind of sold on the tungsten at the time, not so much anymore.
 
I would go with the VMP as it meets the low-mid SAPS better, is PAO. If it meets BMW LL-04 and VW 504/507,. its got to be pretty good.
 
I would go with the VMP as it meets the low-mid SAPS better, is PAO. If it meets BMW LL-04 and VW 504/507,. its got to be pretty good.
From what I can see both have very similar viscosities at 100 °C and similar HTHS.

VMP has lower NOACK volatility and a higher Viscosity Index.

RSP has higher concentration of Sulphated Ash, but also higher tbn. What would be the benefit of lower SAPS? The car's manual doesn't require mid or low-SAPS oils, by the way.

Lastly, isn't RSP PAO too?

RAVENOL RSP Racing Super Performance SAE 5W-30 is a modern, PAO (poly-alpha-olefin) based full synthetic multigrade engine oil with USVO® Technology for petrol and diesel engines.
 
If you are driving at high revs for long distances, and burning some oil in the process, then you are putting a load on your exhaust system. Less ash would seem to be desirable.
 
If you are driving at high revs for long distances, and burning some oil in the process, then you are putting a load on your exhaust system. Less ash would seem to be desirable.
For the catalytic converter?

What about the engine's protection? Mid and Low SAPS mean lower concentration of certain additives.
By the way, the RSP has a higher tbn, probably as a counter measure for the higher SAPS.

A plus for the VMP would be the higher NOACK volatility. I don't know though what difference would that practically make to oil consumption.
 
VMP, you dont need any racing oil in your stock 1.5 Mitsu.
Or just get any cheap MB 229.5 :geek:

Edit: RSP seems to be less expensive so that one if you must.
 
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VMP, you dont need any racing oil in your stock 1.5 Mitsu.
Or just get any cheap MB 229.5 :geek:

Edit: RSP seems to be less expensive so that one if you must.
The characterization of RSP as a "racing oil" is something of less importance for me.
I want to choose solely based on the oils' properties.
 
If you converted this engine to LPG that generally means you need a higher viscosity oil 15w40 or even 20w50

An LPG powered engine runs much hotter than a gas powered engine, as LPG needs more air to burn, so any typical 5w30 or 5w40 is just going to evaporate and make you lose oil. The other part is that the engine is going to cool down much slower than a gas or diesel as your engine oil is the only liquid in there. More oxygen so more oxidation and soot in the engine as well. And yeah more lubricating required.

What you want is a high tbn, high dispersant, high detergent, resistant to oxidation, heat resistant and higher viscosity engine oil. An a3b4 or even a CI4+ to CK4 HDEO that has an SN dual rating but at least 40 weight, ideally 15w40 if you’re in a warmer climate. Check out engine oils that are meant for small load trucks (gas or dual rated gas/diesel) in stop and go traffic.
 
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@SureshR

The engine does not burn much oil. I now use 0W-20 and despite driving often at high revs the oil falls from max to min on the dipstick about every 6000 miles / 10000 km.

Furthermore, using oil selectors of some companies, like Total for example, I see that they still suggest low grade oils, even when I select the 1.5L Bifuel (Gasoline / LPG) engine. Total still recommends 0W-20 as first choice for the LPG Lancer engine.

I personally want to move to 5W-30. Winters in Greece are cold, so I wouldn't choose a 15W grade oil.
 
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