Need help with Oil choice

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After reading that, I would definitely change the oil aggressively with a high detergent synthetic as others have suggested. The case will continue to clean and you could probably get another couple hundred thousand out of it.
I live in a salt environment, where the acids outside the crankcase eat faster than those inside. No rust for you. Nice.
Let us know what you do and how it works out.
 
Is there a chart for detergent level in synthetics? The rust is only because it was garaged in NC. My 2000 legacy has rust. Where I live, rust is a huge issue. I've been surprised at how well the Accord has resisted. I do try to wash the wheel wells whenever it gets above 50 degrees in the winter. Oh course, I've done this on the Legacy too and it still has some rust. It's just a salty place.
 
Originally Posted By: clearanceman
Thanks, I think that is one solution, use the honda for a couple of the highway trips each month. Max life is good stuff, I'm not sure it's better than Super Tech, definitely as good.


Between the two, I'd favor Maxlife.
That's just my opinion, of course, but Maxlife is probably Valvoline's premier product, although Synpower SN looks like a real improvement over past formualtions in its performance.
My old BMW did really well with Maxlife Nextgen and I have a really clean UOA posted here to demonstrate it.
We'll see how the engine does on Defy.
I've had positive experiences with Maxlife in the three engines I've used it in, four if you count the clearance 20W-50 I used in a lawnmower for years.
 
you should stick with conventional oil synthetics were introduced for jet engines because of the high heat then produced to work with cars , with additive packages, how ever they do have a higher cleansing content so this may be the problem ,
 
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Originally Posted By: rhondas
you should stick with conventional oil synthetics were introduced for jet engines because of the high heat then produced to work with cars , with additive packages, how ever they do have a higher cleansing content so this may be the problem ,


Thanks, but I don't think too much cleaning is the problem.
 
You're over thinking this. Get some MaxLife in the oil sump and take the car for a drive. Get the oil up to temp and your varnish will start breaking down. Do that for two 3000 mile OCI's and your varnish will be gone.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You're over thinking this. Get some MaxLife in the oil sump and take the car for a drive. Get the oil up to temp and your varnish will start breaking down. Do that for two 3000 mile OCI's and your varnish will be gone.


I went to Walmart because I needed oil. I ended up with one more jug of super tech because:

1. It's for the other car's oil change anyway.
2. Maxlife was out of stock for the weight I needed.
3. Not sure who wins the battle between Synpower and Super Tech synthetic.

I did only buy one jug so I am prepared to switch brands for the next Honda change. Although the super tech full syn has the indication for warren distribution on the bottom, I think it's good oil.
 
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All right, I guess we are done here. I had to drive the accord this week 112 miles round trip and it made me feel better. Part of the way I thought about the valve train I took apart and replaced the rockers and the new cam and how I hoped I got all the valve retainer nuts tight enough after I adjusted the valves. And then I started wondering how those nuts don't fall off in five minutes with all the up and down, up and down and the heat and the oil. And then I started to worry so I listened the radio and tried not to think about it, LOL
 
I know what you mean.
Whenever I do anything major to one of our cars, I always tend to second guess myself.
If you took your time and torqued everything properly, you'll have no problems.
Of course, it's easy for me to say that since it isn't my engine, I didn't do the work and I'm not driving the car.
Just think how much worse you'd feel if your wife were driving this newly repaired car.
 
Well, she does drive the car most of the time although in town and you don't really torque the valve spring retainer nuts or whatever their official name is, it's by feel. And it has been fine. But at 70mph, I can freak myself out just thinking about the vibration and wondering why every bolt on the car isn't loosing up. 99% of the time I never think about it, but every once in awhile...

And actually those nuts just keep the valve adjusters from loosening, they don't actually retain the springs so they really aren't under any stress.
 
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