New Honda Civic. What synthentic oil + changes?

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Im sensing alot of sarcasm vs decent knowledge. Shall we try for round 2 gentlemen or is everyone here just bitter in their own sour advise?
 
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I agree with Brett and disagree with those that think conventional is the way to go. Under most conditions conventional would be fine, but your type of driving is particularly severe and I think synthetic would be best. The only way to know for sure is to do an oil analysis (my preference is Dyson Analysis, but many folks here use Blackstone) for your first couple of oil changes. One thing to keep in mind is that some things, like sludge or deposits are difficult to measure with an oil analysis, this is where Terry Dyson is very helpful. I think some Hondas are prone to fuel dilution (not sure about yours) and Blackstone may miss this unless the problem is severe.
 
Originally Posted By: Freezebyte
Huh, very weird. All the talk on the civic boards suggest that synthetics are just simply better all around. People state engines running smoother and quieter as a result of synthetic vs conventional, not to mention running cleaner with less sludge and wear. I'm getting alot of confused messages here.

I'm sorry, but I don't feel like doing my own oil. I get payed well, i'll pay to have someone do it for me, honda dealership of course, no Jiffy Lube or the likes.

And yes, the economy gas saving Mobil 1 oil exists, its this.

Mobil 1 Fuel Economy Oil


You may not be aware that there is nothing special about that particular oil regarding mileage. It is the same 0W20 that has been on the shelf for a while with a new "grabber" label. Who says so? Mobil did.
 
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Just run the break in oil to 5k. Take a 5qt jug of pp ($20 at WM) ask them to put it in for you and credit you for the dealer fill. tell them you want if filled to the top line on the dip stick and the balance returned to you. Ask them to show you oil level before you leave the dealer. Make sure they wipe any oil off your return jug and place it in the plastic garbage bag you brought from hope to make sure no oil transfers to your car and you are good to go.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Just run the break in oil to 5k. Take a 5qt jug of pp ($20 at WM) ask them to put it in for you and credit you for the dealer fill. tell them you want if filled to the top line on the dip stick and the balance returned to you. Ask them to show you oil level before you leave the dealer. Make sure they wipe any oil off your return jug and place it in the plastic garbage bag you brought from hope to make sure no oil transfers to your car and you are good to go.


And hope that they *do* put it in the car instead of taking it home.

Seen it happen quite a few times.. Customer brings in their oil and the bulk gun is used. (nothing wrong with the bulk)

Bottom line, you risk more possible problems have anyone else *ANYTIME* other than YOU changing the oil.. (wrong oil, mess up drain pan threads (even at a dealer) over fill, short fill, double gasket for oil filter, no gasket on oil filter (seen all of these happen) and many more things)

They don't take the time that you would. Or care for your car like you would.
 
Just go by the MM.

If you end up doing oil changes at anything less than 5k miles, there will be no substantive advantage to using synthetics. The Group II+ base oils used in modern 5W-20 conventionals are so close to synthetic performance, for anything but very extreme situations (very cold, tracking car, very long oil changes, turbo), there won't be any difference in engine wear and cleanliness. Particularly, with a small 4 cyl normally aspirated engine.
 
I use the MM to an extent. I actually go by time, which works both for the guy who drives a lot of hwy miles as well as the short-tripper, like our friend. So, trust the MM, but use synth is good advice, since it's calculated for modern SL/SM dino oil. Sure oil is better now, but the engines tax it harder too. That's partly why out-speced oil should not be used in a newer car.

I stand by my advice of Mobil 1 0w-20 and 0w-30 because I thought the poster would like it. He seems to be looking for an edge over his peer group, who are into their colored oil. 0w is a techy thing and if the poster sticks around, he can figure out the w-rating system and report back to his Honda forum buddies by winter time. I'm not sure he's with us though, patience is short with this young one.


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nice car.
i own a 07 civic sedan.
Did the first oil change (4178 miles)in the dealer since i had a coupon plus it was cold out side and i still didn't want to put in synthetic. I put synthetic in after winter storage at 4535, M1 5-20.
I am pleased with this oil.
It made my engine run a little easier with less drag.
No noise from valves like some M1 users complain about.
Overall i am pleased with M1 and i will be doing a UOA around 15k miles to see how its doing. My next choice will be PP 5-20.
i change my oil
i will start by doing 4k OCI and then move up to 5k OCI.
The MM is pretty accurate. It showed 30 % oil life left with 4178 miles on my car and 8 months of usage.
oil was still brownish but not as dark as i thought it would be.

i heard you should keep in break in oil for 4-5 k miles.
I did and dont regret it engien runs great and no oil consumption. : )

i am planing to keep the car as long as possible but since you are not i would run Castro gtx 5-20 or Pennzoil 5-20 Both dino.
 
I say it's a waste of money, but it's your car and you have every right to use what you feel comfortable with. Nice car by the way, looks great.
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Love the new Civic design, especially the Si and Mugen Si.
 
I have an '08 Accord EX-L 4 cyl coupe and I'm currently running M1 5w-20. I'm doing that because my maintenance minder is recommending around 10k OCI's. I don't have the guts to do that with dino.

In your situation I'd follow the maintenance minder. I change my own oil but since you don't want to, take your Civic to the dealer when your maintenance minder tells you and have them use the bulk stuff.
 
Freeze, you want to save money you should buy a jack and jackstands cuz the dealer will charge you a lot more to change it for you with the cheapest bulk oil. i'd change it twice a year even if it didn't reach 3K-5K
 
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