OEM filter intervals for some Japanese engines
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dnewton3
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Originally Posted By: brelandt
I put about 4K a month on my truck. I drive about 80% highway and 20% sitting in traffic thru the Bay Area.
I change my oil (Full Synthetic) and filter (Champion Lab) every 3K or about every 3 weeks.
I do work at a shop and get a 50% discount, so the cost is about the same as my daily lunch.....trivial really.
I know I'm wasting the oil but man I just feel way better going about it this way.
I went 4K once and I started losing sleep.
I need help more than my engine does......
I'm doing some math here and, zowie, are you wasting money!
On the plus side, and least you can acknowledge the emotional aspect, and are not trying to "justify" it with sales hype and marketing rhetoric.
But, if you run 1k miles a week, you are a prime candidate for syns with bypass filtration and greatly extended OCIs. 50k miles a year is a LOT of oil down the drain every 3k miles ...
Yes, the oil comes cheap to you. But waste is waste, even if you purchase it cheaper than the rest of us. I presume that 50% discount could just as easily apply to conventional lubes? You would still be saving a proportional amount of money by using dino oils, would you not?
Why not take some of that savings and first run a few UOAs with your current plan.
Then, try some dino oil for the same duration and see how it fares.
Then, consider if you want to do extended OCIs with bypass.
I understand it's your ride and not mine. But it's interesting how different folks are. What makes you sleep well at night would drive me insane with insomnia knowing how much money I was throwing away.
I put about 4K a month on my truck. I drive about 80% highway and 20% sitting in traffic thru the Bay Area.
I change my oil (Full Synthetic) and filter (Champion Lab) every 3K or about every 3 weeks.
I do work at a shop and get a 50% discount, so the cost is about the same as my daily lunch.....trivial really.
I know I'm wasting the oil but man I just feel way better going about it this way.
I went 4K once and I started losing sleep.
I need help more than my engine does......
I'm doing some math here and, zowie, are you wasting money!
On the plus side, and least you can acknowledge the emotional aspect, and are not trying to "justify" it with sales hype and marketing rhetoric.
But, if you run 1k miles a week, you are a prime candidate for syns with bypass filtration and greatly extended OCIs. 50k miles a year is a LOT of oil down the drain every 3k miles ...
Yes, the oil comes cheap to you. But waste is waste, even if you purchase it cheaper than the rest of us. I presume that 50% discount could just as easily apply to conventional lubes? You would still be saving a proportional amount of money by using dino oils, would you not?
Why not take some of that savings and first run a few UOAs with your current plan.
Then, try some dino oil for the same duration and see how it fares.
Then, consider if you want to do extended OCIs with bypass.
I understand it's your ride and not mine. But it's interesting how different folks are. What makes you sleep well at night would drive me insane with insomnia knowing how much money I was throwing away.
I changed oil & filter and couldn't pull myself to change what I had been doing - stuck with GTX and Toy filter.
Vehicle about to hit 170k and for no reason couldn't do the synthetic this time. So sticking with GTX & OEM filter again for about the usual 4k OCI.
While I had things still out since yesterday, might as will do the oldest Harley (97) with Amsoil 20-50 w/OEM filter.
Guess I'm getting older, I get stuck in my old ways sticking what has worked for me. Well that, and I already had the oils & filters in the garage anyway.
Vehicle about to hit 170k and for no reason couldn't do the synthetic this time. So sticking with GTX & OEM filter again for about the usual 4k OCI.
While I had things still out since yesterday, might as will do the oldest Harley (97) with Amsoil 20-50 w/OEM filter.
Guess I'm getting older, I get stuck in my old ways sticking what has worked for me. Well that, and I already had the oils & filters in the garage anyway.
Originally Posted By: rrounds
I run 16k miles on the filter(oversize Baldwin B7042) on my '06 S2000 and that is about 7 months of driving for us. No way in [censored] would I run 2X on the stock filter on my bike. I cut open every filter that comes off my bike, and it has a lot of clutch debris even after 73k miles.
ROD
Are you using a MA2 oil? or something else?
