looking for oil recommendation, 2000 honda civic

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234000kms from a little 1.6L I think you are the envy of the new kms on the block.

Keep doing what you doing, don't get sucked in by the thinner is better, in this instance.

IMO you have your own testimony to guide youself and others.

In a 11 year vehcile you have done well.

I would stick with the 5w30 oil grade if that what the manual calls for your climate with the OEM approval for the year engine was made.
 
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Originally Posted By: virginoil

234000kms from a little 1.6L I think you are the envy of the new kms on the block.

Keep doing what you doing, don't get sucked in by the thin is best, in this instance.

IMO you have your own testimony to guide youself and others.

In a 11 year vehcile you have done well.

I would stick with the 5w30 oil grade if that what the manual calls for your climate with the OEM approval for the year engine was made.


If he chooses to go this route, I'd recommend Pennzoil Yellow Bottle with a PureONE/Wix(Napa Gold) oil filter. He could probably get away with 5k miles easily anyway even on dino with a setup like that, barring no serious engine problems affecting oil life.
 
sorry if I wasn't clear, it has 234k miles on it, not km. and I can only speak for the last 90k or so, I got it with about 140k on the clock
 
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
sorry if I wasn't clear, it has 234k miles on it, not km. and I can only speak for the last 90k or so, I got it with about 140k on the clock


234k miles translates to 376000kms this is greater evidence to support that you should or rather must, keep doing what you have been doing, no qestion IMO.

IMO it doesn't matter it has been only for the last 90000miles you have it for, cause it obviously suits the high mileage vehicle you purchased/inherited and no issues have occured based on your comments in your post.
 
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If you've been using a quality conventional then the main benefit of synthetic would be the ability to leave it in longer followed by better starting in the extreme cold.
 
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
I'm definitely interested in better cold starts, I don't particularly plan to push the oil change intervals


Curious, what is the normal/severe mileage intervals listed in your manual?
 
if I remember correctly, they are 3k/5k mi. but it's out in the car in the cold so I'm not quoting directly, just what I seem to recall. might be 5k/7.5k
 
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
the wife just checked the manual, 7.5k for normal, I'm assuming 5k for severe, assuming she read the right thing


Given that is the case, and with the improvement of oil since your car came out even 10 years ago, I'd recommend getting more out of your oil change and going 5k(or by 6 months). That way you save yourself some money and you personally go down in oil consumption. That, and your vehicle isn't harmed in any way.

IMO? Just get a quality oil filter and either continue to use what you have been(a conventional is fine for 5k), or choose to do 7.5k on a synthetic then have it sent in for UOA. Based on that, you could decide to go 10k+ or not based on the labs recommendation.

I doubt you have any sludge etc. but it wouldn't hurt to use something like MMO for a 'gentle' cleaning, added to your oil, for no more than 500 miles prior to an oil change, go with like 250 for fun or per the MMO bottle's instruction. Not sure about your civic, but some cars lose oil through the PCV valve and get oil splattered along the inside of the intake/head tops and that can affect performance, stop and starting.

I use something like Amsoil Power Foam(another is the Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner) to clean from the throttle plate down to the top of the head of your engine(which your oil doesn't clean and in fact possible has blow-by splattered etc)...
 
Originally Posted By: Thax
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Thax said:
CATERHAM said:
As far as the difference between a VI of 162 or 182 , his honda will never know the difference.

Even on a hot 100 degree day, the higher VI oil will still be 10% lighter on start-up. At room temperature it will be 15% lighter, 25% lighter at freezing (32F) and even more so at lower temp's.
That's the advantage of high VI 0W-XX oils.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Keep in mind a 20wt oil is what is now spec'd for your engine today so sticking with a lighter 30wt oil is all you need.


I have a 1997 Civic, which I believe uses the same motor as the 2000. Mine is the HX version which is a bit different. I didn't realize these engines were back-spec'd for 5w-20. I just put Castrol Edge 5w-30 in mine with a Purolator PureOne filter and it runs great.
 
Originally Posted By: virginoil

IMO it doesn't matter it has been only for the last 90000miles you have it for, cause it obviously suits the high mileage vehicle you purchased/inherited and no issues have occured based on your comments in your post.


it's true, the vehicle has been remarkably trouble free at least as far as the engine goes. I've had persistent trouble with the AC and some water leaks courtesy to shoddy body work the previous owner had done, but the engine just keeps on chugging
 
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
for the sake of discussion, my oil pressure always seems normal (at least according to the gauge in the instrument panel) and it consumes no oil

Well why didn't you say you had an OP gauge!!!
I didn't know they were standard on older Honda's.
Get the minimum OP spec's for your car. If your OP is "normal" as you say, you can likely run a light 0W-20 like the Honda Brand or Toyota's version or Castrol Edge 0W-20. These are the lightest oil at start-up on the market.
To optimize your oil viscosity the idea is to run the lightest oil possible with the oil as hot as it ever gets that still provides the minimum OP as specified by the manufacturer. In fact with an OP gauge you'll find that it is quite difficult to run an oil that is too light on the street.
 
I don't have a real oil pressure gauge, just the needle that seems like it's supposed to sit in the middle of the range (which it does). it has no calibrated readings on the gauge whatsoever; I couldn't tell you what my oil pressure is except that it's "normal" lol
 
KISS - whatever got you from 140k to 234k, just keep doing it.

A 200+K mile Honda 1.6 that DOESN'T burn oil - now that is a feat!
 
If you have 234,000 miles on your car and it doesn't burn oil, why even make this thread? Here's a suggestion, delete this one, make a new one where you give advice to people on what to use.

Seriously, that's impressive.
 
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
I don't have a real oil pressure gauge, just the needle that seems like it's supposed to sit in the middle of the range (which it does). it has no calibrated readings on the gauge whatsoever; I couldn't tell you what my oil pressure is except that it's "normal" lol

Does the needle respond to rpm changes? In other words when the engine is up to normal operating temperature, at least as far as the coolant temp's are concerned, does it rise at elevated rev's and drop on idle? Or does it stay in one fixed position when the engine is running?
 
heh I've been lucky enough to get hooked up with a dealer with a phenomenal service dept (Bill Marine Honda if you're in the Springfield-Dayton area). I know dealers are universally more expensive than independent shops for bigger repairs, but they will change the oil, top off the fluids and check the tires for the same price as the jiffy lube places. I imagine they've been putting in Honda 5w-30 oil. If I treat her right I have no doubt the engine will make it to 300k and still be running strong, thus this thread to make sure I'm not leaving undone something I could easily do. I don't have the funds to shell out for another vehicle right now but I can afford a few extra bucks on my oil changes if that's what it takes.
 
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