Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: wsar10
It cant get a whole lot worse when you go to change plugs and end needing work done on the heads......what a [censored] poor design flaw.
True, but there are various extraction tools (like the Snap-On one) designed to get the bottom of the plug out once it breaks without you having to pull the head. Similar to when the 2V's launched plugs, originally you had to replace the head and eventually the Lock-N-Stitch kit happened which installs an fully threaded insert with nothing needing to be removed from the vehicle.
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Anyway we are purchasing the 06 in the below link pending a TC leak being fixed. We paid 9,900 and purchased a 3yr/38k mi warranty for an extra 1,800 bucks. It was a 2 owner and seems clean as a whistle.....NOW TO CHOOSE A GOOD OIL FOR THE MOTOR !!
http://www.familyautollc.net/vehicle.asp?d=14050000&s=F0960
Great choice! I'd advise M1 AFE 0w-20 if it calls for a 5w-20.
It specs a 5-30, I'm really trying to find an excuse to use T6....I have a few gallons of it and I have become a huge Rotella fan or else I always seem to end up with engine that Rotella works well in.
I was kinda thinking if it specs 30wt, that may shear to a 20wt...If I go 40wt HDEO it will never shear that low and do a good job maintaining higher oil pressure. Back to our TC conversation, it's my understanding that a huge part of the 4.0 issue was the tensioners which are hydraulic and spring held.........(unproven and just a theory)my thoughts were the reason for these failures could be one of two things.
1) the 4.0 does not have adequate oil pressure in ALL scenarios with 20-30wt oils.....allowing the tensioners to void away from the chains
2)people just dont change there oil properly or use dino oil for a synthetic OCI, in turn causing sludge to block the oil passages that set the tensioners
I know I can put about any synthetic in it and be set to go, but what works better is the debate.....