I run 16k miles on the filter(oversize Baldwin B7042) on my '06 S2000 and that is about 7 months of driving for us. No way in [censored] would I run 2X on the stock filter on my bike. I cut open every filter that comes off my bike, and it has a lot of clutch debris even after 73k miles.
ROD
Are you using a MA2 oil? or something else?
Originally Posted By: widman
Originally Posted By: rrounds
I run 16k miles on the filter(oversize Baldwin B7042) on my '06 S2000 and that is about 7 months of driving for us. No way in [censored] would I run 2X on the stock filter on my bike. I cut open every filter that comes off my bike, and it has a lot of clutch debris even after 73k miles.
ROD
Are you using a MA2 oil? or something else?
I use a combination of two Mobil 1 oils in my S2000 and I use Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T6 in my bike.
ROD
Originally Posted By: rrounds
I run 16k miles on the filter(oversize Baldwin B7042) on my '06 S2000 and that is about 7 months of driving for us. No way in [censored] would I run 2X on the stock filter on my bike. I cut open every filter that comes off my bike, and it has a lot of clutch debris even after 73k miles.
ROD
Are you using a MA2 oil? or something else?
I use a combination of two Mobil 1 oils in my S2000 and I use Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T6 in my bike.
ROD
Really interesting thread. Thanks dnewton.
I was toying with the idea of FCI = 2 OCI due to my admittedly irrational concerns about the dry start, as my manual instructs. My thought was to cut the # of dry starts in half.(Let's save that debate for another thread. Yes I prefill filters. Sometimes I even disconnect the ignition coils and let the starter motor turn it over a few times to get oil flowing after an oil change, as I once heard those NPR car talk show hosts suggest).
I've also elected, going forward, to use a less efficient filter on my Honda than I had been (going from a Wix to a Denso. A Denso is true OEM: it came off the production line with a Denso, but we all know it's not what they sell at the dealership).
Now you've got me thinking the less efficient DENSO filter may be BETTER able to go the 2 OCI's, since we all know that efficiency increases as the media catches debris. Maybe the Densos will just be hitting their stride after one OCI...
The more I learn, the more uncertain I am about the best course of action. Maybe I should just stop reading BITOG and having UOA's done, and go back to my old ways of using Royal Purple and Wix/P1 filters for 3,000 mile OCI's.
I was toying with the idea of FCI = 2 OCI due to my admittedly irrational concerns about the dry start, as my manual instructs. My thought was to cut the # of dry starts in half.(Let's save that debate for another thread. Yes I prefill filters. Sometimes I even disconnect the ignition coils and let the starter motor turn it over a few times to get oil flowing after an oil change, as I once heard those NPR car talk show hosts suggest).
I've also elected, going forward, to use a less efficient filter on my Honda than I had been (going from a Wix to a Denso. A Denso is true OEM: it came off the production line with a Denso, but we all know it's not what they sell at the dealership).
Now you've got me thinking the less efficient DENSO filter may be BETTER able to go the 2 OCI's, since we all know that efficiency increases as the media catches debris. Maybe the Densos will just be hitting their stride after one OCI...
The more I learn, the more uncertain I am about the best course of action. Maybe I should just stop reading BITOG and having UOA's done, and go back to my old ways of using Royal Purple and Wix/P1 filters for 3,000 mile OCI's.
Quote:
...... A Denso is true OEM: it came off the production line with a Denso,...
Not that I'm aware of, could you provide a link/source for that information? Afaik, there's a Japanese version of the Filtech that may come as the off the line OEM, but I've never seen any efficiency information published on that filter. Only info on Honda filter efficiency comes from the Amsoil test showing the Fram made A-02 to be ~65%@20um, very poor. Though the A-01 no end cap design may be similar to the Toyota/Denso oem, never seen Denso mentioned as Honda oem.
...... A Denso is true OEM: it came off the production line with a Denso,...
Not that I'm aware of, could you provide a link/source for that information? Afaik, there's a Japanese version of the Filtech that may come as the off the line OEM, but I've never seen any efficiency information published on that filter. Only info on Honda filter efficiency comes from the Amsoil test showing the Fram made A-02 to be ~65%@20um, very poor. Though the A-01 no end cap design may be similar to the Toyota/Denso oem, never seen Denso mentioned as Honda oem.
