Prefilling Oil Filters & How many Changes until all old oil is gone

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I thought this video was kind of interesting visual information:

It shows how quickly a dry oil filter, will fill up with oil upon cranking RPM
(Much slower than it would be with running RPM)

How many times it might take filling an engine with fresh engine oil to displace all old oil left in the engine.
(Put differently, what might be left over when you change your oil)

Apologies if this has been posted before, I couldn't find it with a search for various terms. The video is a year old.

 
I've always done it that way, and also let it drain for a good long time while I do other stuff on the car like check tire pressure, top up washer fluid, have my cup of coffee, chat with the neighbour, finish the overall general check etc.
 
The last time I changed oil on the Hybrid Maverick, I was able to climb the ramps without the ICE starting. It was parked after a 35 mile drive the evening before. It was nice working on a cold engine on a warmish day. It drained out just as much as the previous OCI, confirmed by dipstick levels using the same amount of oil to refill. The previous OCI was done after sitting about an hour. Life is too short to be burned. Sorry that I am always the non-conformist. :D
 
I always do it cold. No need to do anything with oil filter gasket than to wet the seal.

The difference is usually around .1 to .2 quarts. That older oil has absolutely no caustic effect on the engine or its lubricity given the additives that are in the new oil.

The quality of the oil filter will have a far greater effect on the life of the engine. I own a dealership and keep nothing long-term because everything I buy and sell is food on the table. But if I did keep a vehicle, I would use a long life filter and change it every 10k (every other oil change).
 
The last time I changed oil on the Hybrid Maverick, I was able to climb the ramps without the ICE starting. It was parked after a 35 mile drive the evening before. It was nice working on a cold engine on a warmish day. It drained out just as much as the previous OCI, confirmed by dipstick levels using the same amount of oil to refill. The previous OCI was done after sitting about an hour. Life is too short to be burned. Sorry that I am always the non-conformist. :D
I do mine stone cold. I’m not convinced that motor oil is getting that much up into suspension hot, and because I’m on bitog, i’m changing the oil way before its gone “bad”. A little left behind is of little worry to me.
 
I change mine hot; and then let it drain overnight. I've taken my own measurements after it quits "draining" and starts dripping. I also send oil samples for lab analysis every time I change oil, which is usually ~12-15K.
I expect no one who watches the video or posts in this thread is going to change anything they do as a result of opinions expressed here.
 
The problem is we let our preconceived notions get in the way of facts. Changing the oil hot of cold will not make any kind of difference in the engines life. I worked fleet and all maintained vehicles engines out lasted the chassis they were put in bar mechanical difficulties caused by low quality parts.
 
I’ve done both hot and cold changes. Usually I get it warm enough to pull on the ramps and that’s as warm as it gets. Especially on the Escape where the filter is right next to the exhaust it’s best to do it cold. I can’t leave it sit for too long as my neighbor lets me use his driveway since mine is gravel so I can’t block him in for too long. I usually put a small amount in the filter and on top around the gasket.
 
I'm not saying hot is better, I too change the filter every second change. Everytime I look at the Filter cartridge in my PentaStar it looks clean and prestine. I'm using the Fram Ultra though and not a standard filter and it's changed well before what Fram puts on the box. Never been an issue.

I like changing the filter less especially on the all plastic quality ChryCo housing. Less chance for breakage from all the extra torquing it on/off.
 
Especially on the Escape where the filter is right next to the exhaust it’s best to do it cold. I can’t leave it sit for too long as my neighbor lets me use his driveway since mine is gravel so I can’t block him in for too long. I usually put a small amount in the filter and on top around the gasket.
What? Ford did something to make oil changes difficult? I can't imagine.

I don't think hot or cold is even a tiny bit as important as "change the oil" at regular intervals is important. I usually change mine "warm".

As for prefilling, I've heard that certain engines it's a no-no, including my Dodge 3.9L Magnum V6. Yet I've always done it, and it burns no oil and has had no oil related failures with more than 150K miles...
 
I usually change mine hot. But that's only because I go to town get the oil and bring it back the day of the change and then I pull it straight up on the ramps and get to work. I don't let it drain too much probably about 5 minutes after it just starts dripping.

When I fill everything back up and go to start it I will pull either spark plugs or injectors to prevent the engine from running until I see the oil light turn off.
 
I thought this video was kind of interesting visual information:
Sometimes I change it cold but when I do I let it sit for hours draining. Usually prefill the filter and change hot though.
I made those videos! :LOL:

Basically, draining oil when the engine is hot will get you the most oil out for the time you want to spend. 1 hr hot drain = extra 100ml vs 8 hrs for the same amount cold on and 05 Toyota 2AZ-FE. Does this matter in the big scheme of things? I don't think so, just an interesting experiment, but if you want to drain you oil overnight, go for it.

I like to change my oil when it's hot but not dangerous to the touch. Someone mentioned a while back hot synthetic oil is very carcinogenic IIRC and some chemicals get into your pores.
 
I usually change mine hot. But that's only because I go to town get the oil and bring it back the day of the change and then I pull it straight up on the ramps and get to work. I don't let it drain too much probably about 5 minutes after it just starts dripping.

When I fill everything back up and go to start it I will pull either spark plugs or injectors to prevent the engine from running until I see the oil light turn off.
Please tell me you just disable the fuel or spark by disconnecting the coils or removing the fuel pump relay, and aren't physically removing the plugs/injectors?

Not wrong to do it that way, per se (phys removal), just seems like it would be a waste of time (and add a chance for leaks/other issues) when a fuse/relay pull is 10 secs and way less effort!
 
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