My method worked after replacing the hose, and clamp, and a smear of sealer. How much time would you waste an solving a simple problem ?.,,
Radiator hose connection leaking
- Thread starter tookien
- Start date
I think the idea is:
If you have an old one and you go crazy on it with some vice grips it may not provide the same tension as new when its released.
Yeah I get that, but on this type of clamp you can only open it so far until the tangs contact. On most all of them I have installed you have to fully open them to get it over the bulge in the hose before seating it on the smaller flange area. Plus the fact that many new ones come clipped fully open from the factory. I just didn't see how you could open one more than that.
They cannot be expanded too far, but rather, folks use the wrong tool to expand them; the sections do not remain parallel. As a result, the clamp will often twist during the expansion process and bad things can happen.
I suppose if there is no bridge over the two outside sections. The clamp pictured before is what I was thinking of:
I could not find the original type of clamp in NAPA or determine the right size, pressure etc... from various ones sold online.
It's not available on Rockauto either.
Instead, I bought two types of clamps for the size that I'm going to try.
and
These are heavy duty clamps, also wider than the worm clamps.
If it still leaks after this, then I am going to suppose there is something wrong with the radiator or pipe connection.
It's not available on Rockauto either.
Instead, I bought two types of clamps for the size that I'm going to try.
and
These are heavy duty clamps, also wider than the worm clamps.
If it still leaks after this, then I am going to suppose there is something wrong with the radiator or pipe connection.
If you look at the picture, when that clamp gets opened up so far that tang on the left goes through the window on the right, the clamp will lock open. In order to unlock the clamp from its locked open position, you have to expand the clamp even further; it's at that point when the clamp has been expanded too far and its tension will be weakened.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2023
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5 minutes to replace the clamp with the hose and coolant still in place, like I described earlier. And I already have the clamps, so it'd be free, and no time wasted going to the parts store.
OK, I replaced the clamp with the one below and now after car is running for a while, it's solid, no leaks.
The clamp is perfectly seated past the front 'round' edge of the pipe and before the end and compresses the hose front to back as it's a bit wider than the stock one.
I'll do a final drive test today and see if everything is good.
Looks like the clamp was the issue.
The old one 'looked' good, or so I supposed.
The clamp is perfectly seated past the front 'round' edge of the pipe and before the end and compresses the hose front to back as it's a bit wider than the stock one.
I'll do a final drive test today and see if everything is good.
Looks like the clamp was the issue.
The old one 'looked' good, or so I supposed.
Old skool is double hose clamp 180* opposed.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2023
- Messages
- 350
Good deal. I like being right sometimes! Haha
Glad it was something simple, nothing better than an easy fix. Motor on, hopefully for another 100k miles!
The thing is you have no idea that that’s actually true. You imagine that it’s true, but you don’t know that.
It’s a pretty bad design if it’s true.
It’s hard to match up the right diameter and order the “ factory style” clamps ahead of time. Get the diameter wrong and it will leak.
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