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Quote:
...... A Denso is true OEM: it came off the production line with a Denso,...
Not that I'm aware of, could you provide a link/source for that information? Afaik, there's a Japanese version of the Filtech that may come as the off the line OEM, but I've never seen any efficiency information published on that filter. Only info on Honda filter efficiency comes from the Amsoil test showing the Fram made A-02 to be ~65%@20um, very poor. Though the A-01 no end cap design may be similar to the Toyota/Denso oem, never seen Denso mentioned as Honda oem.
According to both rockauto and densoaftermarket websites, Denso is the OE manufacturer of the filter for my 2005 Civic. Maybe I'm interpreting that wrong, but that was how I had read it. Please correct me if that's not the case.
In any case, lots of parts on the car were originally manufactured by Denso, and I believe they have a great reputation for quality control. And taking all of dnewton's points into consideration, I think the efficiency may have less of an effect on longevity of the engine than manufacturing/QC standards. I don't know the efficiency rating of the Denso, but I'd wager that it's not 99% at >40 microns, like the specified P1 filter (which I still hold in high regard, and will use my remaining stash of with confidence).
Quote:
...... A Denso is true OEM: it came off the production line with a Denso,...
Not that I'm aware of, could you provide a link/source for that information? Afaik, there's a Japanese version of the Filtech that may come as the off the line OEM, but I've never seen any efficiency information published on that filter. Only info on Honda filter efficiency comes from the Amsoil test showing the Fram made A-02 to be ~65%@20um, very poor. Though the A-01 no end cap design may be similar to the Toyota/Denso oem, never seen Denso mentioned as Honda oem.
According to both rockauto and densoaftermarket websites, Denso is the OE manufacturer of the filter for my 2005 Civic. Maybe I'm interpreting that wrong, but that was how I had read it. Please correct me if that's not the case.
In any case, lots of parts on the car were originally manufactured by Denso, and I believe they have a great reputation for quality control. And taking all of dnewton's points into consideration, I think the efficiency may have less of an effect on longevity of the engine than manufacturing/QC standards. I don't know the efficiency rating of the Denso, but I'd wager that it's not 99% at >40 microns, like the specified P1 filter (which I still hold in high regard, and will use my remaining stash of with confidence).
Maybe there needs to be a 12 step program: Over-changers Anonymous or something
.
ERT
I used to follow the same OC practice you did. What worked for me is extending the interval 1000 miles at a time. Try going 5K next time and do it for 1 year--or less, if you're up to it. After a year you will look back and think--Geez that didn't hurt a bit. Next year go to 6K interval, and so on. IMO, based on the driving conditions you stated, a 7.5K oil and filter change on dino is just about right for you.
You will see how easy it is, and pat yourself on the back for the amount of natural resources you have saved. Remember, there is no prize awarded in the end for having the cleanest engine in the junkyard !
Steve
I used to follow the same OC practice you did. What worked for me is extending the interval 1000 miles at a time. Try going 5K next time and do it for 1 year--or less, if you're up to it. After a year you will look back and think--Geez that didn't hurt a bit. Next year go to 6K interval, and so on. IMO, based on the driving conditions you stated, a 7.5K oil and filter change on dino is just about right for you.
You will see how easy it is, and pat yourself on the back for the amount of natural resources you have saved. Remember, there is no prize awarded in the end for having the cleanest engine in the junkyard !
Steve
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: brelandt
I put about 4K a month on my truck. I drive about 80% highway and 20% sitting in traffic thru the Bay Area.
I change my oil (Full Synthetic) and filter (Champion Lab) every 3K or about every 3 weeks.
I do work at a shop and get a 50% discount, so the cost is about the same as my daily lunch.....trivial really.
I know I'm wasting the oil but man I just feel way better going about it this way.
I went 4K once and I started losing sleep.
I need help more than my engine does......
I'm doing some math here and, zowie, are you wasting money!
On the plus side, and least you can acknowledge the emotional aspect, and are not trying to "justify" it with sales hype and marketing rhetoric.
