Opening Bleeder Screw To Retract Caliper Piston

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Opening the bleeder is a good idea.
Old fluid is not jammed back in the system.
You get nice fresh fluid instead when it is topped off.
Of course, technique is the key thing. It is not hard to ensure no air gets in the system. Just like bleeding.
 
I'd pump the brake pedal with the engine off. If it gets hard, then don't bother with anything. If not, bleed the system until it does. OEM is Honda Dot 3 heavy duty.

I've watched my dad change alot of brakes. Never seen him crack a bleeder, but I can understand why you might want to. Most of those cars were non-ABS, so doubt it was an issue then.

I'd do a flush on the brake fluid soon anyway. Honda recommends 3 years, but I'm doing our 09 Accord at the 2 year mark. High humidity here in FL plays a big role in that decision, but I flush brake fluid in any of my vehicles at around 2 years max, regardless of manufacturer.
 
btw, opening a bleeder screw at each pad change and venting fluid is a great way to prevent the "omg the screw is full of rust and its 5 minutes after advance auto parts closed on a sunday" syndrome. and those little rubber caps that people let fall onto the ground?.....
 
I have always opened the bleeder screw. Never had a problem. It just makes sense to me to provide an easy place for the fluid to go as I retract piston. Not sure if I was taught this or just thought it was a good idea at some point.

robert
 
His theory makes sense to me. There's going to be a little bit of rebound that will draw air back in but if the mechanic is patient and lets that bubble gravity bleed back out then no harm done. Also, you're in a much better position to rotate the piston if needed with it in your hand.
 
I always open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston in. This is for all of the reasons mentioned before. I also bleed all new fluid through the system when I do my brakes. I've been doing this for years with no problems.

Wayne
 
My concern is where I see some mechanics pinch off the flexible brake hose to prevent fluid backing up when they open the bleeder.

It seems imprudent to squeeze the brake hose in that manner. Hoses are built tough but it seems pinching them hard with a pair of pliers is a great way to either weaken or damage it. I can't see that technique being a sound step.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic

Does anyone else open the bleeder screw to retract the caliper piston?


No -- that's what the space (above the full line) in the master cylinder is for.
 
Originally Posted By: wtd
I always open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston in. This is for all of the reasons mentioned before. I also bleed all new fluid through the system when I do my brakes. I've been doing this for years with no problems.

Wayne

Good idea, open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston in and flush the brake system when changing brakes pads.
 
Interesting. I either take some fluid out of the MC before compressing the caliper if I think compressing the caliper is going to cause it to over flow. Or on ABS systems I crack the bleeder and let it gravity bleed a few ounces. Then close it up and compress the caliper. Top off the MC and move to the other wheel.
 
It my garage you do it, or pack up your tools and find a job some place else. It is considered "best" practice.
 
Originally Posted By: highmilegeguy
My concern is where I see some mechanics pinch off the flexible brake hose to prevent fluid backing up when they open the bleeder.

It seems imprudent to squeeze the brake hose in that manner. Hoses are built tough but it seems pinching them hard with a pair of pliers is a great way to either weaken or damage it. I can't see that technique being a sound step.


On the brakes I've worked on there was absolutely no need for any pinching. The bleeder is a far less "resistive" path than back through the system and all of the fluid comes out the bleeder when the pads are retracted. Try to retract the pads with the bleeder closed, then compare the effort with it open. The difference is night and day, not subtle.

I'm really surprised at the FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) rampant in this thread about touching the bleeders. If you're that scared of your bleeders, maybe you shouldn't be DIYing your brakes at all. It's not rocket science - they're there to get bubbles OUT, they are MEANT to be opened and not just in a clean room at a dealer. Whether you open them during pad retraction or not is only one factor of the job but you SHOULD be bleeding fluid regularly and especially after working on the brakes.

Stomp the pedal and if it feels fine do nothing? It takes 5 seconds to do a bare minimum functional bleed to eliminate any bubbles which might be in or near the caliper and remove the most mistreated fluid from the system. I don't understand the lengths some people go to in order to avoid this 5 seconds of work to be certain it's done right. The biggest point of caution while bleeding is not to let your brake pedal go far into "new territory" so that you don't damage your master cylinder seal. Throw a brick under the brake pedal and that problem is solved.

Professional techs may or may not do something because they are paid piece work. If it's faster, then that is how they do it. Plus your car is probably up on a lift, not just jackstands, and getting someone into the car to press on the brake pedal one or two times is a big pain. Furthermore they're usually working by themselves. Don't always take what pros do as the best quality course of action for you or your vehicle - they're there to make money and so is the shop they work for. They'd rather have you pay another piece work fee for a full "bleed" or "flush" and then do it at that time.

I'm not saying that they're acting with malice, just that a for-profit service environment won't always do everything "the best". The owner/manager of the shop will have his own "style" and priorities. Some will pull out all the stops and do everything right, others will cut every possible corner to maximize profit.
 
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I have always opened the bleeder screws myself, c-clamp the travel for new pads. Finish off the job with the MityVac till I get fresh fluid I pour in the master cylinder. Repeat all wheels.
Just did new pads & rotors on my son's car last week. Although the rotors were new, I have them turned just enough to ensure they are trued.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: The Critic

Does anyone else open the bleeder screw to retract the caliper piston?


No -- that's what the space (above the full line) in the master cylinder is for.


As long as someone didn't fill that space with fluid.

Then it will come out of the lid.

I open the bleader. JMO, but I don't think it matters much either way.
 
When I replace pads, first I suck the old fluid out of the M/C and refill with fresh DOT 3/4. Then open bleeders one at a time to retract caliper pistons and gravity drain the old fluid from each corner. (keeping the M/C full)

A quart of brake fluid is only a couple of bucks and fresh pads deserve clean, dry fluid IMHO.
 
I do open the bleeders when retracting piston, for the above reasons (cleaning crud, water, contaminants). I have clamped brake line too, using pieces of plastic as softjaws but I won't do this again, as it will crush and damage the lines IMO.

I'd probably be leery of opening the bleeder if living in the rustbelt.
 
I open the bleeders. Since the Calipers are the lowest point in the system much of the contamination will be in them. Opening the bleeders will push it out instead of back into the lines.

Plus you don't want to push fluid backwards through a $3000 ABS unit. Once the piston is pushed back in then you let it drip a few seconds. No other bleeding is necessary.
 
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