Preventing Battery Terminal Corrosion
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Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
In the battery section of Wal-Mart I found a kit with the positive terminal red spray coating and the felt pads. Has been working great since December on a RX300.
I returning my core and picking up a couple other things at Wally World tomorrow ... so will check that out.
In the battery section of Wal-Mart I found a kit with the positive terminal red spray coating and the felt pads. Has been working great since December on a RX300.
I returning my core and picking up a couple other things at Wally World tomorrow ... so will check that out.
+1 on those little kits with spray and felt washers. Some of the kits also contain a little can of battery terminal cleaner. I have seen the kits for as low as $1.00 as it was discontinued.
If have had places install batteries for me and I brought them the felt washers to use.
The red spray ends up being a waxy gooey stuff. I was thinking next time I would make up a little spray mask so I do not get it all over the place, but in the end I probably won't its a Jeep and can take a little extra red spray on the batter case.
If have had places install batteries for me and I brought them the felt washers to use.
The red spray ends up being a waxy gooey stuff. I was thinking next time I would make up a little spray mask so I do not get it all over the place, but in the end I probably won't its a Jeep and can take a little extra red spray on the batter case.
I think thats the point. It seals the sprayed areas. I just use a piece a of cardboard so I dont get it on the fender.
On top post i just place a old copper penny next to the post.It stays put and attracts the corrosion,i change it every OCI.
Clean the terminal outside, and the cable clamp inside.
Nice and shiny.
Don't take off more metal than necessary!
AFTER assembly, spray a few light coats of Rustoleum.
They should then look like new and be sealed for years.
Grease types are common, but are not as good in practice.
Grease is better than nothing.
Nice and shiny.
Don't take off more metal than necessary!
AFTER assembly, spray a few light coats of Rustoleum.
They should then look like new and be sealed for years.
Grease types are common, but are not as good in practice.
Grease is better than nothing.
I've seen a couple batteries with those "donuts" on them, and they still had corrosion....
Though I don't know if the owner just put the donut carelessly on the post for "preventative" without actually "cleaning" the post up first......but yea, it could be a possibility.
I know WM does a NoCorrosion treatment for 2$ and it works great, I never seen it done, but I'm guessing it's similar to what Ursae mentioned....I wouldn't doubt if they grab the product off their shelf and just do the labor for you
Though I don't know if the owner just put the donut carelessly on the post for "preventative" without actually "cleaning" the post up first......but yea, it could be a possibility.
I know WM does a NoCorrosion treatment for 2$ and it works great, I never seen it done, but I'm guessing it's similar to what Ursae mentioned....I wouldn't doubt if they grab the product off their shelf and just do the labor for you
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
...................Then coat the post with dielectric grease, put on and tighten the clamp, cover the clamp with dielectric grease as well...........
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
...................Then coat the post with dielectric grease, put on and tighten the clamp, cover the clamp with dielectric grease as well...........
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
I first learned of treated felt washers around 1986 and figured they were snake oil until someone I trusted said they really worked. I've been using them ever since, and have never seen more than a trace of corrosion form within ~3 years. This has been on top-post batteries- I never owned anything with side terminals since using the washers. There are several sprays that work pretty well too.
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
It gets squeezed out from between the mating surfaces as you tighten the clamp.
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
It gets squeezed out from between the mating surfaces as you tighten the clamp.
Originally Posted By: Ike_Clanton
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
The side post never corrode unless the post is leaking. that's why GM put them on the side.
Bzzzzzzzt. Fail.
Lol that was funny.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
The side post never corrode unless the post is leaking. that's why GM put them on the side.
Bzzzzzzzt. Fail.
Lol that was funny.
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
It gets squeezed out from between the mating surfaces as you tighten the clamp.
I also use dielectrical lube on battery posts. Haven't had any bad issues. I use d-lube on connectors any time I replace a sensor or disconnect any male/female connectors for any reason. Sometimes you just have to disconnect things and move 'em out of the way to do other things. D-lube goes on B/4 reconnecting. Great moisture barrier too!
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
It gets squeezed out from between the mating surfaces as you tighten the clamp.
I also use dielectrical lube on battery posts. Haven't had any bad issues. I use d-lube on connectors any time I replace a sensor or disconnect any male/female connectors for any reason. Sometimes you just have to disconnect things and move 'em out of the way to do other things. D-lube goes on B/4 reconnecting. Great moisture barrier too!
Petroleum jelly a.k.a Vaseline, works like a charm.
^ yea and felt washes is a win for me.
BTW transmission fluid is not a good preventer. Lets just say after a couple days it wouldn't start. Sprayed it down with PB Blaster and a few hours started right up. Not sure what I was thinking with that one.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Petroleum jelly a.k.a Vaseline, works like a charm.
I know lots of folks that use PetoJelly with good succuss. I prefer the D-Lube
Petroleum jelly a.k.a Vaseline, works like a charm.
I know lots of folks that use PetoJelly with good succuss. I prefer the D-Lube
If there's no corrosion, I simply remove the leads and give the terminals a generous coating of petroleum jelly. Cheap, simple, effective.
-Spyder
-Spyder
I've had the best luck with dielectric grease. Heat from the engine compartment doesn't have an effect on it, my E-150 and Aerostar generate a lot of heat under the hood. Just be certain the terminals are clean before applying it.
Although a bit pricey($6/3oz), I like to keep a tube of dielectrical grease around for other things besides coating the top of battery posts/terminals. Just the proper stuff IMHO!
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
It gets squeezed out from between the mating surfaces as you tighten the clamp.
I also use dielectrical lube on battery posts. Haven't had any bad issues. I use d-lube on connectors any time I replace a sensor or disconnect any male/female connectors for any reason. Sometimes you just have to disconnect things and move 'em out of the way to do other things. D-lube goes on B/4 reconnecting. Great moisture barrier too!
Call me crazy, but I think you should use an electrically conducting grease on the mating surface of the battery posts and clamps, and not an insulating (dielectric) grease. The dielectric grease is OK on the outside of the cable clamp, but not on the mating surfaces.
Examples of electrically conducting greases:
http://www.nyelubricants.com/products/elec_conductive.shtml
Note how these conducting greases have a volume resistivity of 30-300 ohm-cm. A dielectric grease, such as the one from Loctite, will have a volume resistivity of 2.6 x 10exp15 ohm-cm !! That is a difference in resistance of at least 8,700,000,000,000!!
http://www.rshughes.com/images/products/docs/AAiCq3EBWBcgExOqWnbNtw.pdf
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Not a good idea to coat the post with it, and then have this insulating layer between the contact surfaces of the clamp and post.
It gets squeezed out from between the mating surfaces as you tighten the clamp.
I also use dielectrical lube on battery posts. Haven't had any bad issues. I use d-lube on connectors any time I replace a sensor or disconnect any male/female connectors for any reason. Sometimes you just have to disconnect things and move 'em out of the way to do other things. D-lube goes on B/4 reconnecting. Great moisture barrier too!
Call me crazy, but I think you should use an electrically conducting grease on the mating surface of the battery posts and clamps, and not an insulating (dielectric) grease. The dielectric grease is OK on the outside of the cable clamp, but not on the mating surfaces.
Examples of electrically conducting greases:
http://www.nyelubricants.com/products/elec_conductive.shtml
Note how these conducting greases have a volume resistivity of 30-300 ohm-cm. A dielectric grease, such as the one from Loctite, will have a volume resistivity of 2.6 x 10exp15 ohm-cm !! That is a difference in resistance of at least 8,700,000,000,000!!
http://www.rshughes.com/images/products/docs/AAiCq3EBWBcgExOqWnbNtw.pdf
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