http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/oil_tech/dyno_results.html
Seems like it is not as much as I would think; 0W20 vs 10W60.
Seems like it is not as much as I would think; 0W20 vs 10W60.
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According to Farner, oils like Quaker State's full synthetics can easily withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees F, and he says that some oval track race teams are experimenting with temperatures as high as 350 degrees F.
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Another reason to perhaps shorten drain intervals for performance engines is that oil is an important component of ring seal. If engine oil is contaminated with water, the water evaporates almost immediately around the rings, reducing ring seal and horsepower. Several years ago, we witnessed this firsthand at the U.S. Nationals when John Lingenfelter's small-block-Chevy-powered Pro Stock truck suffered an internal water leak. Once the water mixed with the engine oil, the 9,000-rpm engine lost double-digit power, which cost him the race.
The ultimate seal with piston rings is assisted with engine oil. The highest friction loss in an engine is found between the rings and the cylinder wall. Quaker State's research indicates that a too-thin oil can actually vaporize at the top ring, sacrificing ring seal.
Fuel is another contaminant that is often found in engine oil. Fuel can enter the oil from several places, most commonly as blowby past the rings. Even though we think of fuel as easily evaporated, according to Farner only the light ends of fuel evaporate at room temperatures. The heavier ends require temperatures as high as 450 degrees F to fully evaporate, which means that even at 300-degree oil temperatures, there can still be residual fuel that tends to reduce your oil's effective performance.
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I would agree with this article and in my experience, when I tried PP on my last OCI, it was thicker having just come off the MC 5w-20 prior to the PP, the PP made my car feel 10 pounds heavier. Now that I am on M1 5w20 currently, it feels just as thin as the MC and the car has way better throttle response then the PP. I would agree that atleast for the cases of MC, PP and M1, thinner is better. For the record, MC gave me great perf and mileage with M1 coming in second although being a full syn, I will sacrifice a little for the sake of protection and varnish.
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I would agree with this article and in my experience, when I tried PP on my last OCI, it was thicker having just come off the MC 5w-20 prior to the PP, the PP made my car feel 10 pounds heavier. Now that I am on M1 5w20 currently, it feels just as thin as the MC and the car has way better throttle response then the PP. I would agree that atleast for the cases of MC, PP and M1, thinner is better. For the record, MC gave me great perf and mileage with M1 coming in second although being a full syn, I will sacrifice a little for the sake of protection and varnish.
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I would agree with this article and in my experience, when I tried PP on my last OCI, it was thicker having just come off the MC 5w-20 prior to the PP, the PP made my car feel 10 pounds heavier. Now that I am on M1 5w20 currently, it feels just as thin as the MC and the car has way better throttle response then the PP. I would agree
that atleast for the cases of MC, PP and M1, thinner is better. For the record, MC gave me great perf and mileage with M1 coming in second although being a full syn, I will sacrifice a little for the sake of protection and varnish.
Mobil 1 5w20:
cSt @ 40º C 48.3
cSt @ 100º C 8.8
Pennzoil Platinum 5w20:
cSt @ 40C 46.84
cSt @ 100C 8.48
Your car should "feel lighter" with the PP.
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I would agree with this article and in my experience, when I tried PP on my last OCI, it was thicker having just come off the MC 5w-20 prior to the PP, the PP made my car feel 10 pounds heavier.
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I would agree with this article and in my experience, when I tried PP on my last OCI, it was thicker having just come off the MC 5w-20 prior to the PP, the PP made my car feel 10 pounds heavier. Now that I am on M1 5w20 currently, it feels just as thin as the MC and the car has way better throttle response then the PP. I would agree
that atleast for the cases of MC, PP and M1, thinner is better. For the record, MC gave me great perf and mileage with M1 coming in second although being a full syn, I will sacrifice a little for the sake of protection and varnish.
Mobil 1 5w20:
cSt @ 40º C 48.3
cSt @ 100º C 8.8
Pennzoil Platinum 5w20:
cSt @ 40C 46.84
cSt @ 100C 8.48
Your car should "feel lighter" with the PP.
Well that is what happenned. The only variable is I was using the Japanese Toyo Roki oil filter which, being more sturdy as well as obligatory for my 'clean cycle', probably was more restrictive and increased oil pressure.
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Metal end caps versus cardboard plus other differences will make the JDM filter more restrictive
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"For street engines that do not suffer this kind of track-day abuse, merely pouring in a synthetic does not mean that you can radically extend service drain intervals. Petroleum-based oils do not lose their base lubrication characteristics, what does suffer with use are the additive packages added to the oil. Synthetics are no different"