Radiator hose connection leaking

With adjustable pliers. Not with any special tool.

I don't really have a problem removing and installing those pinch clamp with those.

Do you think the pinch clamp could be worn?
Does the clamp look anything like this?

Mubea Clamp.jpeg
 
I would get a constant tension hose from Napa and coat the hose fitting (not the hose) with a film of either Hylomar if you can find it or Permatex PermaShield which is available at auto parts stores. Is the hose a tight fit on the radiator, if its a Gates hose it may have a known defect in it, they are known to delaminate even new and unused.


This is an example of the clamp, take your old one to Napa to make sure you get the right size.

 
If it's the original radiator it's right at the age where it's going to either crack or start leaking from the joint between the plastic tank and the metal core.

@eljefino has an excellent point that the hose should take some effort to push on without the clamp. If it just drops over the fitting it's the wrong size.
 
yes that's the one
Those are a constant tension hose clamps. They can lose their tension over time especially if they've been expanded out too far. The way they work is they expand and contract depending on what the hose is doing. Rubber hoses will shrink when they get cold and the clamp will shrink with it. You can replace it with a worn clamp but worm clamps need to be monitored all the time because they are not constant tension.
 
Those are a constant tension hose clamps. They can lose their tension over time especially if they've been expanded out too far. The way they work is they expand and contract depending on what the hose is doing. Rubber hoses will shrink when they get cold and the clamp will shrink with it. You can replace it with a worn clamp but worm clamps need to be monitored all the time because they are not constant tension.

I suspect that you are right.

I will need to get a new clamp.


I highly doubt this even makes sense as the thermostat opens and cuts off coolant circulation, but I was wondering whether a blockage (somewhere at the thermostat housing area) could somehow increase the pressure in that area?
 
I'm about to go crazy.
It's the clamp, man. Just put a new clamp on it and quit overthinking it. You should, as a habit, almost always pair new hoses with new clamps, unless the car is only a year or two old. A worm-drive (aka a few) type clamp will work fine. Been using them for almost 30 years and never once have they given me any issues with coming loose or anything bizarre that people here seem concerned with. Make your life easy, though, and use a nut driver or a 1/4" ratchet instead of a screwdriver to tighten. Much less headache than a flathead. Just tighten them to tight and stop, you don't have to crank down on them.
 
It's the clamp, man. Just put a new clamp on it and quit overthinking it. You should, as a habit, almost always pair new hoses with new clamps, unless the car is only a year or two old. A worm-drive (aka a few) type clamp will work fine. Been using them for almost 30 years and never once have they given me any issues with coming loose or anything bizarre that people here seem concerned with. Make your life easy, though, and use a nut driver or a 1/4" ratchet instead of a screwdriver to tighten. Much less headache than a flathead. Just tighten them to tight and stop, you don't have to crank down on them.


I hear you.
The problem is if it leaks again, it's going to create another mess.
Draining coolant. Buying more coolant. Round and round we go.
 
I hear you.
The problem is if it leaks again, it's going to create another mess.
Draining coolant. Buying more coolant. Round and round we go.
Technically, you can unscrew a screw clamp all the way, open it up, and fit it around the hose without disconnecting the hose, then reassemble the clamp and tighten it down in the proper place on the neck/hose junction. Just move the spring clamp out of the way, and be careful not to kink the band on the screw clamp. No hose disconnect, no coolant loss or mess, and you'll know pretty quickly if it was the issue or not.
 
Technically, you can unscrew a screw clamp all the way, open it up, and fit it around the hose without disconnecting the hose, then reassemble the clamp and tighten it down in the proper place on the neck/hose junction. Just move the spring clamp out of the way, and be careful not to kink the band on the screw clamp. No hose disconnect, no coolant loss or mess, and you'll know pretty quickly if it was the issue or not.

I have a new worm drive clamp I picked up at the plumbing supply. Closest size I could find.

But I'm going to give NAPA a call to see if they have a 1.5 inch constant tension clamp, if they have it I'll give that a try first.
 
Totally different situation from your motorcycle, though. It's worth the effort to try a new clamp (correct method) than slapping some goop on it and hoping it works. Lol
 
Those are a constant tension hose clamps. They can lose their tension over time especially if they've been expanded out too far. The way they work is they expand and contract depending on what the hose is doing. Rubber hoses will shrink when they get cold and the clamp will shrink with it. You can replace it with a worn clamp but worm clamps need to be monitored all the time because they are not constant tension.
How do you expand this type of clamp out too far?
 
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