Associated article on oil change intervals:
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-cha...amp;msite=w#top
Originally Posted By: brelandt
I put about 4K a month on my truck. I drive about 80% highway and 20% sitting in traffic thru the Bay Area.
I change my oil (Full Synthetic) and filter (Champion Lab) every 3K or about every 3 weeks.
I do work at a shop and get a 50% discount, so the cost is about the same as my daily lunch.....trivial really.
I know I'm wasting the oil but man I just feel way better going about it this way.
I went 4K once and I started losing sleep.
I need help more than my engine does......
I'm doing some math here and, zowie, are you wasting money!
On the plus side, and least you can acknowledge the emotional aspect, and are not trying to "justify" it with sales hype and marketing rhetoric.
Associated article on oil change intervals:
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-cha...amp;msite=w#top
Originally Posted By: steve20
ERT
I used to follow the same OC practice you did. What worked for me is extending the interval 1000 miles at a time. Try going 5K next time and do it for 1 year--or less, if you're up to it. After a year you will look back and think--Geez that didn't hurt a bit. Next year go to 6K interval, and so on. IMO, based on the driving conditions you stated, a 7.5K oil and filter change on dino is just about right for you.
You will see how easy it is, and pat yourself on the back for the amount of natural resources you have saved. Remember, there is no prize awarded in the end for having the cleanest engine in the junkyard !
Steve
Thanks - I'm going to push 5k this time then take it from there depending how it goes. I'm sure it will be fine.
ERT
I used to follow the same OC practice you did. What worked for me is extending the interval 1000 miles at a time. Try going 5K next time and do it for 1 year--or less, if you're up to it. After a year you will look back and think--Geez that didn't hurt a bit. Next year go to 6K interval, and so on. IMO, based on the driving conditions you stated, a 7.5K oil and filter change on dino is just about right for you.
You will see how easy it is, and pat yourself on the back for the amount of natural resources you have saved. Remember, there is no prize awarded in the end for having the cleanest engine in the junkyard !
Steve
Thanks - I'm going to push 5k this time then take it from there depending how it goes. I'm sure it will be fine.
very happy to hear that---!!!
stay at 5 until you feel the need to move on
stay at 5 until you feel the need to move on
Originally Posted By: steve20
very happy to hear that---!!!
stay at 5 until you feel the need to move on
Very funny, but also true.
My name is Adam, and I'm a recovering oil-change-aholic. I haven't changed my oil for 8100 miles. ...
very happy to hear that---!!!
stay at 5 until you feel the need to move on
Very funny, but also true.
My name is Adam, and I'm a recovering oil-change-aholic. I haven't changed my oil for 8100 miles. ...
Originally Posted By: oiltard
Very funny, but also true.
My name is Adam, and I'm a recovering oil-change-aholic. I haven't changed my oil for 8100 miles. ...
Hahaha, yep. I've been pushing my cars out from 2.5k miles before BITOG to 5k and more.
Very funny, but also true.
My name is Adam, and I'm a recovering oil-change-aholic. I haven't changed my oil for 8100 miles. ...
Hahaha, yep. I've been pushing my cars out from 2.5k miles before BITOG to 5k and more.
Originally Posted By: oiltard
I was toying with the idea of FCI = 2 OCI due to my admittedly irrational concerns about the dry start, as my manual instructs. My thought was to cut the # of dry starts in half.(Let's save that debate for another thread. Yes I prefill filters. Sometimes I even disconnect the ignition coils and let the starter motor turn it over a few times to get oil flowing after an oil change, as I once heard those NPR car talk show hosts suggest).
Disconnecting the coils and cranking the engine -- aren't you concerned about the fuel you're pouring into your freshly filled crankcase?
I was toying with the idea of FCI = 2 OCI due to my admittedly irrational concerns about the dry start, as my manual instructs. My thought was to cut the # of dry starts in half.(Let's save that debate for another thread. Yes I prefill filters. Sometimes I even disconnect the ignition coils and let the starter motor turn it over a few times to get oil flowing after an oil change, as I once heard those NPR car talk show hosts suggest).
Disconnecting the coils and cranking the engine -- aren't you concerned about the fuel you're pouring into your freshly filled crankcase